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astrodenny

Print sticking to bed

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My prints stick to the bed and it takes both force and an act of nature to remove the print off the build plate. Is this because my Z-axis alignment is too close to the print bed? When I level my bed, I use a piece of paper to help measure the amount of gap between the print and hot end. Usually it's enough to grab the paper with adequate friction but I can still slide it back and forth.

 

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Don't complain. This problem is not as bad as the opposite problem: part won't stick.

If you are printing parts smaller than 2 inches across you can reduce stickiness by using fresh blue tape and be careful *not* to clean it. My theory is that fresh blue tape has a small amount of the glue on the non-glue side. Or perhaps they coat the non stick side with some kind of wax to allow the tape to be peeled off the roll. Regardless, fresh blue tape doesn't hold the part as well and for a small part that is often okay.

To get the PLA to stick well to the tape you can clean the tape with isopropyl alcohol or just print lots of parts on the same spot of your blue tape.

So anyway, bed leveling is probably fine. You shouldn't complain. For larger parts, 4 inches across, you will need this sticking power to prevent warping/lifting.

 

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I don't know about that ... and not complaining - the ultimaker prints great. However, parts that are smaller than 2 inches still stick to my bed even with new tape. Not only that, I have to tear up the tape trying to remove the print as well as reapply new tape. So the problem still occurs with fresh tape. Both with or without alcohol. For 4 inch or more parts, it seems to stick, but I still need a bit more than usual force to get it off the bed (usually at the sacrifice of the newly taped bed). In some cases, the tape still stuck to the bottom and requires extra time to clean up.

 

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I generally assume that I'm going to sacrifice the tape for every print - I'd rather make sure that the object stays stuck, than worry about re-taping the bed. I use 6" wide tape, so replacing the tape takes no time at all, and the lack of seams helps ensure better adhesion, and a cleaner bottom surface.

If the tape gets stuck to the bottom of the print, just stand it in a few mm of alcohol for 5 or 10 mins - the tape will then slide off cleanly, leaving an undamaged bottom surface, with the tape crepe-paper pattern still intact.

 

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It's regular Scotch 2090 (aka 'Blue Tape'), custom cut in 6" widths. I get mine from tapecase.com. It's a little pricey in single rolls, but I'm thinking of buying a bulk lot and reselling it when I open my store, as it saves soooo much time, and really helps with print quality.

 

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Usually I have to give advice on how to get parts to stick better.

1) I guess there is something wrong with your tape. Consider getting a fresh roll of tape from anyplace that sells paint. Get the widest you can get. And don't clean it or wipe it.

2) You could try doing the opposite of what I usually advise - I usually advise raising the bed a little so the first layer is squished into the tape nicely, print first layer hotter (e.g. 240C) and print the first layer slower. I guess you should still probably do the slower thing but maybe lower your bed so the filament is only flattened slightly and print the first layer cooler - maybe 190C. You can change the temp after the first layer with either cura, pronterface, or ulticontroller. You won't get as beautiful of a bottom of your part if you don't squish the first layer - but it will definitely stick less because there will be air gaps between each "string".

This is just crazy - I'm advising you the opposite of what I learned to be a good thing - get parts to stick better.

 

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gr5 - I believe it as most seem to be having the opposite problem.

I'm still using the 3M 2090 tape that was included with Ultimaker. The parts are so gripped on, that I've ended up tearing through the tape and scratching up the acrylic print bed during removal. I suppose the bed ends up like this over time?

I'll test with another roll of painters tape. I went out and purchased more 3M 2090 and a roll of "Clean Release" Painters Tape by Duck. I'll try your advice and alternate layer temps while squishing the first layer. Thanks!

 

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Just an update, after using up the tape included by Ultimaker, I used a fresh roll of 3m 2090 and the prints are sticking less - much easier to remove, although still some minor force involved. Perhaps I had an unusual roll or just bad luck with the previous tape. By the way - I tried out the Duck "Clean Release" tape I mentioned however it gave me the opposite effect - it wouldn't stick at all!

Thanks everyone!

 

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