Kapton tape on/under support material

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Hey guys, first time posting here so I hope I have got it right.

I had a bit of an idea today and was wondering if perhaps anyone has already tried this and what results they ended up with. I did a quick search but could find anything relevant

I often print prototype parts that will have large flat surfaces that need to be printed on top of support material. I am growing sick of the rough poor quality finish these surfaces are left with after the support material is removed.

I was wondering if anyone has ever used a pause at Z height feature to lay kapton tape (or something similar) on top of the last support material layer so the next structural surface of the model has a nice flat surface to print onto?

I originally purchased my UM2 with the understanding that there would be a dual extruder option available, thinking I could print support material with a high density in a dissolvable material, but that idea seems to have gone out the window so I’m looking for an alternative.

Otherwise does anyone have a better Y/Z gap and Z gap dimension for support material? (I currently use 1.0mm X/Y and 0.1 Z)

Regards

[gr5 2,167]

You could probably use pause-at-height. This is very intriguing. I hope you try it and let us know. Try it with something that only takes 15 minute to print - maybe an upside down "L". Support the overhang but then add capton tape. Make the vertical arm of the L only 5mm so you don't have to wait long before adding the tape. Tolerances will be very tight - but the UM2 can handle that if you experiment. I think this could work. Not sure. Normally you want the kapton tape heated to 45C or so. I haven't used Kapton tape in years and I don't remember if PLA sticks to it without the heat - I think not. A hair dryer could heat it up enough for the PLA to stick.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

I have recently started to use the kapton tape on the bed as I was having some difficulties with ABS adhesion, now prints are sticking perfectly, both ABS and PLA! (had to dry the abs in the oven too)

I haven't used the pause at height feature before so this will be an interesting experiment for me. Hopefully I will have some free print time over the weekend to test this out.

In my head I can see this idea working brilliantly, but I would be surprised if I was the first person to try it!

[3DukeEngineering 2]

I tried this on a print I was running on the weekend with catastrophic failure! While ABS sticks to kapton tape extremely well, Katon tape does not stick to ABS!

Result was that the kapton tape lifted off the abs support I stuck it to and I ended up with a totally warped surface.

:(

[gr5 2,167]

You probably need a much bigger piece of tape than the area you are printing on above. This allows a much larger area for the tape's glue to adhere to.

[peggyb 169]

did you try this with blue tape? It works with PLA, I have not tried ABS though...

[3DukeEngineering 2]

I haven't tried with blue tape, I will have to buy some and give it a crack!

Also when I tried this procedure with Kapton tape I had the support density set at about 35%. Perhaps having a much denser support structure will give a better surface to lay the tape down on.

Some more testing required when I have some time.

[chrisw 70]

Ok, this thread got me thinking, because I have a design that needs some clean overhangs, and I dread removing supports after something has been printed.  So the Kapton tape idea seemed interesting, but then I was thinking why not print my own tape out of the same material that I'm using for the project?  The filament will bond to it, and it should blend in.   Here is an example of using a thin sheet and a small block to make clean ceilings:

Chris

Edited August 9, 2015 by Guest

[gr5 2,167]

Very nice - except my printer does bridging pretty well - it's the cantilvered overhangs that are hard - like the chin on a person's head. I think you could do something similar for a chin - print it at a different angle and glue it on later or during the print.

Still I like this idea. I have a new really cool idea similar to this - I hope to try it soon and will publish somewhere in tips&tricks.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

@chrisw, I like this idea!

And i guess it's scalable also to a larger size where bridging would for sure be a problem.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Hey thats a wicked idea! I will have to give this a crack next time i have something like this

[rsghowellnj 0]

Okay now I feel really foolish and need some help. I JUST received my Ultimaker 2+ and printing PLA directly on the glass bed. I was not aware of using Kapton Tape. Am I going to have troubles removing my finished print from the glass? What is the best way to remove it now that I messed up and printed directly onto the glass? In the future should I be using Kapton tape when printing PLA on my Ultimaker 2+?

Feeling very foolish

Rich

[Nasimovy 1]

Okay now I feel really foolish and need some help.  I JUST received my Ultimaker 2+ and printing PLA directly on the glass bed.  I was not aware of using Kapton Tape.  Am I going to have troubles removing my finished print from the glass?  What is the best way to remove it now that I messed up and printed directly onto the glass?  In the future should I be using Kapton tape when printing PLA on my Ultimaker 2+?

Feeling very foolish

Rich

 

i print directly on the glass to

its no problem just wait for the bed to cool down and it will come of with a little nudge with your fingers

only with flexpla i recomend some tape or some gluestick.

[gr5 2,167]

kapton tape is an older technology. Glass is the next generation after kapton tape. Not sure what is after glass - maybe build-tak.

Anyway stick with glass - it works really well. If you can't get the part off let it cool completely - even maybe put it in the freezer. Also get a putty knife and sharpen the corner so you can get it under prints.