kmanstudios
-
Posts
4,052 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
119
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by kmanstudios
-
-
Unless you are going to make really small parts, I have printed at 0.06 and 0.04 and the difference is really not worth all that extra time. I can prime, sand and finish a model in the extra time it takes to squeeze even those 20 extra microns out. I would have no idea what extra time a 20 micron print would take as it is an exponential progression in time and not linear. I think it follows the basic square/cube law.
-
I kinda think that market forces will take care of the issue. Your worries appear to be based off the idea that Ultimaker will not respond and instead stay stagnant.
And, even if they do, someone will see the opportunity and make good conversion kits. Look at how fast proper print cores (Meaning properly adapted to the new tech) popped up as 3rd party additions to the UM3 series.
I've been in computers since '85 and the stagnant companies do not survive or they become adaptable by way of 3rd party mods. I think Ultimaker are a bit more savvy than to stagnate. I mean, really, do you think they would continue to make printers for a filament size that basically would not exist? That would be business suicide. And, if they do, someone else will come along.
Some changes are slow to take an industry and others take over quite quickly.
But, by the time this all happens, I think most of us will be upgrading our printers as other, more radical changes take place. Think about it: our computers, that we purchase for a mere few thousand dollars (Francs, Pounds, whatever) are far more powerful and can do in real time more-so than the supercomputers of just 15 - 20 years ago and I can remember when the UM3-X I have would have cost at least 25K or more. And just a little over 30 years ago, it would take 24 hours just to render a frame of the original Tron movie. Disney had that thing rendering on every supercomputer in labs and institutions it could get time on.
-
I've recently printed a very large and flat ABS part, see picture below using the winning adhesion method (see my previous post with the link):
I was actually surprised to see there was no warping at all, the model stuck very well to the heat bed. After it popped off when the build plate cooled down, the model was even bending upward in the center a millimetre or so, so weirdly enough, it had some kind of inverse warping. No clue as to why this happened.The center of your model has a denser proportion of longer/deeper parts that could lead to different cooling times in those areas and thusly push/pull as it continues to cool.
-
If your filament is grinding in the feeder and thusly not feeding, it is probably a tension thing.
If your printcore is not heating up enough to properly melt the plastic, it may be having to use too much force to get the filament through.
If your feeder is too loose or tight, it can grind the filament. Here is one link for info on this.
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/173-the-feeder
Since you say it is a two year old machine, then I took a guess, but the idea remains the same as far as I have found.
Be aware that different makes and colors of materials can have slightly different properties.
-
bed adhesion was perfect. waitet the first 4 layers. the printed part was 10x10cm, square.
edit: was PLA
Bed adhesion can cut loose after a time.
Be very careful with that as that is how I bent my fanguard. But I will tell you how I did get it off.
First, be very, very careful. I seriously cannot state this enough.
Second, go to the firmware controls and turn the printcore temp up and wait for it to heat and then slowly start to pull off the material with needle nose pliers. I had a glob of PETG that did that.
If it is way up into the electronics of the core, I would suggest contacting reseller first.
-
Oh and one last thing on that....I followed a piece of advice from (I think) gr5 about letting the buildplate heat up with the heat shield ( my fancy mit der schmancy bubble wrap) to let the ambient temp come up and even out before I started to print.
-
Hi
Just one drop of oil on the 8mm shafts but not very often
Owen
Tank yew veddy, veddy much ol' bean!!
Woops...you are from Australia...hope that was not offensive.......
-
Did you follow the advice on the support pages to use a raft?
To me? Nope...just winging it a bit with that sort of thing. The slurry I make from recycled PVA can be thick. I was trying to use the PVA as a cradle type of support on one set of experiments, but wow, environmental issues play with that prospect a lot. The black piece with the spikey parts was just on the PVA slurry. I was paying attention to temp (Bed and nozzle) and speeds mostly. I also used a bit of my experience with T-Glase with the bed height (just a tiny bit looser than the normal tightness I would level with and then did not active level as it would have wiped that out) so that it would lay down a nice, hot loop. It really bridged well. I could not believe how clean the arches were in the piece I printed and nice overhangs too.
As soon as I get this project finished (been the tech week from hell and really bad sinus infection the week before) I will be trying to print my supersized Enterprise with it. The only part I will use something different on will be the Red Nacelle Hydrogen Scoops (I will be using a transparent PETG for those). But it is what I am wanting to print it with primarily because of the strength it has. It will be a 39 inch model printed in parts and with those long, tube/angled parts, I do not want a weak plastic. And I have much more success with the PC than ABS.
