frederiekpascal

I second that, it took them almost 10 days to prepare their 11 words reply.

I finally received a reply from S3D support, I asked them why they added this line in the start.gcode and this is their answer : "I believe the 1400 was used in their previous start script." I have no clue if he's right or not, anyway the line is gone in my gcodes.

@Nallath, thanks, it's absolutely clear now

Okay I'll print the bowden version. Thanks for the tip @IRobertI! @Neotko : I checked the bearing and it was turning smoothly. I'll do more tests.

I had many of your issues with my UM2 too. What helped for me was printing a bit hotter and using another brand of PLA. Next up, you can install an Olsson block.

Wow that's an expensive solution... https://3dprintclean.myshopify.com/ I use this cover and this door but for me it's to filter the noise because me colleagues were complaining Still 200 euros for both upgrades but worth every euro imo. Works impressively good, I can say about 70% of all noise of the printer is gone. This is how it looks like with those upgrades :

I know, but I wanted to test if the spare knurled wheel made the same noise as my original one but the screw got stuck in the stepper motor :(

Ok will do, I got a spare knurled wheel but the screw in the original knurled wheel is stuck in it :( no clue how to get that screw out of it

Hey Sander Yep it's running great the past few days. Except for the weird noise... With "drive bolt" do you mean the knurled wheel of what exactly do you mean? thanks

Hey guys, As from today my feeder makes a weird noise.... I made a small clip for you all because I cannot describe this kind of noise. Anybody who knows what the reason for this "grinding noise" is?

Depends. If it stops extruding but keeps moving then it's not the USB issue. If it stops moving all axes for no good reason then suspect the USB. Ok, the axes never stopped moving imo But for now all looks perfect with the Colorfabb and ICE PLA. I'm going to try faberdashery PLA on spools soon, because too many people compliment that PLA.

Yes, the Raspberry Pi is directly connected to my UM2 and I upload the gcode with Octoprint. I think my files are located on the micro-SD from my Rasp. This also goes a lot faster than uploading it to the SD from my UM2. The Raspberry is only used for Octoprint for my UM2 and nothing else. Should I upload it remotely to the SD from my UM2 the next time?

agreed! And much more filters offered after the search results, now I get spanish threads from 2012 first etc etc. Never underestimate the value of a good search tool imo, especially on a forum!

Ow boy, today I found out that the runtime stats for "printing" don't go up when you print through USB. So I'm stuck at 766 print hours. Good thing to resell your printer in the future imo, only X hours printed sir!

can you post a few screenshots of you S3D settings?

oops nvm, didn't know it was in the dropbox link included, sorry

@Dim3nsioneer what's the link of that test file please? cheers

Yes, please try this. I always get nervous when people are having trouble with their printer and they're also using my feeder... I would feel really, really bad if it turns out that the feeder is the source of the problem. no no no no I had the same issues (even worse) with the standard filament feeder. Your feeder is much better because it gives me more control of my machine. Anyway I think many of my problems were cause by bad filament of Ultimaker. Also, I would like to see Ultimaker releasing : - a new and better metal fan shroud, take @labern as an example but only in metal - Robert's feeder - Olsson block (already done, good job UM ) My precious is printing for +20 hours right now and all seem to be ok. I'm using another brand of PLA now.

@Crcic You should give another fresh spool of PLA a try. I had so much troubles with some spools of PLA, you don't want to read that story . I always print between 20mm/s and 50mm/s, you can try to lower your print speed too and see how much it differs. Good luck, it's a true adventure!

Did you try to print the same model with normal PLA? You can try that to see how it's printed in PLA compared to your woodfill-trial Because, your model doesn't look like an easy one to print anyway. I followed the Colorfabb settings they recommended and my first test print in woodfill came out just fine. (a simple marvin though )

When I saw this from @gr5 : Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C I decided to throw this data in an excel file so I could figure out the temperatures for the other layer heights. This is what I came up with Great reference for me personally as a beginner. If you see any errors, let me know!

Google search is working better for this forum right now. They really should fix the search on this forum... @SandervG promised an improved search, what's the ETA of this feature anyway?

How are your experiences so far, do you like the software? I never looked back to Cura since I'm using S3D. I did receive a lot of help from this community to tweak my S3D though. (thnx @Neotko! )

http://www.octoprint.org

I wonder when something is a standard in your opinion?, all these sellers/manufacturers sell on 0.75 Kg spools... so I'd say in Europe at least this is the standard. innofil3d / fillamentum / ultimaker / formfutura / makerpoint / faberdashery Colorfabb does sell some of its material in 2.2 Kg spools for a significantly less price/Kg Is it possible to use Robert's low friction spool holder in combination with the 2.2 kg spools of Colorfabb?