Ultimaker 2 - Shutdown on Buildplate Heatup

[Luvbread 0]

Evening,

 

I've lately experiences something weird:
The Printer was working perfectly fine until today. Since than, whenever the heatplate heats up, the whole machine shuts down and restarts alltogether. Printing without the heatplate heating up works totally and perfectly fine.

 

What could be done to fix the issue?

[gr5 2,172]

This is a common problem with the UM2 and the newer power supplies that ship with the UM2 and the UM3.  The UM3 actually has special code to keep the main bed heater from drawing too much power when the nozzles are both drawing power.

 

One fix is to just contact your reseller and have them ship you another power brick.  Don't ship back your current one until you get the new one.

 

Another fix is to buy the "GS" model and not the "GST" power brick.  Below are the 2 part numbers.  This will cost more but you will have a more reliable power supply  (GS doesn't meet efficiency requirements for certain countries so UM had to switch to GST).  But the GS bricks cost about $90 each.  Anyway that is the route I went.  It has a much larger "headroom" aka "power margin".

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B

 

A workaround while you are waiting for a replacement supply is to print on blue tape.  Make sure to re-level and make sure to clean the blue painters tape with isopropyl alcohol first.

 

Printing at a lower bed temperature is NOT a good workaround because the bed actually can draw more power at the lower temps (the resistance increases with temperature).
 

[Luvbread 0]

14 minutes ago, gr5 said:

This is a common problem with the UM2 and the newer power supplies that ship with the UM2 and the UM3.  The UM3 actually has special code to keep the main bed heater from drawing too much power when the nozzles are both drawing power.

 

One fix is to just contact your reseller and have them ship you another power brick.  Don't ship back your current one until you get the new one.

 

Another fix is to buy the "GS" model and not the "GST" power brick.  Below are the 2 part numbers.  This will cost more but you will have a more reliable power supply  (GS doesn't meet efficiency requirements for certain countries so UM had to switch to GST).  But the GS bricks cost about $90 each.  Anyway that is the route I went.  It has a much larger "headroom" aka "power margin".

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B

 

A workaround while you are waiting for a replacement supply is to print on blue tape.  Make sure to re-level and make sure to clean the blue painters tape with isopropyl alcohol first.

 

Printing at a lower bed temperature is NOT a good workaround because the bed actually can draw more power at the lower temps (the resistance increases with temperature).
 

Hey!

Thanks for the answer.

 

I have tought about a PSU Failure aswell at first, and thanks to your answer im sure about that now. I actually own a GS220A24 power brick already, would it still be recommended to switch over to the GST?

[fbrc8-erin 272]

I haven't seen reliability issues with the newer bricks and the UM2s. Are you having any issues with the power if you heat the bed but don't run the printhead? It's possible there could be an issue with the heated bed plate rather than the power supply.

[Luvbread 0]

2 hours ago, fbrc8-erin said:

I haven't seen reliability issues with the newer bricks and the UM2s. Are you having any issues with the power if you heat the bed but don't run the printhead? It's possible there could be an issue with the heated bed plate rather than the power supply.

 

Yes. The LEDs start to flash and the whole machine shuts down after heating up the build plate. Printing without the heat plate works just fine. 

[fbrc8-erin 272]

I think there could be a short in your heated bed then. If you've got a multimeter you can measure the connectors on the bed plate. Does your plate have a screw in terminal block or push fit connections on the underside?

[gr5 2,172]

I could be wrong - Erin's seen thousands of Um2s.  I've seen this problem on one (mine).  And maybe 2 other people on the forum had what seems like the same problem.  But try the non-GST.  And yes, look for black carbon charring in the area where the wires connect to the bed and where they connect to the PCB.