kmanstudios
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3D Prints
Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Hello and welcome to the forums.
The first thing to remember is that this is not precision printing as it is melted plastic, pushed through a tiny tube and the squished a bit into the buildplate and then lyered. Depending on a few things, this can present pulling of materials and such.
You can play with temps and speeds and carry out measurements. Also, while doing that, you may develop a feel for what tolerances you have to work with. Especially with fitting parts and their tightness or looseness. Start with very small objects that print quickly and do not use a lot of filament.
There are a few people here who are very knowledgeable about this and can give a more concise answer, but temps and speed is where I would start. Maybe a bit slower to reduce the material being pulled about as it makes teeny circles.
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Would be nice if the ETOPO1 data set was a true height-field map and not a colored map. Or is there something I missed? I looked it up, but may have missed something.
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Bots suck......
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1 hour ago, geert_2 said:
That is a really nice model. Where did you get that?......
LOL....I had to go a'huntin' fer meself...LOL You do a general search and find a lot of variations at almost all download sites.
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32 minutes ago, yellowshark said:
Trying to keep track of 70+ is difficult. (lol that is probably 90+ now)
That is what you get for being the prom King (Queen)
....(yellowshark is very non-gender specific, so, hopefully, no umbrage created there)
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I am glad to hear the top worked out well.
You mentioned that you could not figure how to use just one print core. By default, when you put in a model(s), it will automatically select print core one. you have to tell it to use print core two either for a second AA core (Second color, usually) or the default BB core (PVA only).
Did your Cura do otherwise? That is a nice model though
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That 'spitting' may be due to humidity in the filament boiling out tiny bubbles. Do you hear crackling and popping while printing? Also may need a good nozzle cleaning.
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6 minutes ago, yellowshark said:
Hi @SandervG I have just noticed that if you select the option to "view all notifications" then the list that is redisplayed DOES show the difference in colour between viewed notifications and non-viewed notifications, so that is good
- just as well as my notification queue is now up to 77 entries
How does that get cleared out? Is there a time stamp to delete those notifications or do they just keep piling up? Is there a way to manually clear them once read? Seems that eventually, that would bog things down a bit.
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Tolerances can be a funny thing as it can also be material dependent and even brand dependent. But, I do agree that it would not be a Solidworks issue considering it is an engineering level design and manufacturing product and proven in many industries.
FFM/FDM is not the same as injection molding for repeated accuracy.
I am just now finishing a project that:
- Tolerances actually changed when I changed materials.
- designed the tolerances wonderfully when raw plastic but too tight when paint applied thus causing the paint to scratch when parts slid past each other.
- Am finishing the project using one type of material and brand also to keep differences from creeping in.
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If it is ferro magnetic, it has to be abrasive as heck. And metal fills present their own challenges. under extrusion is also a problem as the heat transfers faster and higher up the filament and can cause clogs that cause it to have difficulty passing the filament through.
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5 minutes ago, rajilpahuja said:
@gr5 i just saw the prices of the cores, i am just guessing its better to just buy the UMO, its cheap in seconds and technically safer for gianni, however its upto him to do as he wishes, but i wouldnt risk a um3 as that is more expensive to spoil
I am with you there as I am not sure the components in a UM3 are capable of such temps. Until UM says so, I am agreeing that this would be the way to go.
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An easy thing to try is to cut your print temp back to say 195° - 197° C. It seems little, but I have had that make a world of difference and sometimes a bit of speed reduction to go with the temp. But not always. Retractions I am not that expert about at all though, so that would require a much more experienced person than myself.
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29 minutes ago, nilrog said:
That warning only came the first time. I'm home safe now......
I saw that bit in the right side blurbs and immediately went into WTF happened, with all the crap that has been going on around the world.
Then, I saw the rest and laughed at me silliness LOL
My daughter calls me 'grandma' sometimes......
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15 minutes ago, chhu79 said:
Hmm, maybe you are right, but I am not entirely convinced that it is an overhang issue. I'll let it print and will post a picture again tomorrow evening. If you are right the upper hemisphere should look fine. The Makerbot Z18 had no (big) problems with the overhang but had of course many other faults... I'll keep you updated!
Best,
Chris
One aspect to keep in mind when comparing things is to not use a false equivalency. In this instance, unless you printed the same model at the same size (Though not the same settings as that would need to vary) you really cannot compare the two machines.
But, If you look at your pic, you will see that the strings are the worst at the most parallel part of the model to the build plate and progressively diminish as it becomes more perpendicular to the build plate.
Adding to that, the raised geographical areas with teeny weeny lil' points is the point of most contention.
I would like to see the final print. Especially at the top when the inverse issue is at hand: the top parts that become more parallel to the buildplate will want to sink into the surace opposite of wanting to hang from the surface as on bottom.
I can generally get a clean 65° underside of an overhang with no issues. Anything more than that and it starts to get messy on bottom. I have gotten a clean top at 85° overhang, but an atrocious underside. I found this by printing overhang tests from around the interwebby.
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Although it may be a generic problem, specifics can be a factor. Such as:
1. What printer
2. What materials
3. What settings are you using?
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I am not sure what sort of algorithms they are using to detect edges/vertices intersecting with the buildplate or if they tweak it between versions, or if some other code is creating a disturbance in the printforce. But I find it is a bit of a hit or miss situation. It definitely could use a bit of improvement. I am ultra anal about pivot points and 0 Zed locations of surfaces. My 3D packages do not work in math, but pure mesh generation, so, If I put something at 0 Zed, then it should stay at 0 Zed and not sink or float. Not always off, but enough to be annoying.
Edit: Just occurred to me that they may be using a bounding surface to generate the collision detection and that could be why it is a bit sloppy. It may not be true edge detection after all.
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7 minutes ago, Ziogianni84 said:
What about the Engineering High Temp (EHT) upgrade for Hardcore announced on the 3D Solex website?
That I would not be sure about. I would have to research to find out....But you would still have the buildplate issues.
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I just tried some really, really cool paint. May be worth looking into. It is an automotive paint, but it really does well on PLA. And, if you are using flat colors, this would be perfect as it has a unique color sheen and is glossy.
Really cool stuff.....It is Dupli-Color Metal Cast Anodized paints. Make sure you get the base ground color as the anodized colors are transparent and allow the aluminum paint show through.
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ahhhh, mine is digital.....which in a way sucks for precision.
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20 minutes ago, nzo said:
Clicking on the email link from Ultimaker results in an error 2S136/C
Phew...I am not the only one with an error......
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Heat will be the issue as the UM3 does not have the build plate temp or the nozzle temp, even with hardened nozzles.
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That is sweet.
I like the metal look it seems to have too. 
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3 hours ago, gr5 said:
Is the filament stuck in the UM core or the hardcore? Is it stuck when trying to remove the filament or only when printing or both? Which way are you *certain* is stuck and which way do you think might also be stuck? If it's stuck in the core how did you get the core out of the print head?
It sounds like you are describing a new problem just discovered with a few hardcores. The solution is pretty simple if it is the issue I'm thinking about. Also did you buy direct from 3dsolex or from a reseller and if so which reseller?
Could you be specific as to the issues discovered as I wonder if that is what happened to me with the copperfill I was using.
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It all has to do with how the program that generated the model and Cura interact concerning pivot points, I believe. It also may have to do with how the program is generating the geometry and then interpolating out to mesh if it using math instead of mesh for generation purposes.
....(
- just as well as my notification queue is now up to 77 entries
dimension problems UM3XTD
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Would not have known that....my apologies for not reading your mind and forcing you to go all caps on me. I hang my head in shame....I shall endeavor to persevere.