frederiekpascal

Happy halloween Ultimakers! Here are my Colorfabb dutch orange PLA/PHA Jack-O-Lanterns. (I used this model, the big one was scaled 350%, other one 250%, 150% and the small one is 100%) All together +100 hours of printing and 120 meters of filament. The bottom of the big one is 50 meters. I bought some led tea lights to fit in. (in the big one there are 4 led tea lights) If I had more time I would have printed more but there are only 24 hours a day. The result is awesome! Thanks Ultimaker!

$127 pledged of $8,200 goal, still a long way to go Anyway, selling others their design is pretty low indeed. Though, I like his cause a lot. (I hope it's true) : My goal is to try and make medical parts for disabled animals. I have a few animal shelters around my area and they put down disabled animal with in a few weeks if they are not adopted. My idea is to make the missing parts for the animals at my shelters so they are more likey to be adopted by a loving family.All my extra money after I make the rewards will be going to the shelters around my area to help take care of the animals whether it be spay or neuter spay/neuter or even to buy extra food/toys for the animals.

The support handling in Simplify3D made me decide to buy the software. And it's worth it!

I've been using Simplify3D intense for 1 month now. And nothing but good points about the software for me. What I like the most is the way the support is organised. I really like to add manually support instead of Cura adding it all over the model. Simplify3D had a steap learn curve for me cause many elements in Simplify3D have another name or way it's calculated compared to Cura. But I've not using Cura since I bought Simplify3D. What s*x the most is their forum and support is not as great as here. So I'm mostly on my own to discover all the features. Their tutorials are ok but there aren't that many of them yet. The few tips I've read from @neotko were a great help to get me on the rails with Simplify3D. I would recommend Simplify3D to others.

To be honest, I like the current tool together with the torque wrench. When my nozzle falls in the deep socket, I just take it out with a pincet.

I'm still too new with 3D printing to know if their theory is correct or not. But, Colorfabb claims that my filament stayed too long in the hot end of my UM2. They gave me this theory (I've translated it) With normal settings you have an average of 0.2 (layerheight) x0.4 (nozzle) x50 (speed)= 4 mm3/s output. With your settings your are on 0,08x0,4x30= 0,96 mm3/s. We think because of your very slow print speed and extremely thin layers, the material stays too long in the hot-end and making it extremely liquid. So my question to you guys, I was already on 195°C... Should I go even lower to avoid the flooded filament problems? Their theory sounds reasonable to me, but I don't understand why you can't print that slow on 0.06 layer height. I though it was the slower you go, the higher quality you'll receive in return? Thanks for your answers, I want to avoid this for the 3rd time...

These are your answers @SandervG : If it would ever happen again, could you take a picture of what your printhead looks like before you start taking it apart? --> will do! At the bottom of your nozzle, do you have this small teflon ring sealing of any openings? --> do you mean this small ring? If yes, I don't use it anymore with my Olsson block installed. It is weird that there is filament in the PTFE, but I can see how that could happen. But on the spring? Did it get on the spring when you took everything out and it got extra messy? --> that's possible, I don't remember that... but the 2nd time it was only on the PTFE, that I'm sure. If your bowden tube is correctly in its place, how strongly is it secured? Is there any movement in it at all or completely still? --> The 1st time I didn't check it so I don't know. But the 2nd time it happened imo the tube was perfectly in place and completely still. (it was the new one, I changed it the 1st and 2nd time it happened). What was kinda strange is that the Colorfabb PLA was still soft like a chewing gum and that after many hours staying in the tube. I don't know if that's normal but other PLA normally hardens quite fast and this PLA stayed soft. Or is this typical for Colorfabb PLA/PHA? I asked Colorfabb for support, I'll keep you posted on their feedback. Thanks for helping me!

I had the same problem again this weekend, with the same spool of colorfabb standard white PLA/PHA... Again a bowden tube for the dumpster. The first time it was possible the bowden tube was not inserted perfectly like @gr5 mentioned. (I'm not sure about this cause I didn't check it when I took out the flooded tube) but the second time this happened I'm 100% sure the bowden tube was inserted perfectly. This is probably a bad spool of Colorfabb filament I would guess? It's very suspicious this is happening twice with the same filament right? Cause all my other spools are working perfectly. (Ultimaker PLA and other Colorfabb colours) To summarise what happened again. My printhead was flooded with filament like soft chewing gum around the bowden tube on the side of the heatblock and the teflon coupler was like the picture above again. As a result the filament feeder was also grinded with filament too. I have no clue what went wrong, I printed on 30mm/sec, layer 0.08 and temperature 195°. 195° on 30mm/sec isn't too low for the more soft Colorfabb PLA/PHA right? These settings work great with other filaments, only this white one costed my 2 bowden tubes and 2 teflons... (I'll try to clean the teflons with boiling water like @gr5 is saying, will keep you posted how this turns out) I showed this thread to Colorfabb, I hope they will compensate it cause this spool is becoming very expensive. Anybody who can help me out? Could a moderator please move my thread to Forum Hardware Troubleshooting & Maintenance? Posted this in the wrong forum. :s

