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Posted
· Temperture, Closed chamber for my printer
That looks like Z issues. I think your bed stops moving for a layer or two so you get that extra thick layer, then it suddenly drops a mm or so and you get underextrusion or a gap, then it stops moving for another layer and gives you an extra thick layer again.
Try cleaning your Z screw. Does it usually happen at about the same distance from the bottom of the part? Often having one person slide the bed up and down with 2 hands and the other using a fingernail to insert some paper towel or tissue into the threading is all you need to do. Keep in mind it's a triple helix so you need to get all 3 threads (unlike say a normal screw which is a single spiral).
Posted
· Temperture, Closed chamber for my printer
A quick way to test if it is a heat retention issue is follow Erin@Fbrc8's suggestion (and a few others, she was just the first to tell me). Just tape a bit of plastic or bubble wrap in front of the open area. I would not cover the entire thing as it would close off the top. This may contribute to a heat build up in the other direction.
Posted
· Temperture, Closed chamber for my printer
I think gr5 is right, that it is a z-stage problem. But don't only look at the z-screw, check the z-bearings.
Lift the bed to the nozzle, and then push it down. or put a full filament spool on the bed. Do you feel/see/hear a point where it doesn't go smooth? With a filament spool it shouldn't get stuck.
If you want to check your z-bearings in detail, unscrew the z-nut from the bed. The bed is then free to move up and down, and you should feel almost no friction over the complete range.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,177
That looks like Z issues. I think your bed stops moving for a layer or two so you get that extra thick layer, then it suddenly drops a mm or so and you get underextrusion or a gap, then it stops moving for another layer and gives you an extra thick layer again.
Try cleaning your Z screw. Does it usually happen at about the same distance from the bottom of the part? Often having one person slide the bed up and down with 2 hands and the other using a fingernail to insert some paper towel or tissue into the threading is all you need to do. Keep in mind it's a triple helix so you need to get all 3 threads (unlike say a normal screw which is a single spiral).
Also add a tiny bit of grease of course.
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kmanstudios 1,120
A quick way to test if it is a heat retention issue is follow Erin@Fbrc8's suggestion (and a few others, she was just the first to tell me). Just tape a bit of plastic or bubble wrap in front of the open area. I would not cover the entire thing as it would close off the top. This may contribute to a heat build up in the other direction.
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tomnagel 126
I think gr5 is right, that it is a z-stage problem. But don't only look at the z-screw, check the z-bearings.
Lift the bed to the nozzle, and then push it down. or put a full filament spool on the bed. Do you feel/see/hear a point where it doesn't go smooth? With a filament spool it shouldn't get stuck.
If you want to check your z-bearings in detail, unscrew the z-nut from the bed. The bed is then free to move up and down, and you should feel almost no friction over the complete range.
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