kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Thanks for the info. I have the tamper proof door and custom cut PEI sheet coming for my printer so those will help mitigate many adhesion/temp differential issues. I was hopeful that I could use PVA with PC. After being told PVA wouldn't work with PC or PET based materials due to printing temp differences. I was a bit disappointed since I got Polymaker Poly Plus cheap for Black Friday and would love to use nGen as a general purpose material. Supports would be great.
I do agree that geometry will have a lot to do with it. Your prints have a lot of surface contact. Flats will also likely be fine. It's going to be the more intricate things PC isn't exactly supposed to be used for that will be the true test.
Not everything I have is flat or large geometry. I do have some spindly things I have to futz with to get them to print correctly. This usually has more to do with putting multiples on the buildplate and turning them in different orientations to see what works. I also do try to minimize contact.
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Won't this type of cracking be eliminated in the "furnace" of the hotend?
That is a good question, but it may be that the material itself does not actually regain its original composition/qualities once it has aged.
I do not know enough about material sciences to answer that. It would be nice if one of the Team Ultimaker guys could give us some feedback on this.
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I cannot say about the leveling issue, but the other two issues could easily be the result of the move. Not so much damage as more like a torsion pull on parts that may have slightly pulled a cable to two loose. The frame is flexible and can twist and pull a bit.
Also, I have not moved or damaged my printer, been printing along merrily and I have had the "detected movement outside of print volume..." error twice in the last month with the latest firmware upgrade. I have also seen the error reported in other threads by people who upgraded. Not sure of the specifics.
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This is shape memory at work. The same function of the filament being more difficult to push through the bowden tube as you get to the much more tightly coiled end of a spool rather than the larger diameter of the outer parts of the roll when new.Is it spooled while still warm, and then cools? Or spooled cold, but the crystal structure takes some time to change from amorphe (more flexible) to crystaline (harder and more brittle), so it is wound while still in the more flexible phase, and then it hardens while already wound, and gets fixed in that bent shape?If you take a fresh spool, and print the heck out of it, you will still get some resistance at the end of the spool. Age of the filament only worsens the effect.
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You should have received a print made form the printer when you got it. That would show that the nozzles worked at least at the reseller's location.
The second thing is if the material is inserted all the way through the core.
One thing you can do is to remove the bowden tube from the nozzles and do a hot pull or cold pull. You could also try to make sure that material flows through it by pushing some filament through. Just make sure the printhead is in a corner so that it gets maximum support and you do not bend the axis rods.
Here is a link to specifics. Also, if you do not have any cleaning rods, it can be done with PLA in both the AA and BB cores. I am assuming that is what you have on hand since it is brand new and that comes standard with the printer. If you have put ABS or another hard material through it, you will have to go to higher temps and such.
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Hi kman. How are your bronze/copper filament experiments going? Have you been able to solve the problems you were having?
Nope, had to get on a production model for a client and that has taken the last 4 days to print out parts and get them ready to assemble. And, I designed a lamp for them as well.
Will be hoping on that soon. I have to solve an issue with my hardcore nozzle. I think a piece of copper is stuck in it preventing proper flow. But, as soon as I get past this basic model for the client I am back onto the metal fills.
I gotta get onto the Christmas gifts for kids and grandkids......
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short answer - printed part won't be brittle. I've heard some people say it has to do with "micro fractures". Also when the filament gets brittle it's only the 1 meter or so that has been straightened. Something about straightening filament and holding it in that position for 10 hours makes it very brittle.
Maybe doing that without heat causes the plastic to 'violate' its shape memory?
It is probably spooled warm. And when it cools, that makes one side longer than the other by virtue of the cylindrical shape and that is the condition the polymers remember once cooled. Pulling it straight and keeping it that way (or not the same coiled shape would be more accurate) causes it to pull on one side and stretch on the other without being heated and made malleable.
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Also, be aware that you will have to do some post processing to get them to that level of smoothness and polish.
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the short answer is yes. The modifier would be that anything above 2 colors requires planning and assembly.
