Are you printing on plain glass? I think 185°C is too cold for good adhesion to the buildplate. For difficult parts, I increase temperature to 220°C for the first layer and then reduce it gradually during second layer to the desired value. Another typical reason for bad bed adhesion is a slightly too large calibrated distance between nozzle and glass.
Hi SandervG and avogra!
Thank you very much!
At our university we use an ultimaker 2+ without any problems. I was so intrested in 3D printing I build a 3D printer by my own. Kinda like the Prusa I3.
I'm printing on a plain glass with some tape on for a better surface. But i don't know or it's helping.
I have to say that the room, where i'm printing in, is under the roof and kinda warm (25°C). When i'm printing I try to close the windows and doors so there is no ventilation in the room.
Maybe I can start again with calibrating the distance between the nozzle and the glass.Edited by Guest
What type of PLA do you use what are the specs? It really depends on that?Leveling would help. Try changing the build surface to just glue stick and glass.Edited by Guest
If you're printing on blue painter's tape, you could wipe it with rubbing alcohol and that will remove the wax on the tape, giving even better adhesion.
You might need a higher hotend temperature because it might also be a little bit of underextrusion, leveling is important, and increase your hotend temp according to the middle of you filament specs.
thanks a lot guys!
i will try every advice and i hope it will work otherwish i will forworth it to you for more advice
Most likely you leveled with head too far from glass. Squishing the filament more will get you better adhesion. Also make sure the glass is clean. I clean the glass about once per month - just remove it and put in sink with soap and water, dry and re-install. Adding a little glue stick to the glass and spreading with wet tissue and letting that dry will help parts stick even more. But most important is to squish filament into the glass. Try turning the 3 leveling screws and equal amount - try 1/2 rotation CCW to get glass closer to nozzle.
Blue filament is closest to ideal although the yellow example will stick like hell.
I think the best advice @gr5 gave me about bed leveling precisely was to add 4 skirt lines to the print. Then while the printer is making those skirt lines, quickly turn and adjust the bed adjustment knobs as needed to get the desired result. It will seem a little frantic doing so but having done it...I haven't had to adjust the bed in quite some time.
Thank you for your post and welcome to the forums.
What kind of 3D printer do you use, an Ultimaker? It is designed to use 2.85mm filaments. If you are destined to use 1.75mm filament on your Ultimaker, you should make some modifications to your machine.
I also think you are refering to warping, instead of delamination. This might make it a little bit easier to search for other solutions too.
If you could let us know what kind of 3D Printer you use that would be helpful!
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