Blue tape lifting

[JO3 1]

Hi All!

I've started running some larger prints on my UMO (as close to the maximum as I can) and i'm getting some very bad warping going on. It lifts the painters tape off the build platform entirely (I've attached an image) and so I feel it's not so much it not adhering to the tape but the tape adhering to the build plate itself.

Is this a common issue and how have people overcome it?

I'm printing a brim/raft at a higher temperature (230) and then dropping it down to 215 when it starts the part. I'm using the standard 3m painters tape that came with the ultimaker.

Any help would be much appreciated! Thank you.

Edited January 24, 2017 by Guest

[peggyb 170]

Bad warping can lift of the tape from the bed. Next time make the tape longer and fold it over the edge. A strong warp can still lift it but not that much as you have now.

[JO3 1]

Thanks @peggyb i've tried folding the tape over the edge and it's working a lot better. I also flipped the build plate over as it had quite a lot of scratches on it and cleaned it so the tape seems to be getting a better grip. I haven't tried on such a large print again though.

Thanks for your help!

[tommyph1208 55]

A heated bed and a glas plate or similar will do wonders for you... Ultimaker has a kit nowadays, and you can find much cheaper alternatives on eg. ebay

like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-Aluminium-Plate-with-Temperature-Sensor-for-Ultimaker-3D-Printers-/221520299135?hash=item3393a3847f:g:rKgAAOSwVFlT6Jd1

[mechaneil 20]

A heated bed and a glas plate or similar will do wonders for you... Ultimaker has a kit nowadays, and you can find much cheaper alternatives on eg. ebay

like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-Aluminium-Plate-with-Temperature-Sensor-for-Ultimaker-3D-Printers-/221520299135?hash=item3393a3847f:g:rKgAAOSwVFlT6Jd1

 

Is this one a "plug and play" upgrade. What else does one need to do to install this heat bed upgrade?

[krys 206]

Hi there,

I once read somewhere that putting two layers of tape, criss-cross (i.e. at 90 degree angles) can help keep the tape down. So, say, one layer is left-right, and the next layer is front-back.

Never tried it personally, but it would be a simple enough thing to test.

I have also used the PrintInZ skin and it works decently with a cold bed, depending on material. ... Assuming you do not get the heated bed. A heated bed is nice though.

Anway, hope this helps. Good luck!

[tommyph1208 55]

 

A heated bed and a glas plate or similar will do wonders for you... Ultimaker has a kit nowadays, and you can find much cheaper alternatives on eg. ebay

like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heated-Bed-Kit-Aluminium-Plate-with-Temperature-Sensor-for-Ultimaker-3D-Printers-/221520299135?hash=item3393a3847f:g:rKgAAOSwVFlT6Jd1

 

Is this one a "plug and play" upgrade. What else does one need to do to install this heat bed upgrade?

 

I have it, but didn't use it as plug and play, so can't say if it will work with no other alternations than a bigger power supply (you WILL need that, since the one that comes with the UM only just about delivers enough power for the printer itself).

I bought a RUMBA electronics board when upgrading my printer and stepped everything on the printer up to 24V rather than the std. 19V...That is a bigger operation, and probably not something you are interested in.

If you want to try the cheapest route possible it would be to buy a 19-24V 20A power supply and a kit like the one linked.

Follow the manuals/instructions provided by these Chinese retailers on how to alter the UM board so it works with a heatbed (they go something lioke this: http://www.916sy.com/ebay/Appbuck/hotu_1)

... IF this should fail, you buy a Ramps 1.4 board as a replacement... Its cheap (<10$) and works just as well as the Ultimaker one.

Edited February 7, 2017 by Guest