FilaPrint ABS Settings, Ultimaker 2+

[SpaceDawg 2]

Hi All,

 

Firstly I have been very happy with the Ultimaker filaments.  However, I need to produce a lot of ABS prints at a lower cost therefore I decided to buy some FilaPrint ABS (natural colour).

 

I've tried it, but the initial layer does not like sticking to the print bed.  So I'm wondering is anyone else has used this material and if so what your settings are.  I will be using a .4MM print head onto Glass with Glue.

 

If you can help it would be great.

Edited November 7, 2018 by SpaceDawg
forgot the printer

[Smithy 1,144]

I have no experience with FilaPrint ABS, but ABS and also PETG generally don't stick very well to my bed only with glue.

So I used for the last prints the UM adhesion sheets, works very well and I recently also bought 3DLac and Dimafix spray which should be also very good. I tested 3DLac with PETG and the adhesion was very good.

 

Additionally, you have to heat your bed to 90-110° (I assume you do) and you should level your bed very well.

[SpaceDