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ColorFabb Carbon Fiber Filament

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Hey guys.

I've been looking around the for an answer to this, but haven't found anything. So I have been wondering if anyone has used ColorFabb's carbon fiber filament. http://colorfabb.com/xt-cf20

The main reason of my curiosity is because ColorFabb states on their website, "A special point of attention is the abrasive nature of the carbon fibers. In general these fibers will accelerate the nozzle-wear of brass nozzles, much faster than unfilled filaments. Therefore we recommend to use nozzle’s from Stainless steel or hardened copper alloys."

To my knowledge the UM2 has a brass nozzle head (correct me if I'm wrong please). So what would be the options for someone wanting to use one of these?

Thank you.

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Hi Guys, I'm after some advice for using XT-CF20.

I've had the Olson system up and running for several months and this weekend I decided to try the CF20 with a stainless nozzle.

I printed the UM robot, and a very nice print it was too, and I also printed a Malvin test print to see about getting my Hub up and running, again a very nice print.

However, now I'm having problems with adhesion to the build plate, I've been using glue sticks and I've also tried hairspray, and varying the temperatures between 60 & 70 for the build plate as well as 240-260 for the nozzle.

The material starts to extrude and lay down but then it starts adhering to the nozzle and not the bed or the part.

What have you guys found the best to print successfully with CF20?

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The think about stainless steel nozzle that they don't say on e3d site it's that steel conducts heat poorly. That means that to print with stainless steel you must print slower and at higher temperatures.

If you print at let's say 240C on the nozzle the heat it's lost faster so the material heat changes to a few degrees less. That also means that if you print other materials the heat and configurations need a total rework and if you plan to print pla at high speeds you might run into problems.

That's why I really don't like stainless steel, unless you are going to print carbon like crazy. And even so, you can't print as fast as with brass nozzles. For my carbon prints for now I'll keep using brass until it dies, anyway I got a bag of 20 nozzles for 3€ each so I'll just use them like bullets until something better comes up...

Edited by Guest

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Thanks neotko,

I printed the Marvin with good results, I did reduce the speed a little but not over much for the test, th main problem I had was that after a few prints I couldn't get the CF20 prints to stick to the platform.

I don't intend to do a lot of printing with XT-CF20 but wanted to be able to use it if needed, I will try again in a few weeks with a reduced speed.

I recieved my new heater from Swordriff on Monday and fitted it so now able to drive the fans a bit harder without effecting the temperature and so will also help with the stainless nozzles.

Although I got a good Marvin print with the CF20 and with a PLA, I'm having problems with the final hoop when using normal XT, just can't get a good quality loop, :angry:

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Can the Ultimaker Original (with heated bed) use this filament?

Would the steel nozzle fit the heater block? I am wanted to print some new fan shrouds and it was suggested the metal filaments or CF.

I'd was curious about using the steel tip only for CF then putting the brass one back in for anything else.

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Ok, correct section of the forum this time :)

I was looking at this special for the carbon filament and hardened nozzle....problem is, it is not in the USA so prohibitively expensive (shipping more expensive than items!)

1 x XT-CF20 3mm 750g spool 1 x E3D 3mm x 0.4mm Hardened Steel nozzle

I think it was verified earlier that the nozzle will work in UMO

Searching for a USA reseller

...and need to read up on how best to print with this material!

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Gr5 seems to have steel jet nozzles (they will work also, since the m6 screw it's the same as e3d nozzles).

 

I thought the jet nozzles are stainless steel which is not good for XT-CF20

Where the E3d ones are hardened steel which has better heat transfer.

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Well I did very little test with steel bozzles because I mostly used a olsson new nozzle for carbon. But since umo heater block it's physically bigger and the heater it's 40W, it shouldn't be much difference to keep it hot enough, specially with a good hotend cap.

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I saw a YouTube video where someone cut a round piece of copper, drill a hole in it for a set screw, that attached it around the base of the steel nozzle.  He found that the heated copper helped stabilize and heat the steel.

Edited by Guest

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