Jump to content

Kief

Member
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • 3D printer
    Other 3D printer

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Kief's Achievements

2

Reputation

  1. I find that the magigoo works best after adding at least 2 layers and it will degrade after a couple of runs like you suggest so i usually clean and replace it every other run, which seems to give good consistency. I dont think that the issue is leftover adhesive for two reasons: the adhesive layer is quite thin, way thinner than my layer height. and the printer does not "level" after each object is completed, it autolevels at the beginning of the print and thats it. So it should return to "0" on z when starting the next object but it seems like it doesnt always do that and its a little bit off. I've never played around with gcode directly but do you think i could manually alter the gcode to set the z-height for each object? How would i do that in cura?
  2. Hi everybody, I am trying to print a bunch of small objects in PP and i get the best results when printing sequentially and using Magigoo PP glue on my S5 bundle with glass bed. However there is a weird issue that I've noticed. The first object prints perfectly and maybe the second as well, but then it gets a bit sketchy and suddenly some of the objects get really bad bed adhesion and it looks like the brim is under extruding or that the distance between the bed and nozzle is to big and the filament is just sort of layed on top of the bed instead of squeezing the first layer. It seems like there is sometimes a mismatch when the bed is returning to 0 after an object is completed. Does anyone have any tips to troubleshoot and/or fix this issue? Printer: Ultimaker S5 material: Ultimaker PP slicer: Cura 5.8.0 Appreciate any feedback!
  3. Thanks for clarifying! It is a fairly small model with quick layers and i run most parameters that i think would affect heat up and cool down speed at default setting. So the most likely explanation seem to be the one you provide. I'm not confident enough to mess with the g-code manually yet but will look in to this more 🙂
  4. Yes i figured something like this was the reason, however I thought that the temperature was adjusted to the correct level while the opposite core was finishing its layer so that it was ready by the time the cores switch?
  5. Hi, Im printing with TPLA in core 1 and PVA in core 2. Everytime it switches to core 2 the print head pauses for 5-10 seconds before continuing. What is the reason for this and how can i fix it? seems like a huge time waste.
  6. I have a rather large print that im doing in ABS. I would like to use 0.3 mm layer height so for the model i will use 0.8 mm core. But since breakaway is only compatible with 0.4 mm (i also only have 1 0.8 atm), is it okay to print 0.3 mm with the 0.4 core for the support?
  7. Hi all, I am attempting a large print over the weekend (40ish hours) and planning on using an AA0.8 and BB0.4 (TPLA+PVA). The reason for the 0.8 core is that i want to reduce the print time, however i have previously only used the 0.8 core in vase mode and am looking for any tips or tricks for printing with this. Is the default TPLA profile good enough or should i tweak something? I'm thinking 0.2 layer height but could consider 0.3 if that suits the 0.8 core better. Would also appreciate input on using PVA for this as i have had some struggles in the past. There are some large overhangs that i would like to come out as clean as possible so im using support interface. Support angle at 60° and a support density of 80%. Regular supports from everywhere. Both materials are fresh from the box and will be pre-dried at 50 °C for 24 hours before printing from the material station. Appreciate any input!
  8. My UM3 has always had issues with wifi so i caved a while back and connected it by LAN-cable, which has worked fine for months. Now suddenly it has lost connection and it gets a 169.254.x.x IP adress which i cant correct. I did try to factory reset with no luck. Anyone know a fix for this?
  9. You were correct! A firmware recovery using newer firmware saved me.
  10. FYI for anyone running in to the same issue: This issue was solved by using a more recent firmware recovery image. Anything older than 7.0.3 will appareantly not repartition the harddrive automatically according to the experts 🙂.
  11. Our S5 (R1) was bricked shortly after installing the 8.1.0 firmware (dont know if they are related) and showing the U-boot linux screen and wouldnt boot at all. I contacted support which gave a detailed instruction on how to restore it using a micro SD card. With the SD-card it moved on after the linux screen and started installing new firmware as expected. However, at about 50% progress bar with a message of "2 minutes remaining" it froze. I left it alone for 1 hour until i tried rebooting it. Now every time i boot it it jumps directly to the 50% mark and freezes. I have tried several different .img files with no luck. Anyone got any tips on how to resolve this?
  12. Kief

    UM3 drops wifi

    @CarloK 192.168.0.219 is the IP that works, the other one not at all. What do you mean by connecting it to the wifi modem? My router is the wifi modem right? in that case it is already connected to it. Could another device in the network cause this by simply being connected to the network or does it have to be directly "related" to the printer, like the router or powerline modem?
  13. Kief

    UM3 drops wifi

    @CarloK The x differs, the IP:s I get are 192.168.0.219 and 192.168.68.115. The router is a TP-link archer AX10 (https://www.tp-link.com/se/home-networking/wifi6-product/archer-ax10/)
  14. Kief

    UM3 drops wifi

    @CarloK Sorry for going offtopic and a huge thanks to you for all the help. Both IP-adresses indeed start with 192.168.x.x. The router on the network provides two wifi connections, 2.4G and 5G as well as the threaded connection, if that makes any difference. To my knowledge there are no other DHCP servers (assuming the router is the only one) unless it is like you say that the powerline modem provides this. The modem is a set of tp-link AV1000 PA7017 (https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/powerline/tl-pa7017-kit/). I have tried to access the maintenance settings but cant figure out how to. The manual does not provide instructions either 😕
  15. Kief

    UM3 drops wifi

    @CarloK, sorry to bother you again. I looked this up and according to the manufacturer of my powerline modem (tp-link) there is nothing that isnt forwarded because of the devices. I did get it to work somehow for a while but when i restart the printer it suddenly has a new IP that i cant even see on my network. Is there a way to permanently change the IP back to the one that worked? why does it change automatically? As you can probably tell im not very IT-savvy 🙂 so sorry if these are stupid questions.
×
×
  • Create New...