Ultimaker 2 dead after installing extrusion upgrade!

[likelyitem 1]

Hi Guys

I wonder if anyone can help me troubleshoot a problem? I have a UM2 which I've owned for a few years with no problems. In the last few days I fitted the extrusion upgrade kit. All went well with the upgrade and I did 2 small prints which came out great. I start it on a third print, come back an hour later to find the printer has died mid print...screen off, lights off, no signs of life! This was yestarday and it still wont switch on!

Things I've checked.....

Power brick blue light is on.

24v is being supplied to the main circuit board

No LEDs light up on the board.

No obvious broken or damaged wires

All connecters on the main board are plugged in where they should be.

Ive checked the voltage between TP24 and TP16 on the main board (which I understand should be 5V), but I get nothing.

The main board version is 2.1.1

Any Ideas if there is anything else I can check or am I looking at a new main board?

Many Thanks

Mike

[gr5 2,173]

So the board has 24V? You measured the 24V actually on the board?

It's probably not this but I have had weird brick issues that fix themselves after an entire day. So I would unplug that brick from AC, turn on the printer to try to drain it faster and not plug the brick back in until that little LED turns off (could be 24 hours or longer).

But it sounds more like the 5V regulator. I'd probe that part. Actually is there maybe a 12V regulator also? I don't remember any longer - I haven't looked at the schematic in like a year. You have the schematic?

Also feel the 5V (and 12V?) regulators to see if maybe a short on the board is causing the regulator to get real hot while it tries to send all the current to the short.

[gr5 2,173]

You can get a really cheap UM2 PCB from china - not sure how good they are. Or get one from a UM2 reseller.

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Mike,

Check TP76 or TP77, this is the VCC/2 voltage that should be switched 24 VDC and present when the printer on/off switch is on.

Edit.

If this voltage is present, your 5VDC regulator might be faulty.

If there is no voltage present at those test points, your printer on/off switch might be faulty.

Good luck.

Thanks.

Torgeir.

Edited December 13, 2017 by Guest

[likelyitem 1]

Thanks for your quick replies guys )

Definately getting a voltage on the board where the power connector is soldered to the board. Its actually measuring 28 volts, but I guess this is within the normal parameters of the power brick? I had the power brick turned off for a good 12 hours as I'd read about them sometimes needing a rest lol.

Also measured 28 volts at TP76 and TP77 with the power switch ON, and no volts with the power switch OFF.

From what I've read previously on here I should be getting 5 volts between TP16 and TP24 but I get nothing, which is leading me to believe its the regulator.

Any ideas where the regulator is and if its an easy fix? I'm reasonable ok with a soldering iron as long as its not too fiddly!

Many thanks

Mike

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Mike,

Just some toughs, since your computer have been working for quite some time, I'll suggest there might be a faulty wiring inside your new extruder as the hot end cooling fan is directly wired to +5VDC without any fuse. Maybe there is a short all the time and the protection circuit would not turn on because of a constant short. So, try to unplug the 5 V fan (J34) and try to power the printer up..

Anyway, we have the full wiring for this card (V2.1.1) and I'm using the same one as you.

Here is a direct link to this PCB.

https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_(x1)/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir

[Torgeir 242]

Ops. forgot to mention that the 5V regulator is U6 and the type is: A4403GEUTR-T.

Torgeir.

[gr5 2,173]

28V is not normal. Even 24.5V is not normal. Are you sure your leads aren't kind of floating? Try reversing the meter leads and see if it goes to -28V. It could be that the 28V was enough to blow up the 5v regulator but it seems hard to believe that a regulator that is designed for 24V can't take 28V. The above fan theory seems more likely.

[likelyitem 1]

Torgeir...thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately unplugging the 5V fan made no difference and there is no voltage at those 2 pins

gr5...Having done a few more checks it seems the voltage ranges from 28 volts when I switch the brick on, which then settles to about 26.5. Not sure if that is normal or not for these power bricks. However I checked the voltage regulator part number that Torgeir mentioned and it's max input is 46 volts.

In the mean time I've ordered one of these....

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Quality-3D-Printer-Accessories-2016-Latest-Ultimaker-V2-1-4-Control-Board-Ultimaker-2-Generations/32662872341.html

....but I would like to try and figure out whats gone wrong before I plug my new main board in!

Thanks for your help guys

Mike

[Torgeir 242]

Hi Mike,

Great and make sure that there is no short or suspected connection inside the new extruder unit, as this is very rare that it is just happen like that..

The new board looks right..

Good luck.

Thanks

Torgeir.

[likelyitem 1]

Just a quick update. I've now installed my new cheap chinese main board and my ultimaker 2 (now a 2 plus with the upgrade kit) is currently working away on its first print...fingers crossed it gets to the end........?!?!?!

 

Still not sure what happened to my original main board but I guess these thing happen from time to time.

 

mike

[likelyitem 1]

[gr5 2,173]

That's great news.  Again, my power supply is 24V rock solid - never 26V but if the regulator can handle up to 46V maybe that's okay - but there are other specificaions to worry about - like total power dissipated which is current times voltage drop.  But 26V versus 24V seems minor regarding a little extra power/heat on that regulator.