Power Trip at the beginning of print

[Eric8sg 0]

Hi,

 

I am facing the issue that when I start my print job, UM3 move to switch the nozzle. Before it could reach, there seems to have a power trip causing UM3 to stop.

See video on YouTube https://youtu.be/Fi_AXEE4Mg4

It had occurred during my last 3-5 prints where it still can print for about 15min before power trip.

And now, it just failed whenever I start my print.

Need help to debug this issue.

 

Thanks & Best regards

Eric

[gr5 2,224]

First make really really sure your power cable isn't loose.  There is a cylindrical clip thing on the outside of the plug.  The cord should not come out unless you slide that back - make sure it's completely latched into the printer and also make sure the AC cord is firmly in the power brick.

 

If that is all fine then it's 90% the power brick.  They shut down very briefly if they think too much power is being drawn and the power failure is only milliseconds so it looks just like a reboot but it's really a power glitch.

 

Contact your reseller about getting a new power brick.

[gr5 2,224]

@fbrc8-erin - note that these seem to be common.

[fbrc8-erin 296]

Hi, Eric,

 

I've only seen this a couple of times; your case is unusual because normally if I see a power cycle like this it's right at the start of the print. Does the same thing also happen if you manually heat both Cores and the bed without the motors moving?

[Eric8sg 0]

Hi,

Thanks for the recommendation.

I had tired to heat up the 2 core to 150 degree C and base plate to 85 degree C.

No power cycle occurred. What is the recommended test temperature?

 

Any other way of testing if the power brick is the issue?

 

regards

Eric

[gr5 2,224]

Turn the fans on from the menu.  Set all 3 heaters to a temperature above what they currently are (at least 20C) so they are all on full.  Then home the x,y axes.  That moves everything but the extruder (the Z doesn't move much during a print).

 

Anyway I saw your video.  Unless you have a loose cable, it's the power brick.  This is common enough that I've seen this 3 times on the forum even just in the last 3 months and replacing the brick always fixes it.

 

You should be able to get a replacement for free from your reseller.  Or you can just buy one.  If you buy one I recommend this without the "T".  "GS" I like better than "GST".  GST is more efficient but GS has a larger margin.  In other words the GS one can put out more power.  But the GST one should work fine with your printer - you just need a new one.

 

Any power supply that puts out 24V and 10A (or more than 10A) will work fine but in that case you would need to cut the power cable and do some soldering.

 

Meanwell power supplies.  

GST220A24-R7B
GS220A24-R7B

[Eric8sg 0]

Thank you so much, I have confirmed that it is the power brick issue.