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pdzamore

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  1. Can you ship it to Massachusetts? Phil
  2. You can definitely print these in iON nylon (a nylon/ABS alloy from 3DXTech) but I tried a few other filaments and wasn’t happy with the results. You’ll need to use soluble support and a very fine layer height. PM me and I’ll reply with a download link for the files. But I did go ahead and order four pairs of MJF printed housings of my latest revision. (Ordering 4 was $10 more expensive than ordering just 1!) so if you are willing to provide me with detailed feedback on the housings, I’d be happy to send a pair to you for beta testing. I didn’t order front and rear covers, but you can print those yourself if you want them. They help keep dust out, but aren’t strictly needed. Phil
  3. I upgraded to the Bondtech QR's also. I've built custom housings for the flow sensors. These hang below the Bondtech extruders. My plan is to share it with the community, but the design needs a few minor tweaks to make filament loading easier—right now really stiff support filaments like BVOH are very hard to thread from the flow sensor to the Bondtech where the two holes are back-to-back. My design needs a few parts from McMaster-Carr and some threaded inserts from eBay: (2) M3 x 4 x 4 mm Brass Threaded Inserts (2) M3 x 0.5 x 14 mm Stainless Steel Flat Head Screw (2) M3 x 0.5 x 16 mm Plastic Knob Shoulder Thumbscrew (2) M3 x 10 mm Buttonhead Cap Screw (92095A182) (2) M3 Washer (93475A210) I also replaced the springs with stiffer ones, The rest of the parts are recycled from the UM S5 flow sensors (bearings, plastic arms, PCB). I had the final (well, the almost final) cases printed at 3D Hubs by MJF, which is a bit cheaper and nicer than SLS. But you can print these with an 0.25 mm nozzle at 0.1 mm layer height. They just are a bit fragile at the post that holds the bearing (outside) and the threaded inserts (inside it). I can share my Fusion 360 files if people want to play with them. The problem with these kinds of hacks is that hardware is never sold in packs of two! So if anyone wants to reimburse me for the cost of printing the 2 cases and 4 lids on 3D Hubs ($136 delivered, but less than half of that if several people go in together!), I'm happy to assemble the whole thing with all the extra parts I have and ship them to you by USPS. I also posted a PDF below for a laser cut 1/4" Plexiglas mount that uses the original screw holes in the UM S5 to enable you to attach the Bondtech QRs up near the very top of the back wall of the printer. You need to tap the green holes to match the screws you use to mount your Bondtech QR lower bracket. For me, they were M5 x 0.8 mm. All the holes include an 0.25 mm kerf for the laser, but if yours is different, you will need to modify them. Phil Bondtech QR Left & Rigth UM S5 Mounts.pdf
  4. I haven't tried to print up to the limits of the y-axis, but I have the same problem with the x-axis: I cannot print an object larger than 321 mm. Are you using Cura 4.1? That is where I am blocked from using the full build area. I was thinking of changing the machine settings to increase the build plate dimensions. Have you tried that? Do you know whether the issue is the printer or the slicer software?
  5. I’m so confused. I thought you were selling five cores.
  6. So 70 EUR each (350 EUR total) Perfect.
  7. I hadn’t meant for the 50 EUR to include shipping. How much do shipping etc. add?
  8. I’ll take all for $56.50 (50 EUR) each.
  9. I don’t think you want to simply swap gears, as the entrance and exit holes should be smaller for 1.75 mm. If you contact Martin Bondeus, he can help you order the correct parts to convert a 3 mm to a 1.75 mm extruder. The filament in a Bondtech extruder is captured between two toothed grooves in the counter rotating hobs. You definitely want the groove dimensions to match the filament size. But it is much simpler to buy the right size the first time.
  10. Are you planning to use exclusively 1.75 mm filament? Why not just convert everything and use a 1.75 mm Bondtech extruder? For many years I had a Fusion3D printer with dual 1.75 mm hot ends and matched 1.75mm Bondtech QR extruders.
  11. What is your price for all of them delivered to the US by the cheapest method?
  12. Are you looking for a filament that will compress or elongate? NinjaTek Cheetah (glue stick on glass at 90°C) and 3DXTech 3DXFlex 92A (glue stick on glass at 80°C) both print well on the UM2 and S5. More flexible filaments like Ninjaflex and 3DXFlex 88A are hard to print with the Ultimaker extruders. Cheetah and SDXFlex 92A are similar to hard rubber. colorFabb nGen_Flex is not as bendable as Cheetah or 3DXFlex 92A, but it will spring back really well and has a gorgeous surface finish. nGen_Flex is harder to get to stick to the bed. I print it using PVC cement diluted 1:1 in acetone (80°C bed). To make clean up easier, I put PET or Kapton film down before I paint the bed with the cement. ABS juice probably works too. Finally, Taulman PCTPE is deformable but not squishy. It is the easiest to print of all of these. nGen_Flex and PCTPE are bendable plastics, like a soft nylon. All of are fine to immerse in water.
  13. Does anyone know what the "surface energy" and "adhesion tendency" parameters affect? I assume that Cura uses the input value to calculate another parameter (e.g., a temperature, speed, acceleration, or jerk setting), but nowhere can I find how the parameters are used by the Cura algorithm. Given that Cura is open source, it is weird how much more opaque it is than Simplify3D, whose customer support will explain exactly how any user-set parameter is used by the software.
  14. I have a related question about ironing. Does ironing apply to the top layer of support? Is there a simple way to apply ironing only to support?
  15. (1) I print mainly carbon- and glass-fiber reinforced materials. (2) with the Bondtech, I can print Ninjaflex and other flexible filaments at reasonable speeds. And even with the improvements to the Ultimaker extruders, the Bondtech QRs are still much better.
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