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Does UM 3 provide printing accuracy equivalent to Zortrax M200

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Dear All,

I am very interested in the UM3 given its lots of nice features.

Just want to know from you who have UM3 usage experiences, is it able to provide printing accuracy or precision equivalent or bettern than Zortrax M200?

Thanks a lot and I do appreciate if you could share your information or experiences.


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The UM2 is comparable! And it's much cheaper than the UM3. Also it is comparable at twice the printing speed. Zortrax is very good at printing ABS (but slow). UM2 is very good at printing PLA.

Check out the prints here made by ultimaker printers:


I know - it's 160 pages. Well look at them for 10 mintues at least. There are some amazing prints in there!

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To add something about PLA/ABS, since you ask about the UM3.

The UM3 is perfectly capable of printing ABS. The cores can handle a higher temperature compared to the UM2. So in terms of flexibility in the types of materials to use the UM3 is better. For ABS you want to close the front (and top) of the printer, but thats very simple to do (same as on UM2)

Only exception in flexibility is if you want to print a lot of abrasive materials (like metal filled filament). In this case the UM2 is a better option as changing nozzles is much cheaper than changing a complete core. Although my gut feeling is this is only a temporary advantage as I expect 3th party cores with changeable nozzles will eventually become available for the UM3.

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After installing a Bondtech feeder, GT2 Belts, heated bed,my wooden UMO gives me

fantastic prints.

Working as a mechanical engineer, one of our customers NorDan (makes doors and windows) had a professional printer for prototyping and the chief for R&D still shakes his head when we send new prototypes for their Smarthouse project, as they wasted

30.000 euro, when a homebuild wooden printer gives same function and good prints for a fraction of the price.

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@catohagen if you want to push the quality even further you could install a UM2+ hotend (you don't need to buy the kit, the hotend in parts is around 190€). But ofc for UMO non plus it needs a few board hacks to change to 24V.

I totally agree btw. I use 3 umo+ with um2 hotends and FatIRobertI (bondtech) feeders, and the quality is just even better than my um3 (for single prints ofc). But also well, I did change the shafts to misumi, bearings, and tuned all to print as fast as posible while keeping good quality. Is quite a challenge to make 3D printers be able to make real production of objects on a small scale.

But indeed a UMO+ with GT2 and a Bondtech feeder or my Cheaper option FatIRobertI feeder I could not be happier with the print quality. Also I'm in the process of installing the fantastic (and unpublished mod) @Gudo bed vibration stabilizer. That will be the final touch to make everything sweet as cakes.

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