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SandervG

Ultimaker Original Dual Fan Upgrade | Contributed by Neotko

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We just launched a new Guide in our Resources section online.

It is an upgrade guide on how to install dual fans on your Ultimaker Original. @Neotko has been a great contributor to this guide and he even made a symmetric dual fan shroud that fits your Ultimaker Original.

dualfan_hero.thumb.jpg.f186845febdef879dbc3b0a6a9615890.jpg

If you are curious, you can find it the Ultimaker Original Dual Fan Upgrade here!

In the copy you will see that finding the proper fans can be tricky. We recommend to get a copy of the fans already installed on your Ultimaker because they have beend3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net proven to work, but obviously you are free to explore the realm of fans. If you have other fans that you prefer, I would be curious to know which ones those are and why.

Feel free to share them below, so users looking for different fans can have some alternative examples.

Through the guide readers can be linked towards this thread.

Also, if you have done the upgrade and you have a before and after photo feel free to post it below too!

We'll use those photo's to update the Guide and show what a difference two fans can make.

Looking forward hearing from you! :)

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-Do we print it like the part is opened in cura, or flat in the same way the image shows? Since the support issue looks like the imported orientation, as do the actual prints(also the readytoprint file). The cura screenshot with the settings however shows the flat orientation.

-Is the cap easy to remove so we can change nozzles? Or can you do that without removing the fan cap?

-Have you had experience with other carbon filaments(Colorfabb?)

-Also, anything to take in mind regarding hot end dimension settings in Cura?

Edited by Guest
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@titus

Indeed, the best orientation it's the one of the readytoprint. This way the idea it's to increase the overhang angle to 70-89 so only the areas that need bridge get support. The other orientation should work, but it will generate more support areas.

Change nozzles

Indeed, if you unscrew the x8 fan cap m3 25mm partially (like the last step on the animated gif but in reverse) you can keep the fans on the bottom pieces and the fancap will fall, leaving all the hotend exposed. Also I made it so there's room to use a spanner to hold the aluminium block and take our the nozzle. Also I designed for E3D/Jet nozzles and the fan cap should never hit the bed clips.

Other filaments

Not really, I use a lot of carbon for a customer so I just use formfutura because they did like the color and texture it has, so that's what I use :D I will like to know how colorfabb reacts to heat with a kapton tape on it, I bet it can hold the heat just fine, but I don't know :S

Hotend dimension in cura

Umm I see, it's true it uses a lot of 'room', the 30x30 version has the smallest footprint. But the truth it's that I never print 'one at the time', so I really really never used that feature on cura or s3d.

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@SandervG, nice!

@neotko, Thanks, I'll have a look. I believe I have some Colorfabb Carbonfill samples. Should be enough. Ideally you would print 1 set with your original fanshroud, install, and print a new one with the improved fanshroud to perfect it :p

Nice writeup also on the testing of PWM etc, though I'm not sure if it would really be that bad to have 2 fans 100%, as Joris once said about 3D printing and speed: my problem is not how fast I can put plastic down, but rather how fast I can cool it.

I'll keep you posted! Might try this before I continue my geared heart prints.

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Indeed. My goal using that fans it's to be able to push a bit more speed limit of decent overhangs and also to have cooling from both sides (you know, a better ultirobbot) without the need of slowing down too much. This way I can improve my print time and make more prints with an 'ok' look.

Also that's why it's important to have a barrier below the block, ao air won't affect the heat/pid and you can keep moving air as fast as you can (unless your fans could actually send filament flying).

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@neotko @SandervG I'm about to 'just do it' :p But when I was looking at the settings in this screenshot:

https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/1300x0/570e001c0e2bb/cura-settings.jpg

I was wondering, .1mm or .2mm layer height. Only esthetic difference, or also preformance?

Also a 0.6 top bottom thickness, on a .2mm layer height? Are you sure the top is going to close and not cause pillowing: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing?

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I used 0.3 for the first layer and layers of 0.2 for the print. Since I used 0.4 nozzle on cura should be 1.2 shell.

Sincerely I never seen pillowing on carbonfill.

I used 3 bottom layers so 0.6 and 3 top layers so also 0.6. Carbonfill makes very nice toplayers but imposible bridging. Strangely enough it can do very nice 70 degress overhangs without support.

Oh one think. After 1-2 days use. Take a look to the hotend hole on the fancap. Since it compress on inself it might (1-3 fancaps happened) the hole deforms and neds a bit of cleaning with a needle file to keep not touching the nozzle. But after the first deformation it won't change anymore.

Check this img of a new fancap for um2 hotend on umo+ that I just been using for 3 days.

image.thumb.jpeg.b949c393475b76d2806269710e45d742.jpeg

The inner circle deformed (it has a diferent design than the one here) so I got to handfile it a bit and reapply the kapton.

image.thumb.jpeg.b949c393475b76d2806269710e45d742.jpeg

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Oh also. Carbon prints better (and faster ofc) at 0.2. At 0.15 it prints really nice. At 0.1 the hotend will drag a lot of material and might make a big blob at somepoint.

Pretty much like @nicolinux had with carbon xt20 on this post

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17159-printing-with-colorfabb-xt-cf20-um2?page=3#reply-130019

Most of the time 2-3h prints needs a ninja-style pickup of the excess around the nozzle.

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Oh also. Carbon prints better (and faster ofc) at 0.2. At 0.15 it prints really nice. At 0.1 the hotend will drag a lot of material and might make a big blob at somepoint.

Pretty much like @nicolinux had with carbon xt20 on this post

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17159-printing-with-colorfabb-xt-cf20-um2?page=3#reply-130019

Most of the time 2-3h prints needs a ninja-style pickup of the excess around the nozzle.

 

I just found this out the hardway :p

Luckily only on the top parts.

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Well Carbonfill formfutura and colorfabb xt20 sure work diferent. Personally I would ask @rigs or @nicolinux how to get the first layer nice but not that tight. I seen their posts and they managed to print it fine.

Btw wow! I hope that didn't chip your glassbed :S

 

No it didn't (yet). Still 1,5 of those on the glass.

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@SandervG Bluetape, as long as colorfabb website doesn't work with XT20. The first rolls colorfabb made 2015 bluetape was ok with it but it's true, that since colorfabb xt20 it's 'XT' it should work? I wonder if someone ever tested it.

Also now that I read colorfabb website they use 50-60C, maybe that 15C on your bed it's making it stick tooo much.

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