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I am glad I realized this before plunking down $700. I will skip the metal printing on my S5 then.

I found the REST / Swagger based API to the S5. Now the question is, is this the "Ultimaker Preferred" way to integrate into an ERP? Or is there a cloud API? Thanks, --jb

For the record, Ultimaker tech support told me it was my belts. That they were worn out and had to be replaced. BUT, I figure it out! No, the belts were not worn out, the gt2 pulley (some call them 2gt, whatever) was set on the stepper shaft so far out it was causing the belt's teeth to not seat fully on the pulley and caused extra wear on the belt. As the teeth on the belt wore off over the past year it was able to lose home and shift creating blobs and undercuts. Since I adjusted the pulley on the stepper my S5 is printing for the first time without a consistent clicking sound. The layers look properly aligned as well. So for the past year they have been telling me the shedding was the belt "wearing in" until the print errors got so extreme that they couldn't ignore it. Then it was "the belt is worn out." I never touched it because the printer was under warranty and I didn't want to break that warranty. Beautiful printer, poorly assembled, terrible customer service. Ultimaker is poorly served by their USA office.

I have found that when I leave the Ultimaker PVA in the material station it drys out and becomes very brittle. Glass like, actually. I take it out and leave it in a sealed bag when not in use. Also, before I place the PVA into the printer I do a test, I bend it and if it can't make a shallow arc without fractures appearing or it just outright snapping I leave it out for a few hours to a few days depending on the humidity. Ultimaker PVA is wonderfully brittle and almost crystal like when dry. Which makes it a great support material. Problem is when it's too dry, it shatters like glass!! It almost requires safety glasses in that state! It will shatter and sling out tiny fragments in all directions. Kind of like exploding. So what is too wet Ultimaker PVA? If you can tie it in a knot, way too wet. If it can do the shallow arcs without fractures, then that is "wet enough." Ultimaker PVA isn't like that stuff others sell that smells like a wet dog and feels like a wet noodle. This stuff rocks!

Two images above are from the front and the third is from the back showing the rest of the print is technically "perfect." Also, using Cura 5

Hello! I have this weird issue where the print is lumpy only in one place in the entire build space, right about 40 mm in from the front of the build plate. The layers seem to be randomly placed in the Y axis and create undercuts and blobs. I am going to try and purposely print a tube at that exact spot and one further back but directly in line with the first. Maybe two on each side too for good measure. So I will start those prints Sunday when the current jobs are finished. I hope one of you might have th answer and save me doing test prints all day Sunday...

I really wish there was a way to use something like the Ultimaker Android app to rewrite a bad or missing RFIDs. I got new material and every single spool has a blank RFID. I don't know if it's just getting reset in the mail or they never got written in the factory but now I am taking RFIDs off empty spools to make them print. This is becoming more common and is now pretty much a regular occurance. Now is it the FBI scanning all my mail because they hate my politics or is it just my bad luck, dunno. The best solution is to give the app the ability to rewrite the missing or reset RFID. Right now I am using an old ABS Black RFID on my new blue spools and the amount left is just a question mark. Worse is since I only have one ABS RFID I can't have it switch automatically to the next spool.

Follow-up: I was able to work the piece of PVA out by running a piece of PLA backwards until I couldn't push any further. Then I ran the same piece of PLA back through the #2 port from within the material station and the piece of PVA came out just fine. That step should be added to Ultimaker's document on removing PVA fragments from within the material station.

A piece of PVA is stuck in the material station and the Ultimaker documents online do not work in removing the blockage. Matterhackers.com took a whole day to send me the same link I had already tried so they are worthless. Then they tried to tell me the PVA was brittle because it was wet. So they apparently have never used PVA before. I am about to get the screwdriver out and start taking the unit apart unless Ultimaker has a better solution. For the record, yes you can over dry PVA by leaving it in the material station. It turns brittle like glass. You forget this and leave it for a month or two and then start printing and it shatters into multiple pieces all through the plumbing of the printer. I would recommend taking the PVA out for a few hours and let it gain some moisture before printing. Two months in the material station seems to over dry the PVA filament. Yeah, I know! Over drying Ultimaker PVA is a thing. Crazy stuff. But small price to pay for the quality of the prints using it I guess...

Good to know! This would be for a high heat and repeated shock use case so all relevant info. Thank You!

I am new to Ultimaker and have the S5. I came from an Ultimaker clone background where I had to tweak far more than I ever printed usable product. The S5 I have is simply perfect just accepting the defaults. The only issues I have had is finding best practices for build plate adhesion. The S5 and S3 will be "boring" because all you will do with them is print. The actual printer kind of fades into the background as it should. I have had such great success with difficult materials like ABS and Nylon that now that is all I print in! PLA is for toys and PoCs now.

