You have black goo near the aluminium block. Heat the hotend to 190 and tight the nozzle (carefull it can break).
I still dont' see the bowden tube. It should come all the way down inside your wooden print head and slip inside that white teflon part.
@gr5 there is no bowden Tube, because of this you can not see.:(
I don't understand how the filament gets from the feeder to the print head without the tube? You must have a tube or the filament will never be pushed into the head.
You just need to slide that tube further down until it gets inside the white part.
Another photo - this printer not so modified. Bowden goes all the way down to and inside of white teflon piece:
I do have the boden tube that guides the fillament to the head
in the first picture you can see it on the backround as i have removed it and inserted material by hand
after 2 days it still does the same thing
i removed everything cleaned everything with a hot air gun , did the atomic thing .
printed once worked fine and thats that .
It is a pretty crucial part of the Ultimaker design, without it you are bound to get in trouble.
Why did you remove it in the first place?
i didn't remove anything
it is there . Just at the time the picture was take i was feeding material manualy so i had to take it out . Just as we speak i am up loading a video on youtube so everybody can have a clear understanding of what is happening.
- 1
if you see cearfully at the video at exactly 1:00 you can see a clear shoot that the tube is all the way in and you can hear the extruder working and the material flowing
Ok umm. Why you took out the bowden anyway? It's only good out when doing an atomic pull. Does the bowden stays 'in' while printing or goes out?
Also, never extrude with the bowden not in. Do an atomic, insert it very 'in', clip it. And then pass the filament through the extruder all the way in.
Also again. Make a good photo (not flash) of the aluminium heater top and bottom. I saw black goo on the top part of the aluminium and that happens when the nozzle isn't tight while hoy (video up on my post).
Also. That video don't shows a problem. Except that you should never ever extrude without the bowde all the way in.
the problem is , in my understanding , that the tube always comes out just a few mm , but still in side the white hot end isolator coupler , and the result is hot semi melted fillament pops out and gets knoted as the picture with the purple fillament in the first post .
the question is why is the tube moving out of the isolator coupler ( i have the blue safety clip on top always in place ) and how can i prevent it from happening?
Usually cutting a few 1-2mm on the bowden, you 'renew' the area for the bowden clip to grip it. If you pull the bowden by hand it moves just a few mm or goes out? If so. Cut (very flat cut its hard to do, but it's posible) a few mm and insert the bowden and clip it.
Blue thingy isn't for safety btw. It's to 'lock' the grip on the bowden. Insert the bowden, keeping the preassure on. Use a tweezers on the white grip thingy (so the white thingy grip it's 'on'), then insert the blue clip. If the bowden moves, you need to cut a few mm on the bowden to renew de clip area (the white thingy has some very small metal 'nails' inside).
Edited by GuestMaybe someone that talks English natively can explain this better than myself
ok i got it , it was perfectly explained,
i will try it and get back to you
thank you very much
aggertroll 12
Let me try: The white sleeve locks the tube in place. When the white sleeve is pushed all the way down, you can slide the tube in. Make sure it goes all the way in. If the end of the tube is in any way deformed, cut off a quarter inch with an exacto or any very sharp knife. Once it is in the correct place, you pull up the sleeve. This sqeezes the sleeve's little teeth together, grabbing and locking the tube. You now secure the sleeve in the up (lock) position with the blue spacer and your bowden tube should not move. There are various replacements for the blue thing on Thingyverse, also for the similar spacer at the feeder end. They are worth a try:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46318
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621862
Hope this helps.
- 1
will try those too
thank you very much
I think @neotko and @aggertroll explained it very well
Let us know if this held the solution and select the answer as 'Best Answer' which you found most helpful.
Goodmorning
i think it's ok now
i did cut a few mm from the bowden tube and now its running perfect
thank you very much guys
- 1
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,266
You are missing something. Do you have the PEEK part? It's kind of tannish brown. The bowden tube should go all the way to the white teflon part in this photo. Look at the head from the side versus a photograph. Showing a photograph from the side view of the nozzle/heater block/ head would be helpful.
Link to post
Share on other sites