Jump to content

pdzamore

Member
  • Content Count

    16
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I haven't tried to print up to the limits of the y-axis, but I have the same problem with the x-axis: I cannot print an object larger than 321 mm. Are you using Cura 4.1? That is where I am blocked from using the full build area. I was thinking of changing the machine settings to increase the build plate dimensions. Have you tried that? Do you know whether the issue is the printer or the slicer software?
  2. I’m so confused. I thought you were selling five cores.
  3. I hadn’t meant for the 50 EUR to include shipping. How much do shipping etc. add?
  4. I don’t think you want to simply swap gears, as the entrance and exit holes should be smaller for 1.75 mm. If you contact Martin Bondeus, he can help you order the correct parts to convert a 3 mm to a 1.75 mm extruder. The filament in a Bondtech extruder is captured between two toothed grooves in the counter rotating hobs. You definitely want the groove dimensions to match the filament size. But it is much simpler to buy the right size the first time.
  5. Are you planning to use exclusively 1.75 mm filament? Why not just convert everything and use a 1.75 mm Bondtech extruder? For many years I had a Fusion3D printer with dual 1.75 mm hot ends and matched 1.75mm Bondtech QR extruders.
  6. What is your price for all of them delivered to the US by the cheapest method?
  7. pdzamore

    Springy filament.

    Are you looking for a filament that will compress or elongate? NinjaTek Cheetah (glue stick on glass at 90°C) and 3DXTech 3DXFlex 92A (glue stick on glass at 80°C) both print well on the UM2 and S5. More flexible filaments like Ninjaflex and 3DXFlex 88A are hard to print with the Ultimaker extruders. Cheetah and SDXFlex 92A are similar to hard rubber. colorFabb nGen_Flex is not as bendable as Cheetah or 3DXFlex 92A, but it will spring back really well and has a gorgeous surface finish. nGen_Flex is harder to get to stick to the bed. I print it using PVC cement diluted 1:1 in acetone (80°C bed). To make clean up easier, I put PET or Kapton film down before I paint the bed with the cement. ABS juice probably works too. Finally, Taulman PCTPE is deformable but not squishy. It is the easiest to print of all of these. nGen_Flex and PCTPE are bendable plastics, like a soft nylon. All of are fine to immerse in water.
  8. Does anyone know what the "surface energy" and "adhesion tendency" parameters affect? I assume that Cura uses the input value to calculate another parameter (e.g., a temperature, speed, acceleration, or jerk setting), but nowhere can I find how the parameters are used by the Cura algorithm. Given that Cura is open source, it is weird how much more opaque it is than Simplify3D, whose customer support will explain exactly how any user-set parameter is used by the software.
  9. I have a related question about ironing. Does ironing apply to the top layer of support? Is there a simple way to apply ironing only to support?
  10. (1) I print mainly carbon- and glass-fiber reinforced materials. (2) with the Bondtech, I can print Ninjaflex and other flexible filaments at reasonable speeds. And even with the improvements to the Ultimaker extruders, the Bondtech QRs are still much better.
  11. I run a pair of Bondtech QR’s on my Ultimaker S5. I added M92 E492.45 ; set E-steps to 492.45 M500 ; saves value to the start G-code in the printer’s machine settings. It isn’t elegant, but it works. The only time I have to send the gcode manually to the printer is when I restart and want to do an xy calibration. (Getting the E-steps right doesn’t matter for filament changes.) Otherwise, the E-step values are stored on the printer. I did have to disable the flow sensors in the printer settings, but I’m almost done prototyping a housing that adds the UM S5 flow sensor hardware to the Bondtech QR’s.
  12. I modified a bunch of cores and have a few 0.4 mm nozzles left over. I’d be happy to send you one by US mail. Email me your shipping address: phillipzamore@me.com.
  13. That’s what I have been doing! Didn’t know about the bug—that makes me feel better.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!