That stuff is strong! But the PVA slurry did put a nice surface between the glass and the PC material. It was fun to let it sit and cool. I could hear it just cut loose from the PVA on the plate without any damage to the glass.
-
How do you make it stick to the glass? And in general, what are the recommended print settings?
For every material there are printing instructions on the UM website, look here for the instructions for PC. These are valid for PC from UM, your mileage for other brands may vary.
PC is tricky. For example, it is easy to pull the chips from your glass plate if you don't follow the instructions.
Definitely. I just used those settings and they worked. I also taped up a bubble wrap barrier to hold in heat.
I have also printed using an exceptionally clean plate (alcohol) and even a PVA slurry to put a slight barrier between it and the glass. I have been trying to get other things done before I return to it so it has been a couple of weeks.
Here is a sample of the weirdness I do:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35928-can-the-um3-print-polycarbonate
I brimmed the heck out of it, but, to be fair, I did use a PVA brim just to keep air from the edges.
Again, I re-iterate, I was/am using the Ultimaker PC material. Every other make of materials from other vendors (PLA, Etc) do have different properties in general. So, if not using the Ultimaker PC, consider them a jumping off point.
-
2
-
-
I have not had that behaviour. But I never change Print Core 1 as it is always used for non-PVA materials. That is just me though.
May I ask why you would be changing the Printcore 1?
-
You can try Ultimaker CPE+.
The benefit is that Cura has printing profiles for UM material built in, so you don't have to find optimal settings yourself. These profiles are improving with every release of Cura.
Look up the specs here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/materials/cpe
The PC material I use and have great success with is the Ultimaker PC. It is the strongest and highest temp material I have found yet. I do really like it a lot
-
This may sound really stupid to most of you, but I know to use the magna-lube on the main Z-Axis screw and the machine oil on the printhead parts that slide along the X-Y rods. But, the slideblocks, I have not seen anything about them. I have the black sideblocks.
So, lube or no lube?
-
Have you tried to print in Polycarbonate? It has the highest TG threshold my research has found as well as no more difficult to print with. I actually have more successes with it than ABS.
Nylon can be too flexible and is hydroscopic.
-
1
-
-
I've used Testor's Model glue in the past...it's so, so stringy tho, so clean up is important.
I think I am just used to Testors because of all the models I have put together. I like that it bonds the plastics together. ABS really does well with it as it is a styrene much like in model kits. And for some reason, I really cannot get Superglue type of CA to work worth a flip. I know it is me, but I just cannot get it to work.
I am going to be trying something in combination with Testors soon if I can just get one part to print correctly. I have literally burned up a full spool trying to get the heat and such right for no warping.....sigh....And they are long prints just to find an issue. PLA no less!
If it works out, I will be posting with pics soon, but I gotta get this part out right before I release the model. Do not want to release a model that I cannot print.
If I can print it, anybody can.
-
Four leveling screws makes no sense - you always have at least two of them that are fighting each other. Three points define a flat plane, four points are the corners of a 3D prism, i.e. not flat.
Whut he said.....8)
I especially like that the active leveling uses a 90° angle to test against the main 3 screw points used to manually level. Kinda like having a second set of measurements.
I could not find the language for the definition provided...this is spot on.<3
-
I had never heard of this stuff, so I did some digging.
For me, this would be bad since, well, honestly, I cannot stand printing with ABS LOL But, that is me.....
Polypropylene has a considerable amount of warp, more than ABS.
Extrusion temp is within range:
Extrusion temperature for polypropylene filament is 230-260°C
Buildplate:
The build plate should be heated between 60°C to 110°C with an optimal temperature of 60°C.
PPSU (Polyphenylsulfone) Filament is way out of range of the printer by these specs I could find:
Printer nozzle temperature: 360 - 400°C
Heated bed temperature: 140°C +
Both of those variables are out of range with stock UM3. I would not know if you could mod the printer for that.
But, neither seems to have any corrosive capabilities like a carbon fiber or metal filled filament would.
-
Thank you for the help!
You are quite welcome.....after all, we all have plastic in our arterial bowden tubes LOL
-
1
-
-
Tnx !
However, as well as select most other settings that would be found in the custom tab ... what is to you the custom tab ? The setting that are specific for each individual extruder ?
In the 'per model settings' they are "Per Model" regardless of the extruder. For instance, you can change the speed of each model and such. Each model can have its own support settings (from within Cura) such as overhang and all. But, in the materials grouping there are only two of the 25 or so available settings: Default Printing Temperature and Flow. Some things must remain common as it is currently designed.
