Smithy
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Posts posted by Smithy
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Hmm, you need definitely an external heater to bring the printer environment to 20-25°. So the cover you have linked will not work, it will be better but not enough.
Do you have the possibility to build a small print room within this basement and put a small heater inside, just to heat this area? I don't know the word in Englisch, but I mean to use these plaster panels (hope you know what I mean)
Or if not possible to build a bigger box of wood, but not just for the printer, higher that you can put a small table inside and a small heater.
Another idea, but just an idea, not sure if it really works, if you put a radiant heater beside the printer, which should just heat up the area around the printer and only during printing. They are normally quite fast with their ventilation.
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1 hour ago, Digibike said:
Also, dass Haarspray von Aldi funzt recht gut
Welches ist das genau, wir haben ja in Österreich keinen Aldi, sondern den Hofer, zwar das selbe Unternehmen, aber wer weiß ob die Produkte auch gleich sein.
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Versuch macht "kluch" 🙂
Es gab da einmal irgendwo einen Artikel oder Thread wo jemand einige Marken Haarspray getestet hat. Manche haben funktioniert, manche nicht und bei den Nichtfunktionierenden waren auch extra starke dabei. Kann man glaube ich nur probieren.
Die meisten Infos über Haarsprays und 3D Drucker sind leider alle USA lastig und die Marken bekommt man bei uns nicht.
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46 minutes ago, MarkusP said:
Dann habe ich noch Haarspray auf die Glasplatte gesprüht
Haarspray kann, muss aber nicht funktionieren, es kommt stark auf die Marke und das Produkt an. Die speziellen Sprays, sind wahrscheinlich auch einem Haarspray ähnlich, funktionieren aber. (kosten aber auch das Mehrfache eines Haarsprays 🙂 )
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I guess you have a problem with your STL file (not watertight), because it is also strange that you have this red part in the solid view, which normally indicates an overhang.
Check the x-ray view in Cura if you see some red parts there, if so, then your model has some defects.
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No, I would not set CPE+, because it prints with higher temperature. You can use CPE+ for Colorfabb HT.
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17 hours ago, cloakfiend said:
Because we are still waiting for the aluminum build plate for the S5, I see you have found an alternative for it in the meantime 🙂 A more expensive one 🙂
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Another lady, expected to be finished in the next minutes. But I am not sure if I should post a picture after she is "undressed" from PVA here in the forum. 🙂
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3 minutes ago, jens3 said:
Currently the drive shows up in my 'files' browser as smb://computername/sharename.
Yes and that's the problem I guess. Your network drive shows up in your file browser, but it is not mounted. You can access the drive, because the file browser will do the work for you, but to have the network share available for applications and so on, you have to mount it.
I am using Linux only on servers, without a desktop, so I cannot help you how to do it, but on the command line you add a line to /etc/fstab to mount a filesystem and you have to save where you want to mount it, normally /mnt/whatever
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For loading the material you can choose CPE material, which is very similar to XT.
Regarding settings, I don't do much special, I choose the generic CPE profile in Cura and then only tune these settings:
- Turn off combing (set combing mode to off)
- Set all speeds to 40mm/sec
- Depending on the result maybe increase the temperature about 5-10°
That's it.
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So this will be the "prosthetic" arm for the lady. I guess you glue them together (ofc the version with the longer fingers) because you will plate it anyway?
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Thanks for following up and great that your printer is now working again.
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How have you mounted your network drives? Are they mounted?
A network drive is mounted in the local filesystem, so you should see the mount point in Cura. (/mnt/.. or something like that)
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Is the printer waiting for an action or was the print aborted and the printer is now waiting for the next job?
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Thanks for the follow-up, please keep us informed.
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Do you get an error or some other message after confirming?
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You are right, there is spool holder for UM3 and for the UM2Go only. Not sure at the moment if the UM2Go is the same for UM2 and UM2+, I assume it is, but not 100% sure.
You can find it here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Go/tree/master/1718
And a STEP file can be imported into any CAD software and then exported as STL, so that is ok.
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Offiziell vorgesehen sind dazu ja die Adhesion Sheets und mit denen geht es sehr gut, hatte keine Probleme. Aber ich verstehe schon, dass wenn man hauptsächlich ABS druckt, die Folien dann irgenwann nerven.
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Thanks for the feedback!
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Can you please more specific and write in whole sentences, what is your problem and what have you already tried. Just posting a gcode is not very useful.
Thanks!
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3 minutes ago, Muko said:
Sein Gerät mit Haarspray zu versauen ist halt auch nicht so cool.
Man sollte natürlich die Glasplatte herausnehmen und nicht im Gerät sprühen 🙂
4 minutes ago, Muko said:Ich drucke fast ausschließlich ABS
Ja dann macht es schon Sinn sich etwas zu "basteln".
Ansonsten bin ich aber mit der Glasplatte sehr zufrieden, habe in keinem meiner Drucker etwas verändert. Ich finde es auch sehr praktisch, dass die Glasplatte schnell zu entnehmen ist. D.h. ein Druck ist fertig, ich entnehme die Glasplatte, setze eine andere Glasplatte wieder ein und weiter gehts. Somit muss ich nicht warten bis die Platte abgekühlt ist etc.
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Vorne geht das recht gut mit dem Tool, hinten etwas schwieriger weil du nicht gut dazu kommst, aber so genau muss es nicht sein, Ungefähr reicht da schon.
Und ja, dein Abstand ist zu groß.
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Na das sind tolle Neuigkeiten, jetzt kannst du dich endlich auch mit dem Drucken beschäftigen. Aber trotz aller Mühe und Ärger, kennst du deinen Drucker nun schon ziemlich gut und kannst beim nächsten Problem davon profitieren. Also positiv sehen! 🙂
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You should find it on Github https://github.com/Ultimaker somewhere in the UM2 or UM2+ repository.
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
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A little bit, but it still fits in the category "sexy" and not more. But she is still taking a bath to get rid of her "clothes" 🙂
Nothing special, I just used the default settings, haven't changed anything. But if you increase the horizontal support expansion just a little bit, then much more support is used. It depends on the model, if PVA support can be completely build up from the build plate, then it is fine, if you have PVA which sticks only to PLA somewhere at the model, then you have to increase the support expansion to get thicker support which is then (hopefully) touching the build plate.
No, currently not.