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kmanstudios

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Posts posted by kmanstudios

  1. Slicer is Cura (settings above)

    Printer is Ultimaker 3 Extendrd (about a month old)

    Filament is MatterHackers PRO PLA

    I know it ain’t always the plastic, which is why I included pictures of the model and the slicer settings.

    Which version of Cura?

    For instance, there is a setting in the latest version that helps with elephants foot.

    And, it was such a tiny slot of slicer settings. I just wanted people to really be able to help you as fully as possible, not make guesses that could be frustrating for you.

  2. The listed print area is the physical dimension of the buildplate itself.

    As you can see, there are greyed out areas. this accounts for one or two nozzles, areas where the priming blob would go, areas where the brim, skirt and support areas extend out and the priming tower if you are using it.

    Think of it as a TV. It is only 45" if measured diagonally and even then it is really only 44.25".

    Honestly, I do believe to start trying to state otherwise would wind up with a massive list of variable printing scenarios trying to take everything into account to give maximum printing areas.

  3. If you wish to go this route (Opening a bitmap into Cura) then do so with darker is higher.Then push the model below the print plate to cut off the base.

    Although, the best way to do it is what geert_2 said.

    There are a lot of vector packages that can use fonts to create outlines from and then import into a variety of 3D packages for extrusion and beveling. Beveling is important.

  4. I am thinking that something got banged while printing. If the printhead is knocked hard enough while printing, the printing rods (X & Y) can be knocked out of alignment. This could happen if it hit a hard, curled up part.

    I have had it happen in such a way that it has knocked my plate loose from the clips. It is rare, but it can happen.

  5. Interesting...it doesn't show up in my browser (Chrome)...but if I view it in IE I can see it.

    But even when I went to edit the post...all the bold markup tags were gone...that's why I assumed that the forum took it away...

     

    I use Firefox a lot, which is where I could see the bold, so I went to Chrome and could still see it there.

    I'm on a PC with Win 8.1. I have not checked my Win 10 Machine.

  6. I am sorry, i think, I didn't explain my question properly. There's only one official reseller in India.

    And I am concerned about the customer service I will get in case if I might run into some Hardware related issues.

    I have had very bad experience with that on my previous printer (Closed source printer).

    Although I bought my previous printer from another company, not from the Ultimaker reseller, I just want to know if same doesn't repeat with Ultimaker 3.

    That makes sense. :)

  7. If your Detail levels are less than the height of the layering, it will not pick it up.

    If your Detail levels are less than the width of the nozzle, it will most likely drop it.

    It is basically a sampling of the  object based on those two conditions.

    Try to use the Nyquist frequency as a guide:

    In general terms,

    R = result

    S = sampling rate

    O = object detail

    S*O = 1/2R

    In printing terms (2D printing) it would be something like this:

    S * Object Detail = 300 PPI (Pixles Per Inch) of image scan

    Result  = 150 DPI (Dots Per Inch in printing) of printed detail quality.

  8. I know it is almost impossible, but i want the printer to be able to print from where was stopped by a power failure. I had something like this and 10 hours of print were wasted.

    Even if you had a battery backup, you could still run out the power, so, no matter the setup you could lose power to the printer. I feel this should be something to aspire to as well.

  9. The file (I downloaded and checked) just needs to be raised 0.2mm in the z direction. Sometimes a model's pivot or something does let it sink below the surface. But you can raise the model up or down.

    You may have to go into preferences and uncheck "Automatically drop models to the build plate" so that it will 'stick' at the desired height.

    The object seems ok in every other respect.

  10. It could be that the software you refer to is using an outdated version of the STL file code. I am not sure how many revisions of the code there have been in the years, but almost all output formats in every type will evolve.

    Would it be possible for you to post a link to a file?

  11. >>>snip

    Ok thanks for the offer of help - my main issue right now is not being able to print at all with Simplify3D, whether through Cura or USB:

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/52023-um3-and-s3d-g-code-unable-to-send-print-job-to-group

    Thanks

    I think @SandervG wants you to start new thread for a proper discussion to help you, as your subject for help is not really part of this thread :)

    Actually a couple of independent threads.
  12. I have needed to contact them before and come up with the same problem as you- cant seem to find an email address. However it is there, found it by chance!

    if you highlight thier black 'border' on the website, you will see thier email address highlighted.

    They have literally used black text with a black background!

    sales@3dsolex.com

    Thanks!! Wow.....who woulda thunk it.....

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