I am guessing it is the mathematical relationships as mentioned by ghostkeeper of Team Ultimaker in another thread (variable Layer Heights on a print), so you will not always find all the custom settings in the per model area.
But the simplest thing, as you have requested is to be able to tell your support models to use the extruder with the PVA filament and leave the rest to the common settings on the right hand side of the interface.
-
That is good info to haveTo adjust the settings, if you change your mind or think of something, you have to ungroup (In the Edit drop down) and then make your change(s). Then you go back and merge them again.
No need to ungroup. You can also Ctrl-click (or Command-click) an individual object that is inside a group. Ctrl+Shift-click also works to select multiple objects, even in different groups.
Too cool....thanks!! 8)
-
To align objects as you wish, they need to be adjusted in your 3D package so that they all share a common pivot point.
Once in Cura, load each model part separately. Then click on a part and then, in the tab on the left side, click on the icon that looks like 3 hour glasses.
This is your 'per model' settings. You can select each extruder per model as well as select most other settings that would be found in the custom tab. Speed, support, etc. Remember that most can use the common settings, so be sure that you do not overly replicate the settings.
Once all model parts have their individual settings, then select by holding down shift and clicking on each model, or use CTRL+A (Select all) or use the select all option in the edit drop down. After that, then (with all model parts still selected) go back to the edit drop down and choose "Merge Models". this will align all selected model parts and use the pivot point to align them and then group them.
To adjust the settings, if you change your mind or think of something, you have to ungroup (In the Edit drop down) and then make your change(s). Then you go back and merge them again.
-
I was changing out filaments today. I had a roll of PVA already loaded. I was putting on a roll of PLA. When it tried to read the NFC chip, it said "Too many materials detected" and it would not let me select at all. Even when I got to the selection screen, it would kick me out to the warning.
So, shut down, rebooted a few times and nothing changed. So, I took the PVA roll off the spool holder, placed the PLA back on by itself and then it said "PVA not supported on AA Core" or something to that effect. Then it clicked over to seeing the PLA and moved on ahead.
I pulled the PLA spool off, replaced the PVA spool and then the PLA spool and it has been happily printing since.
But, that was strange.....weird even, I tells ya!!
Anybody else seen this? First time since January (Since I started printing) I've had that happen. Usually smooth operations on that front.
-
I would put that in the 'Neato-Keeno' category
-
Well, I had a goofy thing happen to me this morning. I was at work (next to my printer at home) and I hear those little synthesizer noises coming out of the printer, just all happy and such and then a loud pop.
I turned and looked and I had neglected to make sure I had enough filament to finish a long job last night.
Soooo, being the cheap bastich I am, I paused the print, pulled off the bowden tube (From both ends) and tried to do a 'spot weld' between two filaments. Did not work. I only had about a 9 inch leader from the end of the filament and the feeder. Cooked off several inches trying to weld it to a new PLA filament. Now, I did not have the same brand of PLA, so there were some incompatibilities involved. One would melt faster than the other, etc....
So, in desperation, I cut the filament that was feeding into the machine way above the feeder, reloaded the next filament, making sure that both were cut as 90° as possible to butt up against each other. Slid the bowden tube over the main filament and then snaked the new filament through the feeder and into the tube, abutted to the main filament.
And, Voila!! Danged if it did not work! It fed nicely and just made a new color where they changed from main filament to new filament.
Kept an eye on it as it fed to make sure it did not bind in the tube, but, it just fed nicely and kept on going.
I will get caught up after I do some main checking on my computer as I am getting some strange errors on the drive. Spent a lot of last night having to back things up little by little as the drive would just grind to a halt, then have to reboot and do some more. That is why I neglected to check my filament length before starting the print. A bit preoccupied with my files.
But, that is no excuse, and now, I have a great experience of an emergency 'filamectomy' in the middle of a print. I'll post some pics once the drive is figured out.....sigh......
-
As dorky as it sounds, try to clean the back connectors with Isopropyl alcohol. I like to use 99% pure to cut down on contaminants.
I switched a BB core out with an AA core and then back again and I must have touched those tiny, delicate contact points in the back and it would not make the adjustment. Cleaned it with the alcohol and it worked again.
I now make sure that I do not touch that area, but it is good to clean every now and then as air pollutants (Dust, moisture, etc) will eventually crud it up a bit.
Gaps between merged models, Cura 2.5
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
If you have set the model to one extruder, I would think there is something about the model. If you could provide that I would be happy to take a look at it.
But, just a quick question, what did you make/cut the model in and are all the pivot points aligned?
And Bagel-orb is right. But I have never seen that happen to me and I have done several merged models.