DaHai8

One way to add a profile is to modify an existing one then click on the Profile drop-down and select "Create profile from current settings..." (that option isn't enabled until you change something in the current profile) Hope this helps.

From what I understand, there can be issues with running Cura 2.1 with newer versions of Cura - then tend not to like each other. Basically because some file formats where changed between those releases to make way for enhanced features. So if you are trying to run both versions on one PC, I don't recommend it. To see if this is the issue, you can rename the Cura folder located here to something like 'cura 2.1': C:\Users\[YourUsername]\AppData\Local\cura Then start Cura 2.3.1 and see if it runs. NOTE: It will be much like starting Cura fresh as many of your changes won't be there anymore (they are kept in that 'cura' folder above that you renamed. If that doesn't work, or you don't like starting fresh all over again, quite Cura 2.3.1 and rename the 'cura 2.1' folder back to just 'cura' as it was before and then you can run Cura 2.1 just as before.

The log file is not in that folder. You can find it here: C:\Users\[YourUsername]\AppData\Local\cura I'm thinking you are running 64-bit Windows because you have 'Program Files(x86)' which is for apps that are not 64-bit compatible. I highly recommend that you install the 64-bit version of Cura if you are running 64-bit Windows.

Alrighty, here we go: "value": "6 if machine_type == 'A' else (3 if machine_type == 'B' else 9)" Now, following this pattern, I believe additional logic would be nested like so: "value": "6 if machine_type == 'A' else (3 if machine_type == 'B' else (4 if machine_type == 'C' else 9))" And that does work in testing with Cura 2.3.0... So, with each additional 'if' logic, you'd need another level of nested parens P.S. Forgot to mention: It appears every IF must have an ELSE. The Default value does not take effect if the IF fails.

Should be under: Extensions / Post Processing / Modify G-Code

Hi. I've been lurking and following this thread. From what I'm understanding, shouldn't this be: "value": "6 if machine_type == \"A\"" I also sent you a PM (just saw yours - sorry). Maybe I can help...

So this setting does nothing? (Cura 2.3.1): I thought that was what it was for (at least that's what the help text says...)

No, this is incorrect. Specifying a .39mm nozzle (even though its .4mm) and printing a wall .4mm thick will work and it come out significantly less that .8mm. I already demonstrated this to you in this thread: Cura 2.3 (same on 1.5.4) slicing / printing tapered edge issues I'm surprised you're still pushing this. Also, as geert_2 recommends, you can print .5mm object with a .4mm nozzle. And it does not thicken it to .8mm. I do this a lot with hot-end cooling ducts to reduce weight. Try it yourself. Get some calipers and print some .4mm - .5mm walls.

If any support, or part of the support, is narrower (or equal) to your nozzle size, Cura will have difficulty slicing it (ie: it won't - reliably) Try X-Ray view in Cura to see if there are any Red areas. These are issues with the model and can prevent it from slicing properly

It will be interesting to see your results of your timing against the Cura estimate. The thing to note is that printing 3x faster isn't going to result in printing in 1/3 of the time. I can change the print speed in Cura and all the other Speed settings, and the estimate print time does go down but not a lot as there are other factors that affect the time as well: Jerk Acceleration First Layer Print Speeds Retraction Distance and Speed Combing Rafts, Brims, Supports, etc. Z-movements If the Cura estimates are way off from the actual print times (> +-10%), take a close look at Jerk and Accelerations settings in your printer compared to those in Cura. Matching those up will help close that time gap.

berndjm: You nailed it! Just thinking it would be nice to have a Star on the category containing the alternations Bad Cold + Benadryl + Whisky = Goofy post. Sorry

