Carla_Birch
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Posts posted by Carla_Birch
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If you got a 0.4 nozzle i would have line width set to 0.4 or a little lower like 0.38. For flow i would try it at 100% to see if the gaps get smaller.
Why you might have calibrated the flow rate, so items you print need settings tweaked for them.
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That can be down to a number of settings to be true. Some common ones to try to play with are:
- Skin Overlap Percentage (How much the skin overlaps into the wall path)
- Line Width (You can make the line width a little bit wider so its more likely to close the gaps)
- Flow (Could be to low so you not getting the true Line Width you have set)
- Retraction (Could not be set right so when its doing small paths its not starting off right away)
I would personally play with the Skin Overlap and Line Width settings first.
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1 hour ago, ShinerG said:
Hi Carla, thanks for that. Sorry, I'm only seeing this there now. I posted this queastion on the FB Ultimkaer Owners group at the same time. Erin Oliver got back to me, to say to turn off any plugin-ins. I had a post-process gcode script plugin active to display the line height on the LCD. Once I turned this off, it printed just as before. 🙂
Good to see you got it fixed 🙂
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On 10/10/2020 at 10:17 PM, Belezeebub said:
Other then build volume are there any differences between the S3 and the S5?
Second question is an S6 due out anytime soon ie before end of the year.
They are basically the same, apart from build size. But keep in mind the S5 you can also get official Ultimaker Air Manager & Material Station, where of right now the S3 don't have any official ones.
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Have you tired to print another stl file to see if you get the same problem?
Also if you can a few photos to show just what you mean by it messing up the print, as that can give clues to whats going on.
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6 hours ago, JJdaflyguy22 said:
Hello everyone, I have a A6-L 3D printer but was unable to find the software for it on the ultimaker website. Does anyone have this?
On the Cura downloads page you will find a text link under the latest version download button to view all versions, but to save you a few clicks here is the direct link to the Cura version you are after: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/14.07
But can i ask why you want a version that's 6 years old, when the latest most up todate version supports the Anet A6?
https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura
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Under "Build Plate Adhesion" settings, you can edit them settings to make the grey area's smaller, turning "Build Plate Adhesion type" settings to "None" will fully remove the grey area's.
Or you can edit the Skirt, Brim & Raft settings to keep some type of adhesion settings why making the grey area's smaller to give self more printing room.
Basic Preset settings:
Set to None:
Edited Settings:
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9 hours ago, smorgana said:
Wow! That was it.
I put on a new bowden tube because I could not figure out how to get the jammed filament out of the old one. Also bought a new nozzle just in case.
I went to do the atomic method to clear the old nozzle before taking it out, and realized the printer was silent. The top fan on the printhead was not spinning.. I gave it a push and it started spinning.So right now it will spin if I turn the printer of and on.. but it's not sounding like a good spinning fan.
ah... something is impeding the fan...
You get little strings from some filament that get into the fan and wrap around it, best to give the fan a good clean and pull any strings out. If its all clean and still not sounding right then i would replace it as its a cheap but very key part of the printer.
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The latest version of S3D (4.1) as support for the S5 built in, but like @Smithy says it’s a little bit on the basic side next to using Cura and will only support the printer itself and that’s why I moved to Cura, only keep SSD for my flashforge printers as no working profiles for Cura.
If you need a profile for older version of S3D, try this.
This is working profiles for AA/AA cores and AA/BB cores. 0.4mm btw
- Download the attached file and unzip.
- Open Simplify3D, go to File > Import FFF Profile, and navigate to the saved profile. This will import the settings into the software.
- To start using these new settings, click Edit Process Settings, and the choose the new entry at the very bottom of the Select Profile drop down list.
- After creating your .gcode file, import the gcode into Ultimaker Cura then click save. This will create your UFP file which can be printed on the S5.
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If it’s working in a old version of Cura still, but then you get the problem with the latest version, it might be a good idea to upload the gcode from both so can compare one vs the other.
Also if you upload your project file from the latest version of Cura, people will be able to view all the settings, that way if the gcode shows different lines of code at the start people could see if it’s a setting or a bug.
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Hi,
where you posted is for feedback on the Ultimaker website, so not many will have viewed this with it being in the wrong place.
Anyway a fast search of the snapmaker forums come up with this information for you: https://forum.snapmaker.com/t/profiles-for-snapmaker-2-0/5624/19
this is all the info and settings you need to get Cura set up and running.
