frederiekpascal

Trying another brand of PLA right now. ICE filaments it is now on the spool and so far so good. Printing for 4 hours with the same S3D settings as always. (a bit adjusted with the feedback from my beloved community people <3) Anyway, I will not buy any Ultimaker PLA for now anymore. Because I had troubles with several colours, not only with silver like many people. Currently printing : VR cover for a project with ICE PLA. Fingers crossed I'll succeed but so far so good, it looks great so far!

Yes same result, today my printer doesn't want to go further than the brim.... This was on 0.2 layerheight, 30mm/s and 210°C and retraction 1,00mm. But he didn't have the time to retract, it already failed before that

The start looks quite good to me... S3D doesn't use the firmware retractions, but generates it's own gcode sequences. Your best options: show us the retraction settings "play" with "Extra Restart Distance", "Coast" and "Wipe" slice it with Cura (just to eliminate a slicing problem) Edit: probably it's better to try this in reversed order...? Here they are gnome and cheers

I have the most recent version of the firmware and I'm using S3D indeed. (where's that forum for us btw? :p)

Update: I thought my precious was back up & running again but as soon as it starts retracting it goes terrible wrong :( I have no clue how to fix this Everything is almost replaced so...

Ok here we go with the promised photos. This is how I found my feeder when I arrived at my office... I did a few atomic pulls and these were the results. As promised, I replaced my teflon. This is how the teflon looked like. (@LePaul you see that it was in a not so bad condition right? ) And this is how my hot end and washer looked like. This is btw how my failed print looked like this morning : My teeth for @SandervG Not a very big blob but a little one today (for @gr5) and the grinded filament Teflon was replaced, adjusted my S3D settings again and the printer is printing right now again. Fingers crossed now and thanks a lot for taking care of my issues folks.

looks awesome are the STL's available?

It's brand new imo, they released it today?

yep I know, checked this several times. The l2k is in position.

ok @gr5, i'll replace my teflon Thursday, I got a few spares It's already one from 3Dsolex fyi. And, it's still as white as snow on the bottom but I'll replace it anyway. I got the day off tomorrow (UM2 is @ my office) so I'll post feedback on Thursday. (together with a picture of the atomic pulls & the blob at the end of the filament. Thanks again, greatly appreciated!

Yep it does make sense, thank you But it's a brand new bowden tube, I once cut the tube-end like this "/" so I won't do that again. When my tube is in the feeder & hot-end, I cannot move it at all.

well I won't be able to win cause my precious is out of service, but watch me (soon)

not sure, gr5 explained to me how to insert the tube correctly and I followed these steps very carefully.... Anyway loosen the 4 thumb screws maybe 4 turns, then just take the colored clip off, push down on the ring and pull up on the bowden (this is at the head) while looking at it from the front. Then push the bowden back in and watch it carefully - make sure it looks like it goes into the white part - it has a tiny ring that the bowden has to fit into. Lift on the ring while pushing down on the bowden and while holding the ring up tighten the 4 thumb screws. This last part is important as it makes the bowden a little tighter and helps the ring dig in also. At this point you shouldn't need the colored clip at all. The bowden should be secure and not move up and down if you tug gently. If not start over but loosen the 4 thumb screws a little more next time. Finally add the unnecessary colored clip.

no no this has nothing to do with temperature, I need brute force to pull the filament out because there is a blob at the end of the filament. The blob is bigger than the diameter of the bowden tube, that's why I need so much force to pull it out. The blob doesn't disappear with heating up the nozzle because it's located before it goes in the nozzle.

Hey Sander, I don't know exactly what you mean with workflow? But about your other questions, when a print fails the nozzle stops extruding and most of the time there is a blob a the end of my filament (where the teflon part is). And the printer starts printing in the air and the filament gets grinded more and more and breaks at the end. I tried 235°C but that doesn't seem to help. When the nozzle is hot I can pull the filament out (from the feeder). But it requires a lot of force but that's because of the blob at the end of the filament. I damaged my tube with pulling too hard but I replaced it already. When my printer would always fail after or before the brim, then it would be more easy to fix it imo. But sometimes it's printing 30 layers or a bit more even.

ow misread your message sorry, my reseller is 100km from here... Ultimaker headquarters is a few hunderd km from where I live And I didn't even knew you could knock on their door with your UM2 to fix it? You wouldn't be the first to try ;)But unfortunately our repair centre is not in our main office so that won't be helpful. Did any of this feedback in regard of your gcode mean anything? Did we ever see any of the teethmarks in your filament? Since the feeder, regardless of how awesome it is, is not stock Ultimaker, can we rule this out as a troublemaker? What happened with me after a while of using it, that sometimes the filament would get pushed of the bearing. Nope, I'll post a picture from the grinded filament tomorrow. I did read about the filament getting pushed of the bearing but that's not the case. I've double checked this several times. No feedback about my gcode yet but I changed it to 1300 mA instead of 1400 mA based on a post from gr5 here above.

I hope I get my precious back up&running soon, so I can participate! But for now I'm stuck with issues...

ow misread your message sorry, my reseller is 100km from here... Ultimaker headquarters is a few hunderd km from where I live And I didn't even knew you could knock on their door with your UM2 to fix it?

Not really nearby no, it's about 100 kilometres from here

Yeah it's an easy print with awesome results indeed. I got them in pair too

Yep yep, you can download it here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:498729

Okay, I changed the first line of the default start.gcode to : M907 E1300 ; increase extruder current instead of the default 1400... I have no clue why S3D is adding this to their default start code...

Nice @Shurik! My desk at work looks like a toy museum too (+10 objects are already in my desk, it was toooo much )

This is btw the default start.gcode : M907 E1400 ; increase extruder currentG28 ; home all axesG1 X20 Y10 F3000 ; bring extruder to frontG92 E0 ; zero the extruded lengthG1 Z10 ; lowerG1 E19 F200 ; purge nozzle quicklyG1 E26 F60 ; purge nozzle slowlyG92 E0 ; zero the extruded length againG1 E-5.5 F400 ; retractG1 X190 Z0 F9000 ; pull away filamentG1 X210 F9000 ; wipeG1 Y20 F9000 ; wipeG1 E0 ; feed filament back And this is the default end.gcode G28 X0 ; home the X-axisM104 S0 ; turn off heatersM140 S0 ; turn off bedM84 ; disable motors I never made changes to this code because I have no knowledge about gcode... Should I make changes to this gcodes to avoid my problems? If yes, then S3D should make changes to their default gcodes imo, because I'm not the only one who uses their default codes.... Thanks in advance

I didn't do anything, that's default code from S3D I guess... :( Should I change it to something else?