hey kmanstudios
i think iam a bit expierienced (10 other printers at home) and with temps and speed i have tried it but it doesnt work out
with my ultimaker 2+ i didnt have the problem (same file same settings in cura same material)
so my gues is that there has to something in the printer or in the cura backend
Hi, your result is normal, circles are always smaller. Your technology does not print circles, it prints straight lines - albeit for a circles LOTS of very short lines. Imagine an arc and drawing a straight line from one end to the other, as you see your line will be inside the circular edge which is why your end result has a smaller diameter. You need to play with your diameter dimension to get it right. With some experience you will probably get it right 2nd or 3rd time, if not 1st time. If you are a beginner then it will probably take a few more attempts. I have some notes somewhere but for now I would try 6.5 and work from there. Eventually you will get a feel for what the error percentage is on your printer with your filament at your settings. I am sure that if I printed a 6mm circle on my printer it would not produce 5.6mm exactly.
As @kmanstudios says, other factors come into play here and if I were doing an engineering job with a required tolerance of 100 microns I would never print faster than 30mm/s. If it were 50 microns then probably 20mm/s. Then again my printer is several years old and if you have a nice new one then you may fare better. With straight lines you should be able to get to 50 microns; I can m=normally hit 20-30microns on my machine and indeed I have seen 10-20 microns but I am not sure I would want to undertake a job that insisted on that; on a simple cube maybe but I am not convinced it is achievable consistently on more complex geometries.
guys as i sad
iam not a newbie realy i know ultimakers (UMO UM2 UM2+ and also UM3)
and the next problem is i recive files from customers that i cant change so it isnt normal that on one printer it works and on the new UM3XTD it doenst
4 hours ago, pepe2612 said:
the parts that i print looka good but the diemnsions doesnt fit (special on holes)
when i model a part with a hole of 6mm then the printer makes it 5.6mm
That's always happened to me on all my printers.
If you can't change the model then in Cura 3.X you can set horizontal expansion to -0.2 and it will increase hole diameters by 0.4mm. It's a very handy feature. But it will also make the exterior of the part another 0.2mm smaller all around in X and Y (0.4mm across).
4 hours ago, pepe2612 said:
Would not have known that....my apologies for not reading your mind and forcing you to go all caps on me. I hang my head in shame....I shall endeavor to persevere.
5 hours ago, pepe2612 said:hey guys
i have a big problem with my ultimaker 3 xtd
the parts that i print looka good but the diemnsions doesnt fit (special on holes)
when i model a part with a hole of 6mm then the printer makes it 5.6mm
the profile is the standart cura setting for silver metalic pla 0.1 mm layer
material is orginal ultimaker PLA silver metalic
firmware is 4.1.4 cura version is 3.10
can you help me
If your other machines work but one doesn't produce the same results, then clearly is a problem of the machine. I would inspect the x/y squareness and belt tension. You know, usual suspects to start with.
Also, ofc, um3 isn't as good for single prints as a um2/um2+ the nozzles all, is different, and specially the profiles in Cura have tons (literally 10-20-30) options just to make um3 prints 'look' good. It has very fast infills to compensate the slower max print speed, and even the nozzle size extrusion is change to 0.35 for a 0.4 to make the outside 'look' better but on the expensive of accuracy. Me and others have hit over and over to UM about this (some not publicly) and the need for a 'Engineer' mode where all the features that are there to make it 'look' ok get removed in the favour of precision and constant speed, things that are a must to get an accurate part and not just a nice thingiverse click-print. (yea, half rant there, but not unrelated).
So I would start by unhiding all the slicer settings and try to set at least, the nozzle size to the real nozzle size, the infill to the same speed of the rest of the print, and disable specially the acceleration/jerk automatic control, it has huge impact on how the print looks and how precise it's vs the object real size (specially on corners)
Edited by neotkoOn 23/12/2017 at 2:57 AM, neotko said:
If your other machines work but one doesn't produce the same results, then clearly is a problem of the machine. I would inspect the x/y squareness and belt tension. You know, usual suspects to start with.
Also, ofc, um3 isn't as good for single prints as a um2/um2+ the nozzles all, is different, and specially the profiles in Cura have tons (literally 10-20-30) options just to make um3 prints 'look' good. It has very fast infills to compensate the slower max print speed, and even the nozzle size extrusion is change to 0.35 for a 0.4 to make the outside 'look' better but on the expensive of accuracy. Me and others have hit over and over to UM about this (some not publicly) and the need for a 'Engineer' mode where all the features that are there to make it 'look' ok get removed in the favour of precision and constant speed, things that are a must to get an accurate part and not just a nice thingiverse click-print. (yea, half rant there, but not unrelated).
So I would start by unhiding all the slicer settings and try to set at least, the nozzle size to the real nozzle size, the infill to the same speed of the rest of the print, and disable specially the acceleration/jerk automatic control, it has huge impact on how the print looks and how precise it's vs the object real size (specially on corners)
Very Interesting remarks...
When one needs to print accurate parts it seems better to buy a UM2+ ... ??
But how to deal with soluble infills ??
7 hours ago, alex jaspers said:Very Interesting remarks...
When one needs to print accurate parts it seems better to buy a UM2+ ... ??
But how to deal with soluble infills ??
On um3 you could achieve same results, slower ofc. Is a matter of cura settings and many options they added to compensate the speed and improve outside look. Double extruder makes all more complex also, but as a single vs single extrusion the um2+ is better indeed.
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kmanstudios 1,120
Hello and welcome to the forums.
The first thing to remember is that this is not precision printing as it is melted plastic, pushed through a tiny tube and the squished a bit into the buildplate and then lyered. Depending on a few things, this can present pulling of materials and such.
You can play with temps and speeds and carry out measurements. Also, while doing that, you may develop a feel for what tolerances you have to work with. Especially with fitting parts and their tightness or looseness. Start with very small objects that print quickly and do not use a lot of filament.
There are a few people here who are very knowledgeable about this and can give a more concise answer, but temps and speed is where I would start. Maybe a bit slower to reduce the material being pulled about as it makes teeny circles.
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