Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

UM3 Door


Recommended Posts

Since there's no official solution yet from Ultimaker, here's my solution for an UM 3 door I'd like to share. It is opened / closed by lifting ~5mm and pulling the bottom handle. The top handles have a grabbing mechanism and centers the door:

IMG_20170329_092818.thumb.jpg.449a17581789e1e40f39a16d434927ab.jpg

IMG_20170329_093227.thumb.jpg.03a5170006aef2d6398e4c3cfae44bbe.jpg

IMG_20170329_093444.thumb.jpg.2102f7a09ec151cd060e61773e6d2ca6.jpg

IMG_20170329_093036.thumb.jpg.0fb778c1c1edf8993614c702a225ba14.jpg

Attention: the top handle / clamping mechanism needs to be sized and adjusted well, to prevent collision with the print head.

IMG_20170329_092818.thumb.jpg.449a17581789e1e40f39a16d434927ab.jpg

IMG_20170329_093227.thumb.jpg.03a5170006aef2d6398e4c3cfae44bbe.jpg

IMG_20170329_093444.thumb.jpg.2102f7a09ec151cd060e61773e6d2ca6.jpg

IMG_20170329_093036.thumb.jpg.0fb778c1c1edf8993614c702a225ba14.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · UM3 Door

Thanks for your replies.

Are you sure the door is hit? It looks like it's on the edge of hitting it, but did not notice it so far... I checked when designing the door, but to be honest, I also take out the door to catch the pre-priming dropping to prevent it from being dragged to the print area.

Otherwise, I'd opt to give Ultimaker at least a suggestion to adjust the priming position. Is that prime position hard-coded in firmware??? It's quite silly otherwise to have the head stick out per default that much during the priming.

The design is available in Onshape publicly, but since there's debate on the safety of this design, I'd not post a direct link yet (otherwise PM me).

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · UM3 Door

    The head will not stick out using the default prime positions. But it can when you use the maximum possible build volume.

    and here's how to change the prime position;

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/39606-change-prime-position-to-increase-build-space-ultimaker3

    Edited by Guest
    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · UM3 Door

    Nice.  But the print head is going to hit the door.  :(

    Nope, I've checked today, there's about 5mm clearance.

    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    You can push the head around by hand when the printer is off or when you first power it on but before you start a print. Push it all the way to the front. It sticks out. At least it does on my UM3.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · UM3 Door

    You can push the head around by hand when the printer is off or when you first power it on but before you start a print.  Push it all the way to the front.  It sticks out.  At least it does on my UM3.

     

    Ah, ok, that's what you mean. Yes, for my system as well it's possible to move the print head further than the default prime position. Does this mean that it's possible with default settings to protrude the door, or are custom settings needed in order to hit it? [edit: I see ultiajan already answered this question]

    Edited by Guest
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · UM3 Door

    Nice work! Do you have a parts list or some detailed instructions?

     

    For the adventurous (use at own risk), here it is: http://catch22.eu/3dprinting/u3door/

    Detailed instructions: here are some I could think of right now. Tricky part is finding the correct position to drill holes in the door itself (not too low, otherwise the extruder hits the clamps). There needs to be about 5mm play in z-direction between bottom clamps and top clamps, although the latches have slotted holes which aids well enough in drill hole accuracy I think. Best way to find the positions is to drill at least holes for the bottom and mount the bottom clamp, then find the correct position for the top clamps. The top clamps have sort of a centering mechanism, so both X and Z positions for the holes do matter. My suggestion for door material is to take something that can withstand some temperatures (mine is from 4mm polysterene, which can handle 75C, although I'd rather go a bit thicker than 4mm to give it some more rigidity). The clamps are made for M4 size screws, and ABS of course. Take also care for the remarks below/above using maximum possible build volume.

    Please let me know if the stl files are correct (I had to edit them for general usage by giving them the correct orientation).

