UM2 and InnoFlex problem

[3dnerd 6]

Hi,

today I tried InnfoFlex 45 Yellow for the first time, bad had no luck :-(.

I could successfully feed in the InnoFlex but printing did not work.

I could only print the 1st and part of the 2nd layer then the feeder did not transport the filament anymore.

I tried several times to insert the filament, this worked well but after printing starts the filament does not move anymore. The curled wheel turns but the filament does not move.

I screwed the pressure skrew to give more pressure (up to the lowest position of the indicator), but still no success.

I also tried less pressure, but still no success. The nozzle temperature I set to 210°C.

The first layer was also really bad. The single filament paths did not touch each other. They are very thin, not 0.4 mm as the nozzle diameter is. Do I have to increase the flow rate and/or temperature to move out more material that the paths will touch?  

Could somebody successfully print IbnnoFlex with the built in feeder?

Is this a feeder problem?

Thanks for any help...

Edited June 21, 2015 by Guest

[swordriff 119]

Flexy filament will easily curl up if your teflon piece is worn and has an inner lip..

[3dnerd 6]

Hi swordriff,

thanks for reply, but since my UM2 is fairly new and not used that often I doubt that this is the reason.

The filament does not move through the bowden but keeps inside the feeder case.

I found out that the filament gets curled between the feeder's knurled wheel and the bowden.

The feeder does not feed the filament through the bowden.

I took out both ends of the bowden and tried to feed the filament manually through.

The filament goes nice and smoothly through the bowden. Also if I re-insert the filmanet the feeder moves the filament up through the bowed up to the nozzle without any problem.

It seems that if the bowden is attached to the nozzle that too much pressure is needed to feed the filament through the heated nozzle and therefore  the filament stucks right after the knurled wheel.

I read some threads here saying one should use a drop of oil inside the bowden, but I doubt that this will solve my case.

Maybe I should try a higher nozzle temperature to get less resistance from the nozzle?

Any ideas how to go ahead?

Edited June 25, 2015 by Guest

[tinkergnome 927]

Any ideas how to go ahead?

 

A few suggestions:

 

• Feeder: use as less contact pressure as possible, too much pressure will deform flexible filaments to an oval and it will get stuck in the bowden fairly often...(the |Robert|-Feeder can really be a great help with this)

• Slicer: switch retractions off (and accept the stringing... ) - your chances are much better this way - my experience: retractions are nearly impossible to use with flexible filaments on a bowden feeder

• Speed: start with slow speeds (20mm/s or even slower) - you can raise it later if it works

• Flow: just increase the flow rate until the lines touch each other, 130% is fairly common for flexible materials (alternatively: reduce the configured filament diameter to 2.70 or even lower)

• Temperature: AFAIK recommended for InnoFlex is 210-250 °C - i would start with a medium value (i don't know the specs - it was just a quick google search, so maybe i'm wrong...)

• a drop of oil is the "golden doorknob" - i usually use this dust filter and humidify the sponge with a few drops of sewing machine oil

 

P.S.: diesen Thread hier hast Du gefunden?

Edited June 25, 2015 by Guest

[titanoid 4]

I would recommend IRobertIs feeder.

It has a snap on guide for flexible filaments. Plus filament change and atomic pulls are a breeze!

[titanoid 4]

No warning that someone was faster...

[danilius 118]

Really floppy filament is just asking for a good cry. The only success I have had so far with elastomers has been NinjaFlex, which is slightly stiffer than the other noodle plastic I bought.

[Alecsm 2]

any news about this innoflex 3dnerd? Did u get any well prints? What settings?

Thanks

[valcrow 145]

I've tried innoflex 45 on UM2+ and I was quite impressed. It is flexier than UM PLA flex and prints substantially better/easier in my experience. (but then I was using a 2+)

This is also the only flex I've had success with using retraction. But I did experience a bit of underextrusion as you describe where the lines weren't touching. slowing it down to about 20mm/s and increasing temperature to about 220 seemed to do the trick. You can also increase flow a little bit. But the danger here is if you increase it too much, if you bunch up too much of the material at the head it will outright fail eventually during a later part of the print.

For the bunching in the feeder. Take out your bowden tube on the feeder end and see if it has the taper. The older UM's didn't have a taper on the interior of the bowden and it caused the filament to sometimes hit the edge of the bowden and then curl up.

[3dnerd 6]

Hi,

since I had no luck with several tries and errors I gave up printing flexible material using the UM2.

I think a bowden tube 3D printer is not really able to print flexible filament.