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This is a common problem and easy to fix (well I'm an electrical engineer). Basically there is an increased resistance somewhere in the path of the temp sensor which starts at the circuit board under the printer and goes to the bed through obvious wires (in that black sheathing) and through a connector to the board itself. The board is extremely unlikely to fail - the most common failure point is at either connector - wires can come loose and the connector itself can disconnect (barely) from the board.
I'd start by watching the temp while you poke around with your fingers where the wires connect to the board - it's at the back of the heated bed - 4 individual wires - the 2 smaller ones are the sensor wires. Push and pull and if the temperature changes suddenly then great news - you found the problem area. You can repeat for the circuit board but that requires removing the bottom cover (not that hard).
Assuming the problem is at the bed - you can take the bed all apart pretty easily by removing the 3 leveling screws. Start by removing the glass, then undo the 3 leveling screws comlpetely. Watch out for washers and really pause and stare at how it goes back together. Lay the parts out in a safe spot where you won't bump them and lose what order they go. Often a washer sticks to the plate (the grease acts as glue).
Once the wire is loose - remove and reinsert the 2 temp wires and power the printer up again to see if fixed. Report back.
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Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,172
This is a common problem and easy to fix (well I'm an electrical engineer). Basically there is an increased resistance somewhere in the path of the temp sensor which starts at the circuit board under the printer and goes to the bed through obvious wires (in that black sheathing) and through a connector to the board itself. The board is extremely unlikely to fail - the most common failure point is at either connector - wires can come loose and the connector itself can disconnect (barely) from the board.
I'd start by watching the temp while you poke around with your fingers where the wires connect to the board - it's at the back of the heated bed - 4 individual wires - the 2 smaller ones are the sensor wires. Push and pull and if the temperature changes suddenly then great news - you found the problem area. You can repeat for the circuit board but that requires removing the bottom cover (not that hard).
Assuming the problem is at the bed - you can take the bed all apart pretty easily by removing the 3 leveling screws. Start by removing the glass, then undo the 3 leveling screws comlpetely. Watch out for washers and really pause and stare at how it goes back together. Lay the parts out in a safe spot where you won't bump them and lose what order they go. Often a washer sticks to the plate (the grease acts as glue).
Once the wire is loose - remove and reinsert the 2 temp wires and power the printer up again to see if fixed. Report back.
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