kmanstudios
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Posts posted by kmanstudios
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Dear UltiSanta,
I have been a good boy this year and would like to see the following things on an Ultimaker 4 system:
- Larger build volume because, well, I like big things and I cannot lie, other guys might deny, teeny weeny things can be done by every other thing.....
- Properly enclosed build area to remove heat issues on the whole.
- Smoother ops between firmware and software. While firmware accepts 'PLA' (or other various substrate) regardless of color or type Cura wants to choke on it requiring a manual override when printing even though all the settings are the same when you are slicing (unless you change them of course), So if you are using presets, does it really matter what color it is?
- A pausing function between prints to allow for cleaning ops as I change plates between each print
- A pausing function During prints to allow for cleaning ops as long prints can accumulate or cook hygroscopic materials and require cleaning
- An actual resume print after some sort of failure would be cool, especially on those long prints of days and days and it chokes at the last few hours
- And, finally, a dilithium crystal matter/antimatter mix chamber for off grid printing when Armageddon hits
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- Larger build volume because, well, I like big things and I cannot lie, other guys might deny, teeny weeny things can be done by every other thing.....
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I second the automotive paints for sheer toughness. I use a mix, but almost always prime with an automotive enamel or lacquer.
Hi kman -- this comment of yours stuck in my mind and I'd like to ask you:
Do you use an automotive etch primer before you apply enamels? The etch part is not really required is it since it is applied to plastic and not metal. What's your strategy when using auto paints?
Thank you my friend.
My strategy is to shoot first and do NOT ask questions...LOL....>pew pew<
Seriously, since I work with plastics primarily, or plasticized materials, standard primers work just fine. Anything that is rated to bond with plastics will work. Since there are so many varieties in different countries, that is the closest I can get to a recommendation. Remember I come from the modeling world of spaceships and cars. So, even though I have branched out into things beyond Tamiya and Testor's paints, the principles still apply. So, you can use them as a guide to chemical compositions.
The most important thing is to remember the chemical compositions going into your mix.
Enamels over lacquers is fine.
Lacquers over enamels are usually not good as a lacquer will be a more chemically 'hot' substance and do some crazy things to your enamels underneath.
If you are going to use lacquers, it is best to use a lacquer primer for this reason.
Lacquers go just fine over plastics for the most part.
Also, do test paints over failed print parts and such to see how it melds or works.
And by the way, I do like the Krylons over most plastics as well as Duplicolor, especially some of their metal paints.
Also, depending on the effect you wish to achieve, primer color may or may not matter.
If I want a blindingly bright Red, I will put it over a white primer as , unless you are really gunking up your layers, light passes through, and bounces off the white, brightening the Red.
If I want a deep Cherry Red, I will use a black primer and then build up the Red over that until I get the color I want as it will still let the light pass through, but not bounce out as much.
Depending on the model will depend on if I polish or use a clear on it.
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Depending on the tolerances involved, that could create other issues in your print such as making other areas smaller than they need to be.if the hole is smaller that designed you need to use a negative number in the horizontal offset.
An example would be if I have a widget that is printing just fine at the designed width, and it needs to be that width to slot into something else or be accurate, then the hole would be made more proper and the rest would falter.
I think it is better to learn the tolerances, the why of things and then learn to design around that.
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Point is that I have as constraint the width of each single arm so I cannot increase text size as much as I'd like to
Turn it sideways?
Ok i've uploaded version 2 https://goo.gl/FJdQCC
Turning it sideways? The space available is almost the same both on the top and on the side of the design.
I dunno...I gots 'em purty big there budreaux...
May not be the aesthetic you wished for, but it can be done.
tried with a different line width (3.0mm) but no way! I suppose that rotating the text along the arms is the only solution... I'll give it a try later. Did you keep the original text size?
Nope...beefed it up by quite a bit....
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Kinda double posting that, so I will follow suit
Actually, if you use one type of filament (Say Blue PLA) and you have Transparent PLA loaded, it will still cause the issue. The problem is that all those are generic and the same, so, I am confused why the software has an issue with it when the firmware does not.
When I print off a USB stick, no issues. Same file going through Cura Wifi and Connect, gives the error message.
It is also a problem when you have any filament off the spool and in a separate dry box that prevents any reading of the NFC chip and you are forced to choose generic PLA or any other.
The upside is that I use that as a 'pause' to change plates, clean nozzles (can even do atomic pulls if needed), wipe with alcohol and also apply Papa K's Magical Slurry. THEN I configure the override and it goes about its business.
I have the whole process down to about 5 minutes between end of print to start of leveling.
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Actually, if you use one type of filament (Say Blue PLA) and you have Transparent PLA loaded, it will still cause the issue. The problem is that all those are generic and the same, so, I am confused why the software has an issue with it when the firmware does not.
When I print off a USB stick, no issues. Same file going through Cura Wifi and Connect, gives the error message.
It is also a problem when you have any filament off the spool and in a separate dry box that prevents any reading of the NFC chip and you are forced to choose generic PLA or any other.
The upside is that I use that as a 'pause' to change plates, clean nozzles (can even do atomic pulls if needed), wipe with alcohol and also apply Papa K's Magical Slurry. THEN I configure the override and it goes about its business.
I have the whole process down to about 5 minutes between end of print to start of leveling.
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If you feel there is too little pressure in the feeder, then you can tighten it with the tool that came with the printer.
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Does it pop and crackle when you print? If so, it is too moist. PVA of any kind will absorb moisture like you would not believe.
