Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD,

[deepshots 2]

I've had similar issues with "roofing" and here's my solution.

1. Get a new coupler.. well actually get a bag of them. My underextrusion issues dissappear once I change a new coupler... The old ones are always hollowed out from inside and burned.

2. For difficult surface closings I drop down the temperature to a miniumin where it still comes out nicely and put fans to 100%. I also lower the build plate a bit manually on the fly. This way the nozzle doesn't travel against the uneven surface and end up scraping the previous layer and destroying the new one. Rather it cools down on top nicely as a string which then gives a great support for the next layers. On 0.1 I usually do 0.8 tops and bottoms. For a nice finnish I rise the buildplate again (for last 2 layers ) to get a really nice "squeezed" surface.

I know its lots to do but that's often the only way to get good surface quality on UM2.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

thanks for the file, im going to print it tonight and see what Comes out

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Hey ! i got a Coupler a few months ago! come on, who will be buy a car that you Need to Change the tires each 400 km? is there a way to buy a bag of em? to be sincere, i never managed to print smth that you can Show the Clients above 35 mm/s... i think the ultimaker has to be quicker....

is there a way to get nice surface result with out so much human influence?

[cloakfiend 995]

you should be able to print at up to 70mm/s no problem. I printed a lot like this and it looks fine if you're no gonna paint it. but it doesnt work with my acetone method as it creates bizzare subtle surface patterns due to the speed so i dont bother anymore and do everything at 35, mind you with my new method of loading the filament i might actually give it a go again!!! If you want to print at 70mm.s then crank up the temp to 230 thats it! Go for it. But dont expect the overhangs to look any nicer.

Edited June 16, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

To improve overhangs if you need more speed print on cold plate with bluetape. Or focus an airconditioner with a tube to the fans (I did this for a weird print job it worked but it was too much the trouble).

[cloakfiend 995]

I just split the model, as i have a lot of modelling experience, joining the halves is not really a problem. But more of a time thing.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

[media=2778][/media]

Dafuq?

[cloakfiend 995]

This is why i dont print off the roll anymore......may want to double check youre nozzle too. but more likely the snagging issue.

Edited June 16, 2015 by Guest

[esteban-pacheco 33]

come on! this is SOOO WEIRD!

[esteban-pacheco 33]

its supposed to be the oposite...

[cloakfiend 995]

7, 8, 9, look good though, so i doubt its a faulty nozzle. blocked i reckon.

[cloakfiend 995]

I could print with abs just fine with a blocked nozzle, but NOT PLA. Thats the day i realized i needed to do the atomic method properly.

[esteban-pacheco 33]

[media=2779][/media]

now is better,

[francfalco 37]

mailto:info@cp3d.co.uk

@Fracfalco:

A) im trying that right now, ill let the printer working over night and see what happens.

b) about the file, how can i share it?

C) you say that cura cannot coupe with surfaces???? so all this issues im having with the bottom top (surfaces) is an software issue?

 

Been away for a few days - doesn't seem like the problem is solved or even close?

Sorry to revisit if all this has been tried but just checking...

So the following didn't improve anything,

1. 26% infill

2. Changing filament

3. Using a different version of Cura.

In my experience Cura (so far) is okay at fine resolution, but not great at 2.0 and above. Z scarring, blobbing, top layer often under extruded and the z wall ridges you have shown are all common - for me anyway. And judging by the multiple posts here, for others also. I've experimented with other slicers to see if its hardware or software and S3D can improve certain aspects so i guesstimate its a slicer issue, but i appreciate there are challenges to the UM Bowden/drive configuration that can also cause issue.

I use Makerware slicer at work on a MB Rep 2 and that can produce better infill, surface results, at 0.2 - 0.3mm, but i struggle with it at .2 and higher - i just wish i could test Makerware on my UM2!

I still didn't see if you had uploaded your file for others to test and show it can be printed?

Or please send me the file via email: info.co.uk

Can you do that please, i would love to test it on my UM2 - there is a way to upload and make available files - i believe (but never done it myself).

keep me posted please

Edited June 17, 2015 by Guest