Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Wonky Honeycomb Infill


Recommended Posts

Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

20160719_170538.thumb.jpg.c420e4aca72019568f8eb4bd763ad77a.jpg

Video

Any idea why the honeycomb infill on the left looks so horrible and the infill on the right looks fine?

Do I need to slow things down?

Slicer: Simplify 3D

Quality Level: "Fast"

Printing Speed: 41.67mm/sec (2500mm/min)

Infill Pattern: Full Honeycomb

Infill Percentage: 25%

Material: PLA

Layer Thickness: 0.25mm

Thanks.

20160719_170538.thumb.jpg.c420e4aca72019568f8eb4bd763ad77a.jpg

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    Have you tried to move the model around? So is it always on the left side of your model, regardless of where it is, or is the irregularity of the infill bound to a certain location on the buildplate?

    You could also look into slowing down the infill speed. At what speed is that?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    That one was printed at 42mm/sec.

    I printed it again at 33mm/sec and got similar results.

    My coworker and I then decided it was finally time to level the bed (it has been about 6 months), since the problem areas "seem" to be at the back of the bed.

    Leveled the bed and printed a Benchy (with no supports).

    P1140387.JPG.

    Looked pretty good to me.

    Printed my part again towards the front of the bed with rectilinear infill (gave up on the honeycomb). The first layers look great, but now I am seeing gaps in the layers along the perimeter. ARGH.

    Also, I am fiddling with the machine which makes me nervous.

    The feeder is skipping as well.

    I am now thinking that this all might be my old friend (queue the dramatic music) the PTFE coupler.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Wonky Honeycomb Infill
    The feeder is skipping as well.

    Yes.  You have underextrusion.  That is causing those gaps also on the perimeter.  For now you can print at 1/2 speed and increase temp but order another coupler asap.  The newer couplers both from my store (thegr5store.com) and from fbrc8 are MUCH better and last longer.  They are from a very expensive material only from Dupont.  You can tell they are different as they are not opaque white but instead are somewhat translucent.

    You also need to clean your z screw which is probably causing those minor horizontal lines in benchy.  Here is a difference after only a few minutes with a paper towel.  I did not regrease or take it apart or anything but did use my thumbnail (long!) to push paper towel into the threads. White=before black=after

    5a331eef2db90_2016-07-0316_13_03.thumb.jpg.85c7de424c16951cf2629a7b84b8d446.jpg

    5a331eef2db90_2016-07-0316_13_03.thumb.jpg.85c7de424c16951cf2629a7b84b8d446.jpg

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    Anytime you are printing and hear that skipping, IMMEDIATELY cut the speed in half on the TUNE menu. If it's only the bottom layer don't panic but any other layer and you need to keep the speed slow. If it skips more then go down to 25%. Also consider raising the temp 10C up to 240C max for PLA.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    Update (for those that care).

    Cleaned off the Z axis screw and reapplied a little of the green grease that came with the printer.

    Did a few Atomic Pulls.

    When I pulled the fan shroud off to check the PTFE coupler, I found this beauty.

    P1140448.thumb.JPG.da2285a35e378dc72f895fab8193f4d6.JPG

    The heater block is encased in a blob of ColorFab XT. A little surprise left over from this failed print several weeks back. I didn't realized it had gotten up inside the fan shroud.

    [print=4285][/print]

    Heated up the print head and pulled it off with needle nose pliers.

    Pulled out the old PTFE coupler.

    P1140451.thumb.JPG.b6eae9a86ae0aa04f7de8406cdefdbf6.JPG

    The PTFE coupler looked pretty good to me. The OD was a little brown, but the ID was pure white. Filament easily passes through the PTFE coupler. I think the PTFE coupler was still good. Since I already had everything opened up, I put a new PTFE coupler in anyway.

    Printed a new Benchy.

    DSCN0640.JPG

    The layers seem to be much more consistent than last time. Its hard to tell which of the things I fiddled with made it better. Maybe a little of each. What ever the case, I think the Ultimaker2 is back on the straight and narrow.

    Thanks all.

    P1140448.thumb.JPG.da2285a35e378dc72f895fab8193f4d6.JPG

    P1140451.thumb.JPG.b6eae9a86ae0aa04f7de8406cdefdbf6.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    The gap between the ptfe and the steelcoupler seems to big, try to leave just 1mm so it doesn't get too much pressure. Too much pressure cuts down the lifespan of the ptfe. Anyhow nice cthulhu monster 3d print :D

    Also you could print a fixed spacer of the height you prefer (I use one of 10.4mm and others of 9.4-9.8 on my 3 um2 hotends)

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    The gap between the ptfe and the steelcoupler seems to big, try to leave just 1mm so it doesn't get too much pressure. Too much pressure cuts down the lifespan of the ptfe. Anyhow nice cthulhu monster 3d print :D

    Also you could print a fixed spacer of the height you prefer (I use one of 10.4mm and others of 9.4-9.8 on my 3 um2 hotends)

     

    I've got the I2K insulator in there, so that is why the gap loos too big. I do have the original spring in there and it is TIGHT.

    I like the idea of a spring because it adjusts to fit. I should look on McMaster for a shorter or lighter duty sprint.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    No necessarily. Maybe it just died deformed due normal use and on extrude/retracts the filament got a grip of the coupler and pushed it up. That might do the gap that filled with filament later + leak after that. With a fixed spacer that shouldn't happen. Also a tighter spring would deform the coupler due excessive pressure and make its lifespan shorter.

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Wonky Honeycomb Infill

    Some people cut the TFT smaller by the thickness of the i2k. I don't think it's necessary. If you choose to do this make sure it's very square - otherwise you can get leaking at the base of the TFT which will leak onto the top of the heater block.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.3 stable released
        In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 26 replies
      • Here it is. The new UltiMaker S7
        The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
         
         
        So what’s new?
        The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
         
        The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
         
        The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
         

         
        The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
        Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more  
        Curious to see the S7 in action?
        We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
        It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
        Register here for the Webinar
          • Like
        • 18 replies
      • UltiMaker Cura Alpha 🎄 Tree Support Spotlight 🎄
        Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
         
        We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.  
          • Like
        • 22 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...