    Edited by Guest
    • Like 1
    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Just another ideea

    Part1.thumb.JPG.e4637821ad1dfba9d92971e553e78eae.JPG

    Part1a.thumb.JPG.9f188c13b9ce437583bac866093d85c1.JPG

    Part1.thumb.JPG.e4637821ad1dfba9d92971e553e78eae.JPG

    Part1a.thumb.JPG.9f188c13b9ce437583bac866093d85c1.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · UM3 Door

    Cool! Now let's see if some hybrid of the 3 designs will pop-up :)

    Update here from my door: it's still a pleasure to work with, I did not have to adjust the prime positions or anything.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    20170423_175301.thumb.jpg.3df71156d92f30bc1391450e2e46c555.jpg

    20170423_175333.thumb.jpg.02c23a5035b24b4156bfc4f6e0afd740.jpg

    Ultimaker front cover (possible door)

    Can you see it ?

    Very hard to see.

    Ok.

    Try to put in an A3 laminator an pouch without paper.

    Any complicated problem has always a simple solution.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I fashioned this door originally for my UM2 Ext. Modified the hinges for my UM3 Ext. Print head does not come in contact with the door in normal use.

    Door3.thumb.jpg.056be976dc5cafc19dd514efb2f9631f.jpg

    Door1.thumb.jpg.c41192d9221d71e62d491430c87f6c7b.jpg

    Door2.thumb.jpg.12cc3987932d00f9a9af014bdbae3db7.jpg

    Putting the hinge pivots at the outer corner of the printer allows the door to swing open completely against the printer and out of the way.

    Hinges and handle are PLA, as is the control knob with a crank for improved ergonomics. Ultimaker Robot on a keychain to keep track of my USB drive.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · UM3 Door

    That looks cool!! I wonder how the hinges are helt in their position. Looks like sort of a clamping mechanism? Does that work well enough to keep them in position?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    That looks cool!! I wonder how the hinges are helt in their position. Looks like sort of a clamping mechanism? Does that work well enough to keep them in position?

    The hinge pins wrap around the front panel and are secured by a small screw into the outside panel of the printer.

    5a333a94215be_HingePin.thumb.JPG.5abaa67bd3ca7159e45cf0a208ad104a.JPG

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · UM3 Door

    The hinge pins wrap around the front panel and are secured by a small screw into the outside panel of the printer.

    Ah, so I guess replacement screws which are longer than the original screws that are already there? Again, very nice! Easier to mount as well compared to my design. Would you be willing to share your design?

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The original files for the hinge and handle were available on Thingiverse:

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:767741

    The hinge pivots needed to be modified to suit the narrower front bezel of the UM3 vs the UM2 for which it was originally designed. I'm happy to share my modified files if you have no means of editing the original STL files. Is there a means to do so via this site, or do I need to put them in the cloud via DropBox?

    BTW, I printed all of the files standing on edge, not laying flat. Had to sink them into the build plate as I recall (negative Z location). No brim was necessary.

    I used .090 LEXAN Poly carbonate sheet instead of Plexiglas. Tougher, more stable, clearer and much less prone to scratching.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Instead of putting the STL files on drop box please put them on youmagine as dropbox is probably only temporary and you may be tempted to delete the STL out of your dropbox account within the next 10 or 20 years. People (not many but still) 10 years from now will still be interested in this.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Thanks gr5 for taking care of that. Hopefully mhotze will take advantage of your generosity on my behalf. It's a very nicely done post of the files.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
     Share

    • Our picks

      • The Ultimaker Showcase — October 14. What's new?
        Your dear friends at Ultimaker have some exciting news and insights for you!
         
        • 0 replies
      • New here? Get ahead with a free onboarding course
        Hi,
         
        Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process. A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. That is why we have a onboarding course ready for
        Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle, Ultimaker S5, Ultimaker S3 Ultimaker 2+ Connect.   
        They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. 
        Ready? Register your product here in just 60 seconds.
          • Like
        • 8 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...