I am very intrigued with Nylon G. After recent success with regular Nylon, the Glass fiber filled variant fits better with a project currently using ABS. The problem is when I look at the output in Cura, the CC 0.60mm nozzle makes thin walls disappear and holes appear. This would be unacceptable in the part as it is a end use part and not a prototype or reference. I see I can buy the 0.40mm ruby nozzles on Amazon BUT! Do I want too? Does 0.40mm compromise the material's properties? Does it just look ugly? Thanks for the help! Maybe this isn't a hardware question, sorry if I am in the wrong place...

I love my new S5. The print quality is exceptional. But, I have discovered a simple design "issue." The issue is when printing close to the center front of the build plate with ABS. I was having adhesion problems so I found Magigoo for ABS. Works like a charm! Except, center front of the build plate. I have solved this with blue painters tape. The issue is the air manager pulls cold air right in through the gap in between the two doors. If you have anything thin right in that area to back about 2 inches it will peel up, Magigoo or no Magigoo. Ultimaker folks, a rubber or silicon thingy to clip to one door and overlay the other door to fill that gap would be perfect. I would pay money for this, painters tape is a hassle. Hopefully this hack will help those who were seeing the issue but not fully understanding why. I have tested same print, with and without tape. Night and day difference. You only need the tape down as far as the plate will travel to print the part. I even tested half way down and right when it got to the cut off the part came peeling up. Made a cracking sound as the Magigoo let go of it. Happy printing!

Actually, Magigoo for PLA and ABS is just spectacular! I am continuing to evaluate but so far the prints are perfect (well, 3D printer perfect). It sticks ABS really well and I haven't had any warping on the bottom layers and I have been printing gears and thin things purposely. Its just perfectly smooth. If I can skip the PEI using Magigoo then I am happy. Personally, I have never had a great deal of success with ABS but if this continues my new favorite material is ABS. The fact that once it cools the print is just sitting on the plate, no longer attached is also just a joy to work with. That said, open the print doors and your print will fail for the very same reason. Thanks for your help! It was all valid and good info.

Ugh, still in trials with the printer. I just solved the adhesion to glass problem (and everything is turning out pretty nice. Using the default profile at .2mm there is a larger variance than my prior printer but I don't think it is a squareness issue. Thanks for the help. I will keep and eye on it.

Thanks for the video link. Not sure why theirs works and mine doesn't but that is ok! I have gone and purchased a bunch of different products off Amazon. One of them will have to work 😛

I am having a ton of failed prints. The print won't stick and starts peeling, eventually just coming off and becoming a big blob. My other printers are all heated bed with PEI. With most materials you are just printing after removing any oils or debris. Things like PETG and PC you are using a glue stick so it doesn't become a permanent part of the PEI sheet. Now all I have is a glass plate with this S5. It has been a huge adjustment. I am a noob so I am not understanding why the raw glass is better than PEI. I finally got one ABS print to succeed but I did the cartoon level of glue on the plate. There was so much glue that the bottom side was uneven from all the glue, not warping. That one success made me ask this question; what amount of glue am I expected to put on the glass? Is there any docs on the amount of glue to use? I have been googling like crazy and not finding answers. I can answer one part of the question by experience now; thin coat is worthless even with PLA Thanks in advance for you time! --jb

Ah! Ok, makes sense. I had to ask. I had to to reassemble the printer's guts before I could do my first print. The constant dropping during shipping popped off every single long belt and the head was flopping around inside. I was worried I messed something up or something was broken. Thanks!

I might have my X and Y axis messed up, I apologize for the confusion!

I had my S5 + Air Manager delivered yesterday. It was not handled with care. The Ultimaker team that designed the packaging needs to come to the USA. I assume in Europe the delivery folks deliver the package like a new born baby. Not so here in the USA. See "Ace Ventura Pet Detective" package delivery scene for reference. Anyways... The Y axis motor (the motor to the left when viewed from the front) is making a metallic clicking sound at the same place in every revolution, forwards and backwards. If this metallic click was produced by play in the bearings it would occur every time the direction was changed, this is produced at the same place every rotation. The sound and exact place it is made changes slightly depending if it is going forward or backwards but it is consistent. If it travels 10 complete turns forwards I hear 10 clicks. When it moves back ten turns I will hear ten clicks back. I can't see far enough inside while printing to see the problem. The way I know the clicks are coming in the same position is I watch the screws on the pulleys. I guess I will have to take the air manager off and move the axis manually until I can see what is clicking. The problem with doing that is it means the printer has stopped printing. If the printer stops printing it is losing money 😞 Maybe somebody here knows this one off the top of their heads? For your viewing pleasure I have provided a video complete with audio of the clicks; https://photos.app.goo.gl/YwMyBCbxkb9KcnGY6 Thanks, --jb