First of all thank you for your answer!
Yes, I´m using the autolevelling function right before every print.
Luckily i have a metal feeler so that i can try your suggestion.
How do you raise the build plate to 0?
I tried diretclty at the printer: System > Build plate > Raise. The build plate is raised but about 2 mm under the nozzle.
Edited by GuestHiya,
I will have a look and sort out a method for you to get as close as possible.
but please understand that unless you have the glass plate professionally polished flat you will struggle to get 0 tolerance.
I should do this on my machine anyway, last night spent it alligning the x-y so they run perpendicular to each other.
Stuff that I would check if this would happen to me on a um3
- Bed glass flatness?
To check Z 0 you can
- ativate dev mode on the printer
- access by ssh to your printer root@ipaddressoforinter
Password Ultimaker
Then I would do sendGcode G28 Z
To home Z
Then sendGcode G0 Z2 F8000
To move bed to position 2mm
If all checks, then move to 0 with sendGcode G0 Z0
Always with a hand near the power button just in case something goes wrong.
If any of this sounds like basic alien language, then don’t do it 
The combination active leveling and @rebekah_harper's suggestion does not seem compatible, manually level the buildplate first.
If after following @rebekah_harper's suggestion this is still affecting your print quality, call your reseller for support, they can help you determine if your bed is outside of specs, etc.
Current active leveling measures 3 points and uses that to define the plane to print on, it assumes the bed is otherwise flat....
Instead the bed can indeed be as unflat as 0.5-6 mm, but that was a bad batch of glass plates indeed.
Edited by GuestHiya,
I will have a look and sort out a method for you to get as close as possible.
but please understand that unless you have the glass plate professionally polished flat you will struggle to get 0 tolerance.
I should do this on my machine anyway, last night spent it alligning the x-y so they run perpendicular to each other.
Thank you!!
Stuff that I would check if this would happen to me on a um3
- Bed glass flatness?
To check Z 0 you can
- ativate dev mode on the printer
- access by ssh to your printer root@ipaddressoforinter
Password Ultimaker
Then I would do sendGcode G28 Z
To home Z
Then sendGcode G0 Z2 F8000
To move bed to position 2mm
If all checks, then move to 0 with sendGcode G0 Z0
Always with a hand near the power button just in case something goes wrong.
If any of this sounds like basic alien language, then don’t do it
alien language sounds about accurate i have a friend who does understand what you wrote. he will help me tommorow and i will report how it worked! 
1
Stuff that I would check if this would happen to me on a um3
- Bed glass flatness?
To check Z 0 you can
- ativate dev mode on the printer
- access by ssh to your printer root@ipaddressoforinter
Password Ultimaker
Then I would do sendGcode G28 Z
To home Z
Then sendGcode G0 Z2 F8000
To move bed to position 2mm
If all checks, then move to 0 with sendGcode G0 Z0
Always with a hand near the power button just in case something goes wrong.
If any of this sounds like basic alien language, then don’t do it
alien language sounds about accurate
i have a friend who does understand what you wrote. he will help me tommorow and i will report how it worked!
Is better explained there
Basically with sendGcode you can control the machine like if you had pronterface usb access. Also afaik try to leave the second core switched back in since the z offset is done by the printer. This is important to avoid smashing the bed onto the core. So move the stuff slowly and remember to home all Before moving it. This way you don’t get surprises.
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rebekah_harper 60
Hiya,
are you using the autolevelling function?
I would like to add that no build plate is perfectly flat. there have been some with a variation of 0.6 mm (not just one plate) which was a bad batch but since addressing that with the UK importer I have not seen any more.
what I would suggest is calibrate the build plate, then raise the build plate to 0.
ensuring there is no material poking out of the nozzle, move the head by hand around the build plate and check using the calibration card.
if the discrepencies are in the corners ie: front right is high and rear left is low then you can adjust front right screw down which will in turn raise the rear left slightly.
fine tuning this will take a while is the layer resolution is key. the best method is using a metal feeler. something like this: Feeler
it can take a while but not impossible. but at the end of the day your will never get a perfectly flat build plate and hence levelling it to a 0 tollerance won't be possible.
on my UM2+ i did add some card underneath one of the rear corners, just to raise it a little. this might be another avenue to explore if one corner is being an issue.
just keep checking again and again until you're happy.
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