Brulti
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Posts posted by Brulti
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True, thus why I tend to always wipe my glass with the yellow window cleaner from karcher. Even after I cleaned glue from some print with sponge and soap. I know that whatever chemicals they use in the yellow stuff is always the same stuff, won't harm the glass and it doesn't affect the sticking quality of the glass. Been doing that for a year now, never had a problem when I did a proper cleaning.
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14 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
I have actually had PLA put a divot in my glass it was stuck so hard.
I had that happen with ABS myself, stuck too hard on the glass, had to use an x-acto knife to take it out.
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I tend to just make sure that the glass is clean, the yellow karcher liquid works very nice, never had a PLA print pop off, never needed glue for printing with PLA. *Shrugs* Your mileage may vary, what counts is that what you do works for you. ?
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What product do you use to clean the glass?
Best method is a sponge with soap and warm water, alternative method is to use window cleaning products but do not use the ones that are blue in color, they contain some chemicals that prevents adhesion. Use the yellow ones, like what Karcher sells, works like a charm.
Also, glue is mandatory for ABS, but you shouldn't need it with PLA.
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Then I think that we can rule out a bad spool of material as the culprit for your troubles. Though, just out of curiosity: do you have a sensor in the dryboxes to measure the level of humidity? And, if you do, what is the average humidity? PVA should be kept below 55%. ABS doesn't reacts much to humidity, if at all.
ABS requires a brim, an enclosure and glue to print well. PLA only requires a clean glass bed and no enclosure. It is possible, if a print came off the glass bed and stuck to the printhead, that it created a back flow, forcing the material back up into the printcore and the whole printhead assembly, resulting in the mess you've experienced.
What do you use to wash the glass bed when it becomes dirty or when you've used glue for a print?
Did the printers managed to print anything before messing up? Was there a partly finished print sticking to the printheads when you found the mess?
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J'ai fait l'update, aucun soucis sous win8 ou win10 pour le moment.
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Adaptive layer works with PVA as well, I did a couple prints with it. I guess most of your problems were due to the feeder being dirty.
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0.15 mm.
You can also buy some calibration things online. Bought one made of metal, selected it by mistake when buying spools, pretty useful in the end because the edges of the metal won't fold or get indents if you hit it against something by mistake, like the core or anything else, contrary to the paper calibration card.
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I'm currently testing a Solex Hardcore 0.6 as well. Not done yet, but, at least for a 0.3 layer width, you'll want to print slower and hotter with PLA. The standard 200°C and 70mm/s of the generic profile results in underextrusion. I'm currently testing at 220°C and around 50mm/s. Still not that good, maybe 215°C would make the PLA less viscous.
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On 7/2/2018 at 7:13 PM, kmanstudios said:
I would have used a piece of geometry. I did not know that you could do this ? Nice tip!! Thanks ?
The support blocker does create a piece of geometry, a phantom cube, after all...
But that's a very nice tip indeed, I wouldn't have thought about it.
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Wow, ok, that's an impressive blob...
Can we have more details: what material were you using? Did it happen with the same material on all your printer? The same spool of material? Same printcores? What settings were you using? What did you try to print? Was there any other signs of troubles with your printers?
Do you keep your materials away from moisture, in a box with some desiccant or something? It is especially important for PLA and PVA, as those, especially PVA can go bad very quickly if left in the open for even a few days, depending on how humid it is where you live.
Did you service the printers recently to make sure there was no problem: cold and hot pulls on the cores to clean them, clean the bowden tubes, etc?
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Bon, le mois est passé, et je n'ai pas pu faire beaucoup de tests, entre mes clients et la SNCF qui m'empêche d'aller à mon atelier tous les jours...
Bref, j'ai un peu continué quand même, effectivement, augmenter la température a 220°C a beaucoup aidé. Je continue mes tests pour voir si 215°C ne serait pas plus adapté, et à quelle vitesse imprimer pour les meilleurs résultats. J'utilise ce cube car il s'imprime rapidement et permet de voir si les dimensions sont respectées ainsi que les divers problèmes comme le ringing autour des lettres.
Je posterais quelques photos et mes réglages quand j'aurais trouvé ceux qui me conviennent.
Avec la buse 0.6, je pense me limiter aux réglages pour du layer à 0.2, 0.3 et 0.4. Pour du 0.1, j'ai mes buses AA 0.4.
Après je pourrais me mettre à tester le wood et autres filaments spéciaux que j'ai depuis des mois...
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The Autodesk Inventor plugin is quite annoying: it will show a pop-up everytime I open CURA informing me that I either do not have Autodesk or need to register it.
I know that I do not have Autodesk on this computer, I just want to have the ability to open autodesk files with CURA if need be.
Is there a way to fix that and not have this annoying pop-up every time I open CURA?
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*Appreciative whistling.*
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What were you trying to print?
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I bought a second plate, I tend to remove it and just wait a bit until it cools down in the air. It will cool faster when when not on the heating bed anyway. I can usually hear the cracking sound as the PLA cools and detaches from the glass, it can sometimes make some quite loud sound when it's a big piece...
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One of my customers asked me to make mold in PVA for casting a small part in silicone, I haven't heard back from them, should send a mail to ask how it went...
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15 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
Qapla'!!
TODAY IS A GOOD DAY TO PRINT!
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5 minutes ago, geert_2 said:
These would fit well on the bar of a classy restaurant, as an eye catcher, I think.
I fully agree with that!
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You should keep it that way and sell it at an art show. 'Art Nouveau with 3D Printer!' ?
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Print with Nylon + PVA, definitely.
Nylon is very solid and resilient while still being flexible enough to be handled roughly without breaking. And it is made to be printed with PVA supports.
ABS is more solid than PLA, but it's much less flexible, and it will break much more easily when handled roughly, as kids can often do. Heck, I managed to break some ABS I've printed by twisting them just a bit.
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I'd say that this first attempt is very nice. Not too sure what caused the little problems on the arches, so I'll let the more expert people here have a look at it.
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Never tried with cardboard, bought an enclosure made with thick transparent plastic sheet things, works like a charm.
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ABS and PVA is labeled 'Experimental' by Ultimaker. Meaning that you can try it, but there's no guarantee that it will work. The only support that is guaranteed to work by UM with ABS is ABS.
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
*Appreciative whistle* You never cease to amaze with your intricate prints...