May I ask why your flow is on 110% and why your temperature is on 220°? I got the same configuration as you (UM2 with Olsson) and I'm printing perfectly with a normal flow of 100% and a temperature of 200°C max for 40mm/s with Colorfabb PLA/PHA ... On a speed of 30mm/s I'm printing on 195°... Just wondering

May I ask why your flow is on 110% and why your temperature is on 220°? I got the same configuration as you (UM2 with Olsson) and I'm printing perfectly with a normal flow of 100% and a temperature of 200°C max for 40mm/s... On a speed of 30mm/s I'm printing on 195°... Just wondering

Very interesting read, thanks for sharing. You should give this spool holder a try. It works wonderful on my UM2, I love it. Also, you did many upgrades to your machine to improve the performance and reliability like you said, for that I don't understand why you didn't give the Olsson block a try. I bought some E3D nozzles to fit in the block and now a dirty clogged nozzle goes right in the dumpster and a new one is on in 30 seconds. Also the feature to be able to use hardened steel nozzles and other sizes-nozzles to experiment even more with your machine and different filaments. I was also thinking about changing my fan shroud and the filament feeder but read as much positive as negative experiences from users with those 2 upgrades that I'm skipping these upgrades for now.

I bought my UM2 in August and these are my current stats : Yes, I love 3D printing

I cancelled it in the middle and I'm printing it again now, with 195°C and 30mm/s from the start Tomorrow it will be finished, I'll post pictures from attempt 5

and probably for that reason, the bottom layers of my print looked like this... I changed my settings now

That I didn't know, thanks a lot for the great tip! Cause I was playing around with the temps like this : layer 1 : 210° from layer 10 : 205° from layer 20 : 200° from layer 30 : 195° and I was seeing ugly results on the bottom layers.... printing Colorfabb PLA again now on 30mm/s with 195° from the start

about the temperature... do you start right away with 195°C after a few layers or do you wait a bit longer before lowering the temperature?

mijn fan shroud ga ik nog switchen waarschijnlijk, maar ik heb hem voor nu een klein beetje gebogen zodat hij mijn heatblock niet raakt momenteel

I sliced the model again in Cura 15.04.2 to check if this will work out.

this setting is default on 0.02, you want me to change it to 0.45? that's a huge difference to the default settings isn't it?

it's already only on 30mm/sec, lower it to how much?

Hier op deze url kun je al eens kijken of het voor jou doenbaar is om zelf een Olsson block te monteren : http://www.ideato3d.be/tutoriels/how-to-install-the-olsson-block-on-an-ultimaker-2/ Ikzelf heb ook 2 linkerhanden en ben er toch makkelijk in geslaagd om het ding te installeren en werkend te krijgen. (mijn sensor was ook stuk en die moest ik ook vervangen, dit was ietsje meer werk dan voorzien) Ivm de nozzles, ik heb nog geen andere nozzle dan de standaardmaat 0.4 opgedraaid, ik heb ze wel allemaal liggen maar hou dit soort zaken allemaal voor een fase 2 voor mezelf Het is nu al complex genoeg met "simpele" PLA, er zijn al voldoende factoren om rekening mee te houden dat de nozzles en abrasive materialen voor later zullen zijn voor mij persoonlijk Het grote voordeel aan de Olsson block is dat je ook centen bespaart als je nozzle versleten is, bij een standaard UM2 out-of-the-box moet je steeds de heaterblock en zo vervangen en hoogstwaarschijnlijk ook de temp sensor. (=+/- 85 euro = https://shop.ultimaker.com/product/61/Hot-end-pack ) Niet dat je dit maandelijks zult moeten doen met PLA maar met andere materialen gaat je nozzle snel versleten zijn... Nu koop ik nozzles op deze site die ik door meerdere mensen heb aangeraden gekregen : http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles/v6-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.40mm (dit is de standaardmaat) en kosten ze slechts 7 euro, voor die prijs ga je echt niet met een gasbrander liggen een nozzle schoonmaken. Ik heb er direct een zakje gekocht en kan voor even verder nu.

that's the reason of the fail prints imo, how do I solve this?

Yep is maar een paar minuten max werk om je nozzle te vervangen. Een nozzle kun je niet printen trouwens Ik ben ook nog maar een paar maanden bezig en mijn woodfill, copperfill en carbon liggen klaar maar daar wacht ik nog even mee. Die filamenten zijn toch voor meer ervaren personen denk ik

awesome, thanks a lot @neotko!