But, I have engineered a lot of things that are done in parts and then assembled for the result you have shown.
And, yeah, not easy to read your post. Grammar is your friend.
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Yes, I got the PVA to work with the PC. But keep in mind that it may just be the type of geometry in use. And, a couple of times, it would just peel up if there was a rush of cold into the area.You were able to get PVA supports to work well with PC? I was wondering if more were possible than the materials chart implies. I just got some Polymaker Poly-Max to try out. I kind of question the CPE vs. CPE+ as well considering PVA support from E3D states it works with Colorfabb nGen which is also a PET based co-polymer like CPE/CPE+
For instance, I had a print on today that was doing fine when I left. It has been getting colder here in Brooklyn but dry as well. So, I have been cracking the door to let in fresh air. I live in a basement apartment (Which I do love btw) so, cracking windows is not an option.
When I returned home from an appointment, it had warmed in the apartment. As soon as I came in opened the door and cracked it slightly, the sudden heat differential made a long piece warp enough that I had to abort the print. I know this to be as I had seen how well it was printing before the cooler air reached the print.
I also had to go to a PC Brim on One object because it just would not stay on the plate in one place. I think I found the issue (I made the part too thin and the PVA on top of it would pull as it cooled...so, user error) but am still printing with PC Brim.
I am hoping to post further about this with pics once the project is done since I did a few nifty things like the PVA supports, but also because I did a print, pause, fill with weights, and let print finish to enclose weights.
But, I do know it does not always work with the PVA.
Here are two pics of dolphins I printed in black PC that used PVA as a support:
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I am printing out a production model right now (2 more days...ugh....) but as soon as that is finished, I will be hopping on this
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How old is your firmware?
Haha no idea, how do I find out? (srsly)
Anyway, regardless of the firmware version, I need to know how to reconcile the y-zero in S3D with the y-zero in the UM2..
Follow the links young padawan......
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I look forward to the changes that can come
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I sit corrected.......
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Which printer? If you put the printer in your profile or description in post, it makes it easier to diagnose what to do to help.
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Well, if it ain't been fun LOL
OK....I see some posts every now and then about materials not behaving. Well, what behaves in one scenario will not always hold true. There are many factors that can play into things:
- Environmental Changes
- Batch differences
- How one printer handles varying brands of the 'same' material
- Possible material 'recipe' changes over time
I have been working on an articulating model for a client that I did some animation for. I prototyped in PLA because I gots boat loads of the stuff.
I switched over to PC to make my final product for strength purposes. I am using Ultimaker Black PC.
Now, I did not expect the PLA and PC to have the same tolerances on the side of printing, so this is really about the differences between the PC I printed with before and the PC I have now. I purchased this PC material a few months ago and am just now getting back to using PC.
I am also using the print cluster software, even though I am on one printer. Why? Because I can stack jobs of a like kind and just have to be there for when the print is finished to change plates, clean, apply Papa K's Magical Slurry Sauce for stickum and then override the controls to accept the chosen material. I am having to do this even though I have Ultimaker PC. I am thinking I got a batch of PC that did not have the NFC chip on it. It has been dry in NYC and I left my PLA loaded in the polybox and just hung the PC on the spool as designed. Still did not see the PC and had to choose generic.
No pops or crackles so the filament is dry. PVA is working well with it too. But, I did have to make a few adjustments on the presets in Cura for the PC settings.
I found that the default temp of 107°C was just too much. It really cooked the Slurry Sauce onto the buildplate as well as virtually cemented the PC to the glass....for the most part....
And I was getting some stringing. Please note that I am using a front cover to keep the heat in.
So, I had read in another thread about how the buildplate heat can keep the material too soft and allow for warping. I was getting a tiny bit of warping on a few odd places.
So, I took the buildplate temp down to 100°C for the first layer and then 95°C from that point on. 90°C and then 80°C was too cold and it would not stick to the plate. It now releases the parts much easier from the buildplate as well as allows the Slurry Sauce to not get cooked so hard. I mean I was having to soak things for hours just to get them to loosen a bit and sometimes, run very warm water over the buildplate for about an hour just to get parts off and finally get off the thin film of Slurry Sauce. I did manage to also put some really bad dings in two of my buildplates (Pitting the glass with large gouges) and this has not happened since the cutback on buildplate temp.