Do you have anything to adhere the print on the buildplate? Have you done proper leveling? Is your nozzle clean on the outside? Have you done hot pulls or cold/atomic pulls to make sure it is flowing inside the nozzle?
I lean towards the moist PVA because of the blackish blob. That happens when there is a bit of burn off of moisture and the carbon collects on the nozzle.
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Point is that I have as constraint the width of each single arm so I cannot increase text size as much as I'd like to
Turn it sideways?
Ok i've uploaded version 2 https://goo.gl/FJdQCC
Turning it sideways? The space available is almost the same both on the top and on the side of the design.
I dunno...I gots 'em purty big there budreaux...
May not be the aesthetic you wished for, but it can be done.
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Otay...mon Cherie....ROI? Nope...Extremely positive experience, you betcha
I crossed off the N2Plus printers because you could not get into it and actually level it manually. When I contacted them, the response was 'you never have to.' Well, I like tech, a lot....but I also do not trust it and that raised a few red flags.
So, I went with the UM3E for the build plate size and the dual nozzle. Being open source factored in as well.
So, as a complete newbie, I have been having a ball. Getting to engineering parts that interlock and articulate, all sorts of weirdness. And, the printer has been chugging along with mostly no hiccups. Mostly I say because nothing can be perfect and humidity issues and just basic learning had something to do with it.
The Support in the US is very good and responsive and the community has helped me overcome most of my issues.
The dual nozzle has been really nice as I print strange things that can be spindly and need that PVA.
I did not buy this to get into 3D Printing as a business. I did get into it to explore things and just let the goofy flag fly and I have not been disappointed.
And, it has, for the most part, been tinker free. While I am not adverse to tinkering, I do prefer to spend my time designing and printing.
Oh, and as a final thought...with just mainly proper maintenance, it has been running for almost one year straight. Very few hours not printing.
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Point is that I have as constraint the width of each single arm so I cannot increase text size as much as I'd like to
Turn it sideways?
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I'm wondering if you purposely level the second nozzle "wrong" you can get it to squish the pva into the pla harder enough so that this works nicely. On the other hand the second nozzle would have a tendency to scrape/scratch the pla on the layer below.
I am on a UM3E and I am not sure that individual leveling of the nozzles is possible.
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I took a look at the file you linked to. The text itself is less than 2mm in size. That means it would probably close up unless you go very slow and with cooler than normal temps.
I did a slice of the model and there were areas that the 'center dots', like the inside of the smaller 4, does not appear and in other places, like inside the numbers 5 or 6, are just one splooge of filament. That is mighty fine for a 0.4 nozzle.
If you made the file, try to increase the font size in your master file as much as you can.
Yes now I recall, the version on thingiverse is old and the font size was too small to be printed. Indeed if you compare your sliced version with the one I posted previously the font size is clearly different. Later I'll post the newer STL...
I was wondering why the discrepancy. But I would still make the fonts larger than in your original post, or make them positive, as in protruding above the surface...or, even both.
I would also use geert_2's post as a solid guideline for sizing of text.
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I took a look at the file you linked to. The text itself is less than 2mm in size. That means it would probably close up unless you go very slow and with cooler than normal temps.
I did a slice of the model and there were areas that the 'center dots', like the inside of the smaller 4, does not appear and in other places, like inside the numbers 5 or 6, are just one splooge of filament. That is mighty fine for a 0.4 nozzle.
If you made the file, try to increase the font size in your master file as much as you can.
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That WORKED!
Thank you for your help!
You are quite welcome.
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Ok.....I see what happened. Go to your support area, then click on the gear next to the down arrow. It will open up the settings dialogue box. Check all the boxes next to support. This will open up a lot of things that are normally hidden. The biggest difference I can see is that I put my support horizontal expansion on 0.25. It defaults to 3mm. This will give you a whole buncha support structure all around the object. This is a useful item to play with as sometimes, it does need the extra expansion width, and sometimes, not.You get exactly what I hoped I would get!
...except this is what I get. I matched my support settings to your screenshot. I am fairly confident I am using default settings everywhere else. Any thoughts?
In this model, it just needed that tiny bit.
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oh...crippleware...nevermind...they always kill a feature that I need when that happens. It is like they can see the future.
Pooey.....:(
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I took a look at the file. It is a well built model. Turning off "Union Overlapping Volumes" left the internal voids intact.
Thanks, I'll give it a try when my current print is complete. In looking at the layer view, that's not working for me, but maybe Cura will get it right when it counts.
Not sure what could be giving you and issue. This is what you should see. Cura 3.0.4
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I took a look at the file. It is a well built model. Turning off "Union Overlapping Volumes" left the internal voids intact.
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You are welcome and congrats! You are on your way
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That's a neat graph
I've used SolidWorks Academic ($20 per year for military veterans) and it can do quite a bit. I found some decent tutorials on YouTube and Lynda.com
I did not know they offered that. I will have to check that out. Thanks for mentioning that!!
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That is interesting. Is there any way that you can make the model available without violating any terms or conditions?
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I love DSM but it's not for everyone. Please go through this flowchart as I think it's pretty damn good:
https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448
That is a very nice flowchart. I do find 3D Coat to be more intuitive than ZBrush though. A lot cheaper too.
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By my tests so far, 2mm should be just fine for inset testing.
How does it look in layer view? Can you post a screenshot?
Acetone Finishing on PLA
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted · Edited by Guest
Here is a question that harkens to the old days when I would develop my own B/W film and prints.
Is there something that would act as a 'stop bath' for the acetone to prevent it from continuing to work on the plastic after you finish?
My chemistry is sucky, so I have to ask.....