kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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That looks like pillowing. Maybe not enough top and bottom layers as it allowed the ambient pressure to build up and push on the thin layers over the air pockets?
Yes, I am taking a wild guess here. Just a shot in the dark. But it does look like pillowing.
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What you mean by cold and hot pulls?
The problem occurs during the print at a certain height.
That could be because the humidity in the filament causes it to clog a bit during its heating cycles.
However, check this out to introduce yourself to the hot and cold pulls to clean out the PVA.
When dealing with PVA, moisture in the filament is just the first go to response in almost every situation. Cleaning out the nozzle will rule this out.
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Have you done a series of cold and hot pulls to make sure the nozzle is not clogged. If the PVA gets too moist, and it does not take much for that to happen, it will clog the nozzle and prevent proper flow.
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Very bad it's not working properly, instead of making a new version every 15 days, please consider to do one wich is working.
I was a Ultimaker fan but now it's over, i'll definitely by another brand for my next machine
Kinda mixing hardware and software there, eh skippy?
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I add one on top: If that line representing the z seam could be moved around and would affect the location settings for the z seam, it would make life even easier for the user.
Great idea!! Darn it...cannot like it twice......oh well, count this as the unofficial 'second like'.
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The thing I have found when learning this setup is:
A) There is the mechanical such as buildplate leveling, what you use for adhesion, things that are tangible.
B) Software controls. And, this is a different animal.
Once you know your mechanical issues are solved, and they seem to be, I would suggest printing a lot of small things of different types to find what setting work for you.
I have found it is not a one and done for everyone. It seems that variances in filament manufacturers, colors and even environment can have a major influence. For instance, you are in Indonesia. That is a lot more humid and hot than here in New York. Take what people offer as a guide and then have fun seeing what works for you.
And, starting out I would suggest calibration or overhang tests such as these to start with. It will provide a set of varying geometries that can pinpoint things or limits or the printer.
And, start with the basic presets and then make adjustments on one setting at a time so that you can track what is actually changing.
The overhang tests may seem a bit silly, but they really helped me learn a lot about things you read about such as bridging, size of positive and negative details such as type and just what you may be needing for something you are going to print.
For instance, I can get a good top layer (if it is thick enough) up to 85°, but the bottom layer really is trashy. Not a problem on the inside if it is not seen. I round my printer can do 60° - 65° pretty nicely. This also let me know the limits of supports I may or may not need on any given print.
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Support is a set of commands or tools in the "Support" section.
Brims, Skirts and Rafts are in the "BuildPlate Adhesion" section.
They are independent and not related to each other.
Can you show a screenshot of your settings?
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When you say the printer stopped feeding part way through, which core?
The unrealistic difference between heights can be because there is a bit of filament poking out. Try to clean the core as much as possible.
Also, you may have to do a manual leveling to make sure it is within tolerance and then do an active level to make sure.
There is also a difference in the AA core and BB core in design in that the BB core is designed differently for PVA printing.
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Just to be devel's advocate:
There are people who would think that it is a true representation and not a 'notification'. I have seen threads where people think that what the layers view shows exactly how it will print; with thick noodle like lines vs. how it really is printed.
Something to ponder would be a checkbox that would show it in a color or something.
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It forces any id. Just like it forces that there should be actual g-codes in there. It needs those (especially for Cura Connect) to be able to figure out if it can be printed at all. This doesn't seem like that big of a deal if you always print whatever you slice right away, but with a queue (and especially with different configurations in your cluster) this suddenly becomes a thing.
T'would be nice to have an override that the user could put in so that it just goes on and prints without worry. It does create a problem if your material is not readable by way of being in a drybox.
Mayhaps a way to select the proper material instead of being forced to choose 'generic'?
Or, maybe I will just start slapping old, empty spools with NFC tags on it to hoodwink the system.
The upside is that while it chokes on material selection, I am changing plates and applying my stick stuff to the plate. At least you can override it at the end of all that.
