Thanks for letting me know, I changed the screenshot image so it matches the print orientation better 
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Ultimaker Original Dual Fan Upgrade | Contributed by Neotko
@SandervG, nice!
@neotko, Thanks, I'll have a look. I believe I have some Colorfabb Carbonfill samples. Should be enough. Ideally you would print 1 set with your original fanshroud, install, and print a new one with the improved fanshroud to perfect it 
Nice writeup also on the testing of PWM etc, though I'm not sure if it would really be that bad to have 2 fans 100%, as Joris once said about 3D printing and speed: my problem is not how fast I can put plastic down, but rather how fast I can cool it.
I'll keep you posted! Might try this before I continue my geared heart prints.
Edited by Guest-
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Indeed. My goal using that fans it's to be able to push a bit more speed limit of decent overhangs and also to have cooling from both sides (you know, a better ultirobbot) without the need of slowing down too much. This way I can improve my print time and make more prints with an 'ok' look.
Also that's why it's important to have a barrier below the block, ao air won't affect the heat/pid and you can keep moving air as fast as you can (unless your fans could actually send filament flying).
Edited by Guest@neotko @SandervG I'm about to 'just do it' But when I was looking at the settings in this screenshot:
https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/1300x0/570e001c0e2bb/cura-settings.jpg
I was wondering, .1mm or .2mm layer height. Only esthetic difference, or also preformance?
Also a 0.6 top bottom thickness, on a .2mm layer height? Are you sure the top is going to close and not cause pillowing: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing?
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I used 0.3 for the first layer and layers of 0.2 for the print. Since I used 0.4 nozzle on cura should be 1.2 shell.
Sincerely I never seen pillowing on carbonfill.
I used 3 bottom layers so 0.6 and 3 top layers so also 0.6. Carbonfill makes very nice toplayers but imposible bridging. Strangely enough it can do very nice 70 degress overhangs without support.
Oh one think. After 1-2 days use. Take a look to the hotend hole on the fancap. Since it compress on inself it might (1-3 fancaps happened) the hole deforms and neds a bit of cleaning with a needle file to keep not touching the nozzle. But after the first deformation it won't change anymore.
Check this img of a new fancap for um2 hotend on umo+ that I just been using for 3 days.
The inner circle deformed (it has a diferent design than the one here) so I got to handfile it a bit and reapply the kapton.
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Oh also. Carbon prints better (and faster ofc) at 0.2. At 0.15 it prints really nice. At 0.1 the hotend will drag a lot of material and might make a big blob at somepoint.
Pretty much like @nicolinux had with carbon xt20 on this post
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17159-printing-with-colorfabb-xt-cf20-um2?page=3#reply-130019
Most of the time 2-3h prints needs a ninja-style pickup of the excess around the nozzle.
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Oh also. Carbon prints better (and faster ofc) at 0.2. At 0.15 it prints really nice. At 0.1 the hotend will drag a lot of material and might make a big blob at somepoint.
Pretty much like @nicolinux had with carbon xt20 on this post
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/17159-printing-with-colorfabb-xt-cf20-um2?page=3#reply-130019
Most of the time 2-3h prints needs a ninja-style pickup of the excess around the nozzle.
I just found this out the hardway
Luckily only on the top parts.
Edited by Guest-
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Ok, I don't know what happened. Can't seem to get the XT Carbon fill off the bed, completely destroys the print(luckily not the bed). What did I miss, more glue/less glue/no glue. More/less heat/tape?
I did the 75degrees bed as described and even broke my tools: 
Well Carbonfill formfutura and colorfabb xt20 sure work diferent. Personally I would ask @rigs or @nicolinux how to get the first layer nice but not that tight. I seen their posts and they managed to print it fine.
Btw wow! I hope that didn't chip your glassbed :S
Well Carbonfill formfutura and colorfabb xt20 sure work diferent. Personally I would ask @rigs or @nicolinux how to get the first layer nice but not that tight. I seen their posts and they managed to print it fine.
Btw wow! I hope that didn't chip your glassbed :S
No it didn't (yet). Still 1,5 of those on the glass.
I used 3DLac spray (I think it is just re-branded hairspray...) to make xt and xtcf-20 stick. I don't spray it on the glass but on a tissue and wipe the bed with it.
But how do you get it off the bed 
?
Wait until it cools and then it comes off. A bit harder than PLA+heated bed for example, but I did not have any problems so far. Never broke something.
I let it cool, and then my picture happened
You could try to put in inside the fridge (not freezer). So it goes below room temp.
I'll have a look, but given the limited nature of my XT-CF20 I don't want to waste more of it being stuck
I wonder, using no glue at all, will it stick less, or is the component in the glue making it stick less when it is cooled down.
The CF I printed so far didn't require any extra adhesion to stick. As a matter of fact, I haven't been using the gluestick for a very long time. For the bigger parts where there is more of a chance of warping I tend to use the good old fashioned hairspray trick and that is usually enough
@Blizz, the problem is not the lack of adhesion, but the opposite
Did the part come off easily without the gluestick? And what temps were you printing on? 245/70?
@Titus, have you tried printing it on blue tape?
In case if it gets too stuck, you would just rip of some blue tape, and this could maybe be taken off with a file / water / patience.
@SandervG Bluetape, as long as colorfabb website doesn't work with XT20. The first rolls colorfabb made 2015 bluetape was ok with it but it's true, that since colorfabb xt20 it's 'XT' it should work? I wonder if someone ever tested it.
Also now that I read colorfabb website they use 50-60C, maybe that 15C on your bed it's making it stick tooo much.
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Titus 170
-Do we print it like the part is opened in cura, or flat in the same way the image shows? Since the support issue looks like the imported orientation, as do the actual prints(also the readytoprint file). The cura screenshot with the settings however shows the flat orientation.
-Is the cap easy to remove so we can change nozzles? Or can you do that without removing the fan cap?
-Have you had experience with other carbon filaments(Colorfabb?)
-Also, anything to take in mind regarding hot end dimension settings in Cura?
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neotko 1,417
@titus
Indeed, the best orientation it's the one of the readytoprint. This way the idea it's to increase the overhang angle to 70-89 so only the areas that need bridge get support. The other orientation should work, but it will generate more support areas.
Change nozzles
Indeed, if you unscrew the x8 fan cap m3 25mm partially (like the last step on the animated gif but in reverse) you can keep the fans on the bottom pieces and the fancap will fall, leaving all the hotend exposed. Also I made it so there's room to use a spanner to hold the aluminium block and take our the nozzle. Also I designed for E3D/Jet nozzles and the fan cap should never hit the bed clips.
Other filaments
Not really, I use a lot of carbon for a customer so I just use formfutura because they did like the color and texture it has, so that's what I use
I will like to know how colorfabb reacts to heat with a kapton tape on it, I bet it can hold the heat just fine, but I don't know :S
Hotend dimension in cura
Umm I see, it's true it uses a lot of 'room', the 30x30 version has the smallest footprint. But the truth it's that I never print 'one at the time', so I really really never used that feature on cura or s3d.
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