Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
tasopoulos

Best settings to print this with?

Recommended Posts

Could you please give me some input on the best settings to use for printing this?http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:561661

I had printed a similar pattern (Voronoi) for a bracelet, but I was a bit disappointed by the result (excessive stringing and some blobs):

20151114_163812000_iOS.thumb.jpg.b7c16be04521f6b161465e88d7c08127.jpg

So I would love your guys' input on this headphones stand before I begin. Thanks in advance.

20151114_163812000_iOS.thumb.jpg.b7c16be04521f6b161465e88d7c08127.jpg

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't have an UM2, so its a bit hard to say and I think a lot of things factor in to the final result...

I think 4 mm. @ 40 mm/s is a safe default, and you can work your way from there...

What you could then do, is to print some test prints with different settings and see what you like best...:

- Get a model like this one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1028352

- Use the "Tweak at z" plugin, to modify temperatures at the different heights and slice it with eg. the 4 mm. @ 40 mm./s retraction setting... Do a test print.

- Now tweak the retraction settings somewhat heavily (like 6 mm. @ 60 mm./s), slice and print again...

- Try the same to the other side (2 mm. @ 20 mm./s)...

With those 3 prints I think you should have a very good idea about what temp and retraction works best for your machine, brand of filament, climate etc. etc.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I do not see layer depth mentioned; personally I would use .1mm, but that is a matter of taste, and print speed of 20mm/s. Fans full on and print bed temp. as low as you can - certainly reduce it below 60 after layer 1. I suspect your "under extrusion" could be coming from the print bed heat, that is a guess. As already said, extruder as cool as possible; certainly with settings above I would not exceed 200 but it depends on your printer and the make/colour of the PLA.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well as a general statement, no 30-40 mm/s is not too fast for .200 layer. Running as cool as possible will help you with the stringing on your bracelet. If I were printing something intricate like your bracelet then I would drop down to 20mm/s in search of a good quality finish, but I tend not to print those type of models so I have not done any testing on that subject. I do suspect that dropping to 20mm/s, irrespective of layer resolution, will improve your result - if you have the time :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Print Core CC | Red for Ruby
      Q: For some users, abrasive materials may be a new subject matter. Can you explain what it is that makes a material abrasive when you are not sure which print core to use?
      A: Materials which are hard in a solid piece (like metals, ceramics and carbon fibers) will generally also wear down the nozzle. In general one should assume...
      • 1 reply
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!