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3 hours ago, icruma said:
Thank you for the feedback.
So you are basically saying that your oldest Ultimaker has at least 7.200 printing hours?
Yep that's right, it can be printing almost none stop of days on end, so it don't get much of a break, thats's why i had to get a 2nd to spread the print load so i can give them a break now and then (and so i can use them for myself also and not just orders)
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I would check the front cooling fan is spinning and working right if the filament had grown a ring around it outside of the print core, as you might have had heat creep due to front fan not working/spinning free.
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A lot of it is down to factors like the type of filament you print because some printer much hotter, wear stuff more. Then you got the setting the printer is in.
I likely have a good 300-400+ days of printing (thats printing hours) on my oldest and its totally fine and not needed anything doing to it yet and its over 2 years old. But that's mostly printing PLA, PVA, Break away, PETG.
Only thing i did was replace the bowden tubes end of last year as the maintenance says, even know i had no problems.
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that could be a problem with the model itself, could you upload the stl for it?
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No problem, happy to hear your prints fine and happy going along printing again 🙂
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7 minutes ago, paxpring said:
Hi again!
I have a question regarding an issue with the UM S5. I started a print yesterday to run overnight, somehow the filament broke and as a result the machine "ran out" of filament. The bed is till at 60 degrees and the nozzle at 30.
I found some existing topics on this issue but people there tell to pause the print and to unload the old and load new filament. I tried to do this but (1) the print job has already automatically been paused and (2) the unload button for the material in question is greyed out. My last resort would have been to pull out the filament manually but unfortunately the nozzle has cooled down to 30.
I ran out of options.
Hi,
You don't press the unload button when you have run out of filament, when you run out of filament and the prints auto paused you go to the filament thats run out and press the "change" button to change out the spool.
The unload button is for just removing a spool and not loading a new one for when you are printing and only needing one print core so you can store your other spool somewhere. The load button is for when you wish to load a spool back onto the printer. This is why both the load and unload are greyed out when printing.
When changeing spool always use the "change" button.
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I would personally dry PVA for a good 8-10 hours if you have had problems with that spool, it takes in so much water so fast that it needs a real good dry.
I would also look into getting a dry box or something to store the PVA in even why you print, the polybox is good for this. I personally use breakaway myself now with PLA because i don't have a problem with what i print needing support in places i can not get to, so i print with supports as PLA and the floor and roof of the supports with Break away.
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3 hours ago, guna said:
Thanks Carla its working. May i know the reason and how to solve the issue.
What did you do to get it working again?
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1 hour ago, guna said:
Hi,
I am also facing same issue but only with PLA material.
Have you tired the above?
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That's likely due to the walls of the model being to thin to do a single extrusion width at them points.
If you turn on "Print thin walls" from under the "Shell" settings it might help, you can also try a smaller nozzle size. Other then that, it would need the model to be made thicker walled.
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It helps, to post the errors you get and at what stage you get them, if you getting errors when auto leveling runs, try uploading a video of what happens.
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First off have you tired to do hot and cold pulls on the print core incase its blocked? If you have and filament extrudes when doing the cleaning, but then when you print it don't extrude. then you should be looking at settings and the feeder.
Have you tired the printcore in slot 2 with the same filament to see if you still get the same problem? If it works fine in slot 2 then i would check the feeder on slot 1 to check its clean and all working fine. Also check the tentsion.
Also the more information you give, the better people can help to see if anything looks wrong, eg type of filament, settings, what the filament looks like thats been in the feeder (should have little indents in it where its been gripped).
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Hi, is this a problem thats started after having worked fine or is it a new printer?
A few things can make the active leveling fail:
- The manually leveled bed can be done up to tight, when look at the print bed from the front, you want like a 1mm gap i think it is between the the frame and the glass, if its lower back the adjustment off to get the gap and manual level again, then try auto leveling.
- Electrical interference, from items close to the printer. So try moving any other electric items away from the printer to see if any of them have been behind interference with the S5 sensor.
Problem with gaps between the inner wall and the filling in the top layer
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted · Edited by Carla_Birch
When you said you had the flow set to 100% and it started to skip steps, have you checked the Vref of the extruder stepper motor at all to check it’s getting the right power?
I don’t have a ender so I can not really say for sure just what the Vref should be set around for it, but if it’s to low it can make it skip steps when trying to push the filament out.