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Brulti

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Posts posted by Brulti

    For future Cura 3.5 ideas

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    You're welcome. ?

     

    I'm of the opinion that resizing that is not constant in all three axis should be done in a CAD program. Resizing all will change distances indeed, but I'm not sure how that's a problem when printing one part. And if printing several parts, CURA has a built-in feature to make sure all the pieces are kept apart. You have to fiddle a bit with placement but it isn't impossible to do.

     

    Besides, FDM printers being what they are, I think it's best to print one part at a time anyway, except for maybe very small parts.

    For future Cura 3.5 ideas

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Conical support structures exist and are currently listed under the Experimental tab in CURA: 'Enable Conical Support'. Then you can chose the angle of the support and it's minimum width.

     

    I'm not too sure why you would want to measure the distance between two parts of the same object in CURA and not measure it beforehand in whatever CAD program you're using? I'm not even sure why you want to measure anything in CURA, except maybe to check if the part will print at the right size? Though it's usually obvious when CURA translates measurements in millimeters because your part is reduced to a tiny group of pixels on the plate and you just need to scale it to 1000% to get the real size.

     

     

    Ultimaker 3 : Filament PVA coincé dans le feeder

    in Français

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, niamor2 said:

     

    Donc il faut ranger la bobine dans son sachet après chaque impression ?

     

    Oui, dans son sachet ou dans une boite avec du dessicant ou un absorbeur d'humidité quelconque. Le PLA et le Nylon sont aussi sensibles à l'humidité, quoique beaucoup moins que le PVA. Il faut garder le PVA en dessous de 55% d'humidité pour éviter qu'il s’altère, le mien est a environ 30% dans sa boite et je n'ai aucun soucis.

     

    J'ai acheté plusieurs grandes boites de rangements en plastique transparent avec couvercle, j'y mets mes rouleaux avec un gros machin absorbeur d'humidité, et je suis tranquille.

     

    Même pendant l'impression, il est conseillé de garder le PVA dans une boite. Si tu à des impressions longues, une journée voir plus, le PVA va s'abimer car il est exposé à l'air libre. Utilise une drybox, et tu ne devrais plus avoir de problèmes. Fais une recherche sur 'drybox' sur le forum, tu trouveras plusieurs discussions sur le sujet avec différentes solutions. Je sais que les revendeurs d'imprimantes 3D proposent des drybox, mais tu peux aussi fabriquer la tienne assez facilement et pour beaucoup moins cher. Le plus dur en France, c'est de trouver des absorbeurs d'humidité qui ne soient pas énormes, le gel de silice que les Américains utilisent est pratiquement introuvable ici...

    Impression bi matière

    in Français

    Posted

    Je ne me suis jamais servi de Solidworks, mais, visiblement, les cylindres ne sont pas de la même dimension. Ou, plutôt, le cylindre est déformé pour une raison quelconque. Le modéle sur l'image a l'air correct, donc peut-être un souci lors de l'exportation en stl?

     

    Tu devrais vérifier que la base et le haut du cylindre ont bien le même diamètre et sont bien ronds.

    Impression bi matière

    in Français

    Posted

    C'est normal que ça ne rentre pas, en tout cas pour les fichiers que tu a fourni: le bout qui doit rentrer dans le trou n'est pas parfaitement circulaire, donc CURA rentre ce qu'il peut dans le trou puis s'arrête. Il faut que tu revois tes modèles 3D.

     

    trou.thumb.png.5e34d9a38f2cbe9ec573365f502b89cc.png

    Ultimaker 3 : Filament PVA coincé dans le feeder

    in Français

    Posted

    Démonte le feeder avec le tournevis fourni avec l'imprimante, fais attention de ne pas perdre les petites pièces comme le ressort ou le petit anneau métallique du dessous, qui guide le filament, nettoie bien le tout et remonte-le.