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It's not only possible you have done it many times I'm sure. You run the leveling wizard. It makes you go through this process - the first have you are supposed to have the nozzle 1mm from the glass. Then it goes to the back center and you level by spinning the electronic control wheel. Then you level the front 2 corners by spinning the leveling screws.
THEN it always has you level the second nozzle/core as well as the last step. At that point it is storing the z offset between the 2 different nozzles/cores. If you level the first nozzle with paper but skip the paper for the second nozzle then the z offset will have the second nozzle always a bit low and it will tend to crash into your model a bit but also squish that pva in better (asuming you put pva in second core).
There should be some happy medium between not hitting the part but still squishing the pva nicely.
Even better it would be good if when printing pva over pla Cura automatically over extrudes by maybe 50%.
Huh....that is interesting to hear. I never would have thought of that. Thanks
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Having been interested in this thread, I would like to add the ability to print such goodies as this guy is.
I can see where these type of materials would be very useful in my long term goals.
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There's no easy way (if any) to teach the UM3 your custom material. That's intended (AFAIK) and not a bug. The Cura Connect -Server uses this information to find a suitable printer for the print job. That's obviously not necessary, if you print from the USB-stick (that's why it does not complain in this case).
I know, that with Cura it's possible to create custom material profiles, but those are not very useful for the UM3 and the new firmware. Just choose generic PLA in Cura (but keep the current settings), if you want to send the job via network - and the printer is happy.
While I think it is a grand idea to automate the selection of available printers, it is a bit of a miss in the case of being able to slice one job and print in multiple colors. And, it really is a miss when you have a spool off the holder and in a dry box.
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I print with Nylon on my UM3E with no mods. It prints nicely and is not abrasive. However, Carbon Fibre infused Nylon is. Make sure it is just plain old nylon and not some exotic infused filament.
Happy printing!!
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The heat expansion as you mentioned is really a problem. That is why I have been printing colder. Colorfabb evens mentioning it.
It is a matter of finding the balance. And, I have to take the everlast nozzle off the core and inspect it. I think something got seriously jammed in it. When I do cold pulls, I get a bifurcated point instead of a rounded bullet point now. That will really mess things up methinks....
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I am experimenting with several metal fills. Copperfill is just the first. Until you polish them, and bring out the metal particles' shine, it does not look like metal.
It also has a nice weight to it that is missing in basic plastics.
And, I like to be as well rounded as possible.
But, I had to put the experiment on hold at the moment as I do have to get other prints out in different materials. So, while I get other things out, I ponder how to make my experience better.
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Way back in the day when I played with web design, that would happen if there was a tiny active area. I got to where I used a click to activate or deactivate.If I go via "Forum" I also have these problems. But what still works well is to go directly from the top menu "Community" to "Top Categories", and then "General", "The art of printing", etc... So I have to avoid the direct path to "Forum".
Browsing the forum without loging-in, and then only log-in when I want to reply, also works fine, but is not handy.
Unfortunately that drop-down menu is useless...99% of the time the "popup" vanishes when you move the mouse pointer down...making it impossible to select anything...yet another catch22...
Ya, this has been iritating me for a long time. The function of the top menu bar is not intiutive. Mouse over and pause, submenus pop up only to disappear when attempting to select. Most of the time. Several attempts result in being allowed to select sub menus.
Have the same issue with Cura sometimes.
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@SandervG - what about a "kman"-challenge during the downtime? Something like: what can you model in 36 hours to celebrate the forum migration...
Let's collect some suggestions for "how to use the downtime as creative as possible"!
Even da Kman could not participate in that as I am getting my heiney kicked by Colorfabb copperfill.
This ain't easy stuff to print, I tells ya......
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And, it keeps kicking my heiny all over the printing landscape. It is like I can get real close, but not get it just right.
The copperfill seems to want to clog very easily and now, when I do cold pulls, I am getting a forked end instead of a pointed/bullet shape. That is odd.
The material seems to be very hygroscopic too. It seems to pop and crackle a lot like PVA as well as want to grind a lot on the feeder area.
