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Brulti

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Posts posted by Brulti

    Ultimaker Cura 4.0 | Stable available!

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    @steelhorsemodels I found out that active leveling isn't really needed on UM3E. If you do a good job with a manual leveling, active leveling becomes useless and is just a waste of time at the start of a print. The leveling will need to be redone after a time, of course, but you're good for many prints before it becomes an issue if you did the manual leveling well the first time.

     

    I would advise to not use the leveling card sent with the printer, but get something like this: https://www.makershop.fr/outils-et-accessoires/1476-cales-mecaniques-005mm-1mm.html

    In my personal experience, I would often need to redo the manual leveling once or twice with the card before it was good. The card is soft, gets easily bent on the side if it hits the printhead when it is a bit too low, and the feeling for the kind of pressure there is is hard to tell. With those metal cards things (which I got by mistake, was a misclick that I didn't saw when I placed my order), I never had to redo the manual calibration, one time was enough, and the thing is hard and gives a much better feeling for the pressure coming from the printhead.

    FormFutura HDGlass Blue is warping.

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Hello everyone,

     

    I'm trying to print with HDGlass Blue from FormFutura, but I'm having some trouble with warping. From what I've read, HDGlass shouldn't require glue or tape and should stick to the bed nicely.

    I'm not sure if I should change the printing temperature or the temperature of the glass bed, I've looked online but got many conflicting information. I'll be experimenting with the temperatres, but I'd appreciate any advice or hindsight for those of you who are using or used it.

     

    I've cleaned my glass bed thoroughly, so there shouldn't be any residue on it that could cause the warping. The spool is kept in a dry box, so it's unlikely that it got moist, humidity is around 30% in the box. I'm attaching the profile I'm currently using, it's for a Hardcore 0.6, thus the layer at 0.3 and the line width at 0.55.

     

    Thanks

    HD Glass Hardcore 0.6.curaprofile

    Casting Nylon to Silicon Mold

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    I sent the mold in PVA directly to the customer, with no post-treatment. He did not try to smooth it, and the layer lines did appear on his silicon object, but it was only for a proof of concept I believe, so he did not need it to be smooth.

     

    The PVA held remarkably well, according to the customer, when he poured the liquid silicon through the holes into the mold, and it was tight enough that there was no leak; the mold was in two parts that assembled together.

     

    I sent it with a silicon packet because I was afraid it would get soft due to humidity during transport, but it did not.

    Un petit café (ou autre) entre amis

    in Français

    Posted

    C'est ma combo: Blender + UM3E. 😉

    Ca fonctionne très bien pour le moment, même si Blender n'est pas le plus adapté pour des modélisations de choses techniques très précises, et surtout les modifications. Je vais jeter un œil a Designspark Mechanical, ça m'a l'air plus adapté pour les choses très techniques, et il y a une version gratuite qui me semble bien suffisante quand on est pas ingénieur.

    Aluminum build plate update

    in Official news

    Posted · Edited by Brulti

    On 12/19/2018 at 4:34 PM, SandervG said:

    since we're talking about quite a number of glass plates we aim to have all additional glass plates shipped out before the end of Q1. 

     

    So, you should be getting before May 1st.

    How to save end of spools?

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    Hello,

     

    I've just finished a print and I find myself with a tiny bit of PVA on the spool, maybe a couple meters at most, which doesn't allow me to do much with it. I would hate to have to throw it away, and I was wondering if there a way to save it? As in, for example, find a way to sort of 'fuse' it with the beginning of a new spool of PVA?

     

    The question also works with any material basically, given that, since I have a UM3E, there will always be a bit of filament left due to the length of the bowden tube.

     

    I'd like a solution that would be easy to implement at home, I'm not that much of a handyman, though I might be interested in any device that could help.

     

    Thanks

    Comment ne pas perdre une fin de rouleau de filament?

    in Français

    Posted

    Bonjour,

     

    J'ai un rouleau de PVA qui arrive au bout, il doit en rester un peu plus de deux mètres, ce qui donne environ 1,5m utilisable en comptant la longueur du tube bowden de mon UM3E. Vu le prix du PVA, j'aimerais assez ne pas perdre ces quelques mètres de matériau et pouvoir les coller/fusionner/autre avec un rouleau neuf. Ça me permettrait aussi de ne pas avoir plusieurs rouleaux de filaments presque fini qui trainent dans mes armoires.

     

    Quelles solutions existent pour répondre à mon problème? Je recherche plutôt des solutions 'fait maison', assez simples et pratiques, que des appareils qu'on peut acheter en magasin.

     

    Même questions pour les autres types de filaments: PLA, Nylon, etc...

     

    Merci.

    How to dual print with a 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle?

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted · Edited by Brulti

    Hello,

     

    I want to try and do a dual print using woodfill and standard PLA. I have one Hardcore Everlast 0.6 for abrasive like the woodfill, bought before the CC core was made and sold by UM.

     

    So, since I have only one Hardcore, and can't buy another one at the moment, I'll have to use the standard AA 0.4 as the second nozzle for the PLA.

     

    Would that create some problems and is there anything specific I should do to ensure a smooth printing?

     

    I have created specific profiles in CURA to print the various abrasives I tested with the Hardcore 0.6, won't that create some problems in CURA since line width is not the same for the two cores?

     

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Brim line partialy loose after a couple of lines (PLA)

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    On 2/22/2019 at 5:58 PM, paburk said:

    Can I ask you how you calibrate your table? Do you use the Ultimaker calibration card (0.15mm) or do you use a 0.1mm paper? I still suspect that the calibration is off.

     

    I was using the calibration card, but I often had to adjust it as @gr5 advises. Now, I'm using a metallic calibration plate. I never intended to buy it, it was a misclick when buying stuff on the site, and I didn't check once I was done. But, I found it to be quite more precise than the calibration card, and I did not had to adjust the screws so far after using this to calibrate my bed.

     

    Also, for cleaning the glass bed, I would advise to sue the yellow window cleaner from Karcher,

    That's what I'm using and it works wonder, even to dissolve remnants from PVA after a print or glue from a stick.

    Feature Request: multi-extruder, single nozzle, without prime tower

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    That's interesting but you run the risk of the part being knocked over when the priming is done on the inside and the printhead is wiped against the inner walls. Or to have small bits of filament sticking out of your part and messing up the layers and the coloring, in case the priming isn't perfect and tehre's still some leakage.

     

    It's been suggested to UM to make the prime tower conical: wider at the base and thinner at the top, to give it even more stability with the round shape, I do not know if this is on their todolist and would be implemented in Cura 4.0 or later, or maybe it is on list of things that would be nice to code but are not considered that important.

     

     

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