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You have 2 issues. You have "play" aka "backlash" and you have some underextrusion. Only maybe 30% underextruded.
I don't know that printer well but the most likely issue of the underextrusion is you are printing too fast for that temperature. You get better quality at lower temperature so I recommend you cut the print speed in half. Be patient and you will be rewarded. If you don't care much about quality you can instead raise the nozzle temp to 230C.
I'm confident you have backlash because you don't have symmetrical separation of walls (right side in photo is clearly worse).
The second issue, play/backlash can have many causes. Most common is loose belts. If you have rubber belts, pluck them and the pitch should be typically 100Hz. You can use a guitar tuner to check. anywhere 75hz to 200 hz should be fine. It depends on how long the belts are for the pitch also. But high friction can also cause backlash or other things. Basically with power off push on the nozzle gently and see how much the nozzle moves before the stepper moves. That amount is backlash for that axis. Or push on the bed in the Y direction (it looks like your bed moves - not sure as I don't know this printer) and if it moves at all without the stepper moving - that is the amount of backlash you have in Y direction. If you printed this in the orientation in the photo then it's probably the X axis with the backlash problem (the axis that moves left to right over that print in the orientation in the photo).
Oh - and don't try to fix this by increasing flow to 130% - that will just make the pressure in the head even higher and likely cause a complete failure. I always print flow=100% but it's safe to go up to 110% on most printers if you are really pushing the printer a little beyond it's limits (the colder the filament the more viscous it gets and the less you can cram through that tiny nozzle).
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gr5 2,230
You have 2 issues. You have "play" aka "backlash" and you have some underextrusion. Only maybe 30% underextruded.
I don't know that printer well but the most likely issue of the underextrusion is you are printing too fast for that temperature. You get better quality at lower temperature so I recommend you cut the print speed in half. Be patient and you will be rewarded. If you don't care much about quality you can instead raise the nozzle temp to 230C.
I'm confident you have backlash because you don't have symmetrical separation of walls (right side in photo is clearly worse).
The second issue, play/backlash can have many causes. Most common is loose belts. If you have rubber belts, pluck them and the pitch should be typically 100Hz. You can use a guitar tuner to check. anywhere 75hz to 200 hz should be fine. It depends on how long the belts are for the pitch also. But high friction can also cause backlash or other things. Basically with power off push on the nozzle gently and see how much the nozzle moves before the stepper moves. That amount is backlash for that axis. Or push on the bed in the Y direction (it looks like your bed moves - not sure as I don't know this printer) and if it moves at all without the stepper moving - that is the amount of backlash you have in Y direction. If you printed this in the orientation in the photo then it's probably the X axis with the backlash problem (the axis that moves left to right over that print in the orientation in the photo).
Oh - and don't try to fix this by increasing flow to 130% - that will just make the pressure in the head even higher and likely cause a complete failure. I always print flow=100% but it's safe to go up to 110% on most printers if you are really pushing the printer a little beyond it's limits (the colder the filament the more viscous it gets and the less you can cram through that tiny nozzle).
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Connor240 0
Thank you for the input. I will go ahead and try to up the flow
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