     

    Ton PVA a absorbé l'humidité ambiante et il s'est ramolli, d'où tes problèmes. Le rouleau de filament n'est peut-être pas perdu, cela dit. Tu peux essayer de le sauver en le faisant sécher à basse température dans un four (60-70° max, sauf erreur de ma part), en le mettant dans ton imprimante si tu a un capot qui permet de la fermer complètement (tu met la température du plateau a 50° et tu le laisse pendant quelques heures, ou en le mettant dans un boite hermétiquement fermée avec du dessicant pendant quelques jours.

     

    J'ai réussi à sauver une demi-bobine de PVA avec la méthode du dessicant personnellement, j'ai laisser la bobine dans sa boite pendant environ une semaine et j'ai pu m'en resservir après sans trop de soucis.

    weak print with too strong support

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    You will be able to get your production going, once you've gotten to know the printer and fine-tuned it to fit your needs. Not before, not right out of the box as you expected. So, in that way, yes, the printed failed short of your expectations, but I'm afraid that your expectations were slightly unrealistic.

     

    Took me months to get to know my UM3E and fine-tune it as I wanted. Nowadays, most of my prints come out as they should, and what fails is usually my fault (bad orientation, glass bed not clean enough, and so on). I've made big sheets with instructions on how to print every material available from UM, do I need glue, brim, the enclosure and so on, and began creating profiles in CURA for non-UM materials and began testing with a hardcore for abrasives. Now it works quite well, and my production runs quite smoothly, but it's been about a year since I got the printer, and I fumbled and stumbled for a while. This forum bears witness to some of my troubles, and the community here has been invaluable in helping me overcome some problems and find solutions.

     

    There is a learning curve with everything, you need to follow it.

    Cracking/popping of PVA filament

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    ABS as support is a bad idea in my opinion, because ABS is a chore to remove...

     

    I use dryboxes for storage and printing, and it solved all my problems with PVA. And PVA is quite a nice support because you can put it for 20-30 mins in water, and it comes out easily when you're printing flat surfaces. Just finished one such prints for a customer and one little tugging was all I needed to remove big pieces of PVA from the flat surfaces of the print. You can't do that with ABS.

    Cracking/popping of PVA filament

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted · Edited by Brulti

    I found out that you can also solve this by putting the PVA in a plastic bag with some desiccant and wait a couple days for the desiccant to absorb all the moisture. Saved half a roll of PVA this way, whihc I was quite happy about given how expensive PVA is...

    weak print with too strong support

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    From what you said, @Flutelab, it feels like you were expecting something that was plug-and-play, or hit-print-and-forget, to be more accurate. I'm afraid that, unfortunately, the technology available to us for 3D printing isn't yet at this level of refinement, and probably won't be until we manage to invent something resembling the replicators in Star Trek which manipulates matter at the atomic level and uses micro-gravitational field as support for things that need it.

     

    No matter what brand of printer you buy, or what kind of technology you chose to use, you will always have to fiddle with the settings to achieve the results you're looking for, make test to see with your eyes how the material you're using works in certain situation, and need tools to remove support in some situations. It's a simple fact of the 3D printing technology at the moment.

     

    Ultimaker has done a very awesome job creating generic profiles for their materials, but they're generic and thus they'll require fiddling to fit your particular needs. And, so far, I've been very satisfied with their filaments, but I've spent countless hours doing some testing to see how they react in certain situations, the effects of support, dual extrusion and so on, to get the experience and the answers.

     

    If you're not ready to spend time before the print, to prepare it, and after the print, to clean it and such, maybe 3D printing is not for you.

    • Like 1

    Ultimaker s5 or 3?

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    From personal experience, flexible material wouldn't fit the bill for printing organs. I've printed with TPU 95 and realized that it was very good for neat geometric designs, but the material is too viscous for printing organic shapes nicely. You'll end up with little blobs and stringing and such everywhere.

     

    As @gr5 said, I believe that mold and cast would be your best solution.

    • Like 1
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