No, not Babs. You know how when you change a setting in your Profile, it puts a 'Star' by its name in the Profile Drop-Down? (I'm talking Cura 2.x.x.x.x.x.x.... here. No, really, that's what it does. Honest..... Anywho. I do that a lot (change settings in my 'Master' profile. Then goof around and do some other things only to come back days, or hours, minutes, or even Seconds later (yes, I have a short-term memory issue)... Hmmm....what was I talking about??? Oh, yeah! That Star! So, I forget what I changed and I have to open and scroll through each setting to find what I made different (one of this things is just not the same...) and set it back. Well, hell, that could take seconds! Or even Minutes!! OMG!! Time is precious and I could go at any minute! (Probably not, but you never know when that plane it going to crash into your house like on The World According to Garp (just saying..)) So it would be like, ya-know, really cool(ish) if Cura magically put an 'Star" next to the Top-Level setting name (Quality, Shell, Infill, etc.etc.etc.yada yada yada...) where that hidden change... 'hides' ...so you could quickly find it and set it back before it mutates into some super interstellar mutant virus from space! Earth would be saved as with all humanity! You would be Gods! (Or Legends ... of Tomorrow) Ok, back to my Benadryl and Whisky... Tata... P.S. Oh Geez! I just noticed I've been on this Board for a Whole Year!! (Got my 1 Year Trophy) That went fast...look at all my WRINKLES!!! Probably time to shave...

It's somewhere in between: Not quite a single wall, but definitely not two walls. I had made some test strips a few months back to check different colored filaments and their translucency at various thicknesses: .4mm, .8mm, 1.2mm, 1.6mm, 2mm And here are the results when printing with the nozzle size set to .39mm, single wall, 100% infill: .4mm = .53mm .8mm = .88mm 1.2mm = 1.25mm 1.6mm = 1.68mm 2mm = 2.08mm

The only filament color I've found so far that doesn't show anything from the underlying layer @ .2mm is Black (PLA. Never printed with ABS) Green, Red, Gray, Gold, Brown, Blue all show through the first layer. Of course the lighter colors really show through: Yellow, White, Pink, all the translucents, tan/skin, etc.

Wait, what, huh??? I print single width walls all the time in Cura (.4mm walls with a .4mm nozzle). Ok, maybe not 'all' the time, but I have done it. Just set your Wall Thickness to .4mm and 100% infill and set your nozzle to .39mm. You'll get at least a .4mm edge on your cookie cutters. P.S. Hope your printing in PLA, 'cause I'm not sure you'd want to have bits of ABS in your cookie dough (not that PLA is entirely edible either...)

I've seen the same behavior, and reported on it here as well a few months back. But I've come to understand there are valid arguments for it either way: 1) Only retracting on the outermost top/bottom layer would decrease print times and make sense for highly dense filament/colors as trails left on underlying layers would not be visible. 2) Retracting on all top/bottom layers (not infill) makes sense for semi-opaque/translucent filament/colors as any trails left would show through and mar an otherwise perfect top/bottom outermost later. An option to select either behavior might be nice.

My raft settings are slightly different than yours, but I'm not getting that bleed-through like you are. Mine look OK

什么时候？

I'm using Cura 2.3.0 (Release) and not having that Raft issue with your latest model. .2mm Layer Height... Not sure what's going on. Maybe is a bug in 2.3.1 (but not in 2.3.0)???

Yes, and no. The resolution of the raft is limited by your Layer Height setting. If you set your Layer Height to .1 (from the default .2), then it can compensate for that one area that sits slightly below (~.1mm) the rest of the base and supports everywhere else.

There is a "Pause at Height" plugin in Cura 2.3.x Extensions / Post Processing / Modify G-Code / Add a script / Pause at height Does that not work on UMx printers?

Your model's base is not flat: Move the model's Z position down -.1mm and it will cut that bump off and slice properly.

Looks much better! How do the sides and the top look? Glad you're making progrees.

You don't necessarily need to remove the nozzle for the extruder test - only if you don't want to 'waste' filament. Personally, 100mm of filament used to ensure the extruder is properly calibrated is not a waste to me. Have you posted your issues on the RepRap forurm? There might be someone there with more experience with the Monoprice Maker Select: RepRap Forums Or contact the seller/manufacturer. Maybe a defective part? Have you tried other filaments? Maybe you got a bad roll... I've not had to set a z endstop on my printer, so I'm not even sure what/where to do that. Your filament is extruding much to wide for a .4mm nozzle. Either your extruder is not calibrated correctly, or you really do have a .5mm nozzle. My .4mm nozzle extrudes at .41mm I'm running out of ideas :(

Also...just as a sanity check: Check all your wires and connections to make sure they are solid and firmly in place. It's quicker and easier than running through those Calibrations and may turn up something amiss...