[Aluminum build plate delivery]

@Shadowman You do realize that barely two weeks passed since Sander's response and that poking them every few days serves no purpose and will not make their tests go any faster?

[BB 0.8mm print core]

A 0.8 core allows for faster print due to bigger flow at the cost of precision and details. If what you print is something that has simple geomatry and no tiny details, using 0.8 core will greatly speed up the printing process. That's the main advantage of it.

[glowing PLA]

I printed glowing PLA with an Everlast Ruby 0.6 core on my UM3E. Just had to increase temperature a bit to 220°C and it printed nicely.

[Another Camera issue UM3/cura]

I the printer is recent, contact customer service from your resseller.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

I didn't realized because I tend to use Connect out of habit. My mistake. I just tested and I have the same problem than you: selecting 'Override' in Cura does nothing and I need to use Connect to be able to effectively override and start my print.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

Thanks for fixing the Settings Guide. Although not every setting has a description yet, at least now it's no longer black text on black background when you're using the dark theme.

[Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Beta]

@Lammertus There's no hidden configuration or settings as far as I'm aware. If you want to fine tune your printer and check for dimension accuracy, you can use stl test files available on Youmagine or Thingiverse, like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 then tweak the various settings until you're satisfied that the printer runs within your margin of tolerance. That being said, the profiles for UM-brand material are quite good and should produce very accurate prints in most cases, knowing that outside conditions like the temperature and humidity in the printing room can affect the print. I recently printed quite a lot of the cube linked above as I tested various materials outside UM-brand ones, it's very useful to make sure you've fine-tuned your profile for a specific material.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

15 hours ago, ultradryan said:

 

about this version of CURA, the override option is not working on my computer, I click the override button, the warning popup asking if accept, I click ok, and nothing changed. The print is still not starting, requires actions and the override button still exists. I  hv to do it on CURA CONNECT in browser, is it me or anyone else hving the same issue?

 

And when i created a custom brand of material, it requires me to override settings every time I send print. Is this normal? because when I change (third party)filament i can only choose e.g. Generic PLA, is it not?

 

I will assume that you mean that the override option is not working on your printer, not on the computer.

 

That is normal behavior as far as I'm aware. The override is done via CURA Connect in the browser, trying to do it via the printer doesn't works despite the printer screen giving you the option to do it.

 

Same with custom materials since they exist only in Cura and not on the printer, thus you cannot select them on the printer itself.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

@DBlok Profiles for printers outside UM brand come from the community, UM do not make nor maintain those profiles. If you want to see the Craftbot plus into Cura, you can submit the specs and profile to the UM team, or find someone who created a custom profile for that printer and have them submit it for inclusion in a future release.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

I haven't tested the latest release yet (3.6) but it should have profiles for the Ruby core in it. Else, you can easily create your own setting by changing the Line Width to 0.55 or 0.6 directly in Cura. And you'll probably have to print hotter to account for the higher volume of material coming out of the printhead compared to a 0.4.

[Now available: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Stable]

It is compatible with the UM3/E, you're only going to wear your feeder, and maybe the bowden tubes, faster if you use a lot of abrasive materials, but you can find alternatives feeder (bondtech) that can be installed on the UM3 and are made to withstand abrasive materials.

[Print Core CC | Red for Ruby]

I'm always amazed by the pricing disparity between countries for the exact same product, not counting taxes.

 

385 CAN is 258,6€, which is already a steep price, and one I cannot really justify at the moment. But the retail price in Europe is 295€, which translates as 439,2 CAN. This is without taxes, as we Europeans have to add 20% on top for VAT.

 

So, don't complain too much @JohnInOttawa, you can get it for significantly cheaper than us poor souls in the EU! ??

 

Joke aside, the price itself will make this CC Red core a niche product.

[Importing STL into Sketchup]

I would recommend ditching Sketchup and using something else, like Blender. Blender is a bit harder to learn and use than Sketchup, but the results are so much better. I've designed a few things in Blender, and printed more things designed in Blender then exported as STL into CURA with no troubles with the models.

 

I say Blender because it is free, but there are many alternatives out there, most of them requiring to be bought though.

 

As for your other problem, I'm' not quite sure. If that's supposed to be a wall made with the second color, I'd guess that this is massive underextrusion, since I don't see the dreaded spaghetti all around the model. Have you checked that the settings for both extruders are the same? Also checked your feeders or the spool to make sure that the filament is moving correctly?

 

You should open a dedicated subject for that problem, there are people with far more knowledge about such problems that could give you a better answer and solution.

 

 

[How to print Building using Cura]

Look around the forums, you'll find several threads with explanations. Plus on the UM blogs as well.

[Importing STL into Sketchup]

@XYZDesignPro Sketchup can read and export STL files, but their stl files are notoriously messy. I've had more than one customer submit stl files from sketchup that needed to be corrected or outright redone given how badly the model looked once put in CURA: missing layers and trouble telling what is inside and outside where two mesh would meet resulting in empty spots instead of walls where the biggest troubles I've had with STL from Sketchup.

 

@Florisvh It would indeed be easier to ask the architect for the files at the right format so you can print them, or maybe if he could send you the various elements as separate files so you can print them one by one?

 

That being said, the extra lines shouldn't affect the quality of the print or prevent you from cutting the model in parts. They're a visual annoyance, that's all.