So, I keep playing with simple shapes and objects. Right now, I am just one level above a cube and it starts out good, but does not last. This object also uses PLA for supports.
Although it does seem to work well with the PVA, it is during the use of the PVA that the copperfill seems to want to clog.
I shall endeavor to persevere.......
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I will respectfully disagree on two points you make.
One does not put out information to convince people. One shares opinions and techniques, but not to convince, just to show it can work. It is up to the individual to adapt or not.
Noobs can be a pain too as some of them forget how difficult something can be and wonder why things just do not magically work right off the bat.
I prefer the approach of attraction, not recruitment....changing minds cannot be done by anybody but the person themselves. And, not all things work in all environments.
And, I for one am looking forward to your instructionals on how you do this. Plating such as you are doing is alchemy to me and would love to learn more. And, your experiments with the Acetone cut many, many hours of printing and ruined prints testing.
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OK...been printing cubes and cubes and cubes and.......
I am on my last test before I actually print an object; provided it works this time. So, here is what I have so far.
Basically followed this guide for the UM2:
Settling on 200°C for temp
Slowed print speed down to 35mm/s
Pushed flow to 120%.
Retractions have followed the guidelines directly and seem to be ok at this time. But, cubes do not have retractions, so we will see.
I am getting a nice feel from what I have gotten so far. Nice weight, actually not as brittle as I thought it would be. Still looks like red clay LOL
As soon as I print my counterweight, I will try a Batman Bust I found online.
My only deficit at this time is the solidity of the walls. They are underextruding at 50 mm/s so that is why I slowed it down.
The good thing is that I am not cooking this filament and causing to clog anymore. So, lower temps and slower print speed.
I found that 195°C was a tad too low, but will experiment a bit more to try and get a better idea of that. But first, to scale up the prints into something beyond a basic cube.
Of course, the counterweights are just a slight bit fancier than the cube, but it will test the interactions between PVA and this stuff as well as retractions and whether I can get a clean print.
These days I do not use the prime tower or, rarely, the ooze shield.
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Roger that about being on a budget. It is one of the reasons I make a list of things I want to accomplish and then when I get the spare money, I purchase supplies.
For instance, I am just now trying metal fill filament and I have had the nozzles and filament for about 5-6 weeks now.
But other than those rare spurts in liquidity, I have to budget as well.
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A while back, I posted a question about metal fills and asked for advice. Either nobody had any experience to share with us or did not care to.
SO!!
I am here to start this off with my initial experiences. So far, I have only used the ColorFabb Copperfill. And, man is this stuff weird.
I really feel like I am starting all over again. Clogged nozzles, difficult hot and cold pulls to undo the clog.
Nozzle used right now is a 0.4 3D Solex with a Ruby nozzle.....maybe sapphire...... I lose track, but it is the super hard one provided by gr5.
I am learning about heat creep and other things I have not had to worry about. And, so far, I have not pulled one successful print. Playing with temps, speeds and other things. I'll probably burn through an entire roll just to get something decent started.
Sigh....LOL
Will keep this updated as I get things done. But one of the reasons I am using this now is that I want to create a counter weight as this stuff has a nice heft to it. And, some things just feel better when they are not light and fluffy feeling......
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I found the culprit (I think). I discovered the following about this orange filament:
- It is very brittle - snaps easily
- Diameter is about 3.03 to 3.04mm
- Very tight in bowden tube...friction prevented passage through extruder
- Lubed b-tube with a drop of light machine oil
- Inability to slide easily created a PLA 'blob' in front of the nozzle
- Extrudes with what look like moisture bubbles
Now it's printing the robot
Yeah, a lot of those Chinese filaments that are listed as 3.00 mm are not really that well regulated and diameter can vary quite a bit in a roll. 2.85 is the ideal as far as I can tell from research.
I am glad you found a solution, but are you considering a higher quality filament?
Is there a way to save post processing plugin state?
in UltiMaker Cura
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Being Devil's Advocate here, but shouldn't TweakatZ and other plugins be responsible for import and export of scripted values so they can be retrieved independently?