Also, I finally wound up with a material setting of 257°C for my Default printing temp and allowed Cura to figure all the rest of the temp settings from there. I had to bounce around a bit to get the right temp.
250° was too cold and did not want to lay down right, even when slowing the printing way down.
260° was still a bit stringy. That 3° made all the difference in the world.
Now, I am having no warping and no hassles getting my pieces off the buildplate. I am using a PVA brim, the Slurry Sauce is PVA based and using PVA supports. I am getting clean prints (With this type of design anyway) and other than printing at 0.1mm/100µ and the time it takes, all is now going well.
I also had to create a counter weight in one of the pieces because when the crane boom extends, it was throwing the model out of balance. That was fun as I just made a hollow in the model, printed to a point above the nuts I was using for weights, squished some glue into the hole and dropped the nuts in and allowed it to finish the print above it.
- Environmental Changes
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Looking at the first image, I would guess that the walls that go missing are just single walls and are therefore not manifold.
You can try to check "Print thin walls" in the latest version of Cura and see if that works. But the model should be redone and keep gr5's dimensions in mind.
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Yeah, like that's fun!
I think it would be really neat if Ultimaker ran some sales/discounts every now and then!
A lot of resellers are doing that.
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This will be interesting to see. :)I look forward to your results.
Are you just heating raw filament or actual prints?
I know people have annealed PLA in ovens after printing. You can google it and get some results on that.
Matter of fact..I just looked.
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Numeric inputs for all translations would be really nice as Thomllama said, but also an orthographic view so that placement of objects is not reliant on the on-board perspective views.
If I had my choice, numeric input would be tops. But I do miss the accuracy of an orthographic view. Just your basic Top, sides, not really an orthographic that is rotate-able.
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Since nzo has commented in another thread that he has some older PLA that is a bit brittle, he may be asking if it is usable. First question would be if it actually goes through the bowden tube ok. If so, then:
I would approach this as you would a print for strength by way of wall thickness and infill:
If it needs to take punishment, use fresh PLA. If it is going to sit on a shelf and look purty, then use the heck out of it.
PLA would pretty much break if dropped anyway, so you are not talking about strong stuff.
If it needs flexibility, then PLA would really not be good anyway. If it needs strength, then PLA is not really usable either.
That is my opinion and I am unanimous in that.
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If someone in the print core creation department is listening....
Any hope of creating a print core that can process continuous strand CF? Would be a game changer to have an alternative to markforged with the ultimaker flexibility.
FWIW
John
Not sure if that would be a strictly core issue, but it would be a very nice thing to have. For what it takes, I am on board with the idea. That and super high temps to print those really high TG materials.
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That is weird. I do not believe I have ever heard of that. I know I have never seen it on my printer.
Wanna try something out of the ordinary? Try switching the cores to the opposite slots and feed the materials through again to match the cores. Then, reslice so that the printer can identify which core is where properly, and see if it does it again.
I know it sounds weird, but maybe give it a try.
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Hmmmm, I missed that......I was looking at the wrong thing.....my mistake.
So, to make sure the wee brain is working properly, the PLA is fine on its own and under-extrudes when using PVA?
Does brittle (easily snapped) PLA filament equate to less strong prints?
in Materials & profiles
Posted · Edited by Guest
Yes. Exactly what I suspect as well. And parts made from old filament seem fine but I haven't done any mechanical testing on old filament versus new. I've done lots of mechanical testing but not on old filament.
I haven't been printing long enough to have old filament. I burn through it like wildfire with experiments and such.
So, I depend on much more experienced people to advise on things like this since mostly any input I have is conjecture.
Although I did experiment with annealing nylon prints and it really made the material stiff and hard. Nothing flimsy or thin though.
I have not tried to anneal any other materials as of yet.