 

I'd also suggest suing a real 3D modeling software like Blender to make proper cuts of your model. You can find many tutorials online explaining how to use the tools available in Blender for cutting complex mesh like yours in several pieces without completely destroying it.

[How to print Building using Cura]

You can use the support blocker feature and position to blocker over the windows so it won't print support there. Just make sure your printer is set up well and can manage to bridge the distance without affecting the quality of the print.

[Ultimaker's pva problem]

Same here than Ultiarjan: I successfully used Nylon with PVA many times.

[[CURA] Déclarer de nouvelles buses.]

C'est très dommage, en effet. Je me demande si on ne peut pas transférer ces données via l'add-on backup.

 

Sinon on peut toujours les copier depuis l'ancien dossier vers le nouveau, puisque CURA n'efface pas les anciennes données dans le dossier Ultimaker CURA de la version antérieure à l'upgrade.

[Excellent site but I have a photo question]

That's a known intermittent bug that was supposed to have been solved, as far as I can remember. Although I did have some troubles with pictures myself recently.

 

@SandervG can you confirm that the bug with the pictures is supposed to have been solved? And look into TwoDrunkOwls problem? Thanks!

[[CURA] Déclarer de nouvelles buses.]

Merci pour l'information @lekid. J'aurais une question en plus: est-ce que le fichier de la nouvelle buse sera copié quand j'upgrade CURA ou je devrais l'exporter manuellement?

[Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Beta]

I'll join the others on this thread in saying that I'm surprised that UM decided not to dedicate the time and energy to make settings for the new CC core for all of the UM materials and not just the new abrasive ones. While I do understand that the main goal of the CC core is to have one in-house core that can deal with abrasive, and not force people to rely on external products like the Everlast cores from 3D-Solex, the fact remains that this diminishes the usefulness of the new CC core.

 

I did bought an Everlast, and I was considering buying a CC to have two 0.6 cores, which would allow me to use the dual-extrusion feature of my UM3E with 0.6 cores, not only for abrasives, but also for PLA and all the other materials. Being able to print with thicker layers is helpful with some materials like HDglass, thicker layers means better transparency in this case, or speed up printing on models that do not have fine details.

 

While it was understood that I would have to play with settings for my Everlast, and I send a heartfelt thanks to the members of this forum who helped with that directly or indirectly, having to play with settings for a core that is made by UM for UM feels very strange and not in line with the way UM advertises their products as 'plug-and-play', or close enough.

 

Since this is a beta version, is there any chance that we expect UM to add profiles for the CC for all of it's materials, and not just the new abrasive ones, before the official release of CURA 3.6?

 

Also, as a completely unrelated side note, looking at the new gyroid infill in the screenshot provided makes my eyes glitch... Curse you @smartavionics! ?  (More seriously, thanks for your work on this! ? )

[Failed prints from new UM3]

Chosing PVA material should automatically set the Support Roof at 0, so it will create a nice platform upon whihc your PLA will be printed. Of course, layer height counts as well, and the aspect will be much better at 0.06 than at 0.2.

 

As for drying PVA, my opinion is that 24h is not enough. I've waited a week before reusing my 'wet' PVA, giving ample time for the desiccant to suck up all the moisture from the roll and I used another new roll that I had to print stuff. The 'wet' PVA still had some tiny problems, but it was like a few spots with drop-sized patches of moisture which had no effect on the support as a whole, or the print.

 

Quite impressively, support made of PVA can recover from bad spots. Like, if a couple centimeters of support do not stick to the build plate, but the rest does, then it's usually fine because, as layers upon layers of PVA are piled upon the bad spot, it sort of smooth it out and the support as a whole does it's job perfectly. I can't count the number of times where I spotted a small defect in the support, let the print run it's course and it came out with no problem at all, the defect being corrected or buried by the following layers of PVA.

[Post your latest print!]

That's incredible. What are your tools of choice: hardware and software?

[PVA Strings between a print job and a prime tower]

16 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:

Just for time and material differences, would you mind doing a slice with the tower and without to demonstrate that difference? That was a big statue and I can imagine how that would accrue over the total print.

 

The statue is about 20cm tall. I don't have the stl file at the moment to give precise numbers, but, if memory serves, the print I did was 1 day and 20 hours without the tower, and close to 3 days with one. The statue is tall but thin, so I think the tower added quite a lot of material to it. I'll check if I can find the file on my other computer to compare and post precise numbers.

[PVA Strings between a print job and a prime tower]

4 hours ago, coduy said:

hi there, I used recommended temperature for PVA. At least in Cura that I have: 225C : PVA Fast Profile,  220C: PVA Normal Profile, 215C PVA Fine Profile. 

 

So I have been using Fast profile since the beginning. Next time I will lower the temperature to see if this helps. Thanks. 

 

You're very right, I didn't check what profile I was looking at when checking the temperature for PVA.

 

Prime towers can be useful but, at least in the case of printing PVA and PLA together, they're not really needed as the settings in CURA are very good and you get very little troubles when using those two materials together. I've recently printed a nice sculpture for a customer, a fantasy character that required quite a lot of support with 0.06 layer to keep the looks and make the curves as best looking as possible, and I didn't use a prime tower.

 

Printing lasted about two days, the print came out beautifully and with very little surface defects, nothing that couldn't be fixed by a bit of cleaning.