It looks like you have the layer skipping problem, where the build plate drops down too much.
My theory is that the bearings on the Z axis are sticking.
Clean the two Z axis rods so there is no oil on them. Keep them oil free.
It looks like you have the layer skipping problem, where the build plate drops down too much.
My theory is that the bearings on the Z axis are sticking.
Clean the two Z axis rods so there is no oil on them. Keep them oil free.
Learn how to do proper atomic pulls and do a lot of them. Problem solved. The reason you are cranking temps up too high, (230) for 0.06 for example is that you have a slow jam. Its only a matter of time before you get complete faliure imho.
For 0.06 i use 185 degrees @30. Thats almost 50 degrees higher! I use 230 for 0.2 layer height at 50mm/s
Again as i have said before, do A LOT (like 30-40) of them and keep going even after they appear clean just to be sure.
This is a common problem dont worry, i also learnt the hard way. Your printer is fine.
It could be any of the 3 answers above but most likely Z issues - the table is a bit sticky and then suddenly moves down too much so it looks like an underextruded layer.
Hi. first i test the temperature, and do the same.
Then i i lubricate the Z guide columns with the spesific oil, the Z screw was good. The tests after this are good.
Thanks for all.
Quicu
I would NOT advise lubricating the Z guide columns. That can cause problems.
Hi. first i test the temperature, and do the same.
Then i i lubricate the Z guide columns with the spesific oil, the Z screw was good. The tests after this are good.
Thanks for all.
Quicu
Whatever your problem is/was I agree with cloakfiend, your extruder temp is way way too high. Mind you this is always a tricky one, whilst I agree with his temp +/- 5 for 0.06, I would consider his temp for for .2 at 50mm/s to be too high, I would use 205-210 normally.
Yeah maybe my .2 layer temps are a bit high but i dont usually print like that so i have little experience in that area. 0.06 is my domain, 0.04 too, but overhange sucks balls at that resolution with the 0.4 nozzle.
Edited by GuestYeah I suspect our approach is similar, if I am prototyping for someone I will use .200 or .300 and take my favourite filaments and test to death to get the speed/temp. spot on (and as low as possible) for those combinations. Apart from curiosity I have never gone below .100 (print time impacts costs) and have no data on speed/temps. below .100 - I don't envy you on those overhangs
Im just afer a smooth surface with little to no effort, and thats something i just cant acheive with 0.1. I could when UM had the best filaments, but now they are useless to me from a smoothing point of view. I treat UM filament as scrap now. I only use colorfabb at the moment, but am curious to find another brand that smooths and prints just as good. I never got any breaks with the old um filament, and under extrusion was also less for me, resulting in much cleaner models.
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Killerspec 0
HI Quica
I had few issues like that with my printer at the start a few weeks ago and after searching the web high and low for answer I got chatting with a guy in the States on mIrc one night and his advice was to turn up the heat of the nozzle. Since then I am running the system at around 230 degrees and my prints are better for it.
Please note that this has worked for me and only a suggestion test with your own machine but let me know if it works for you.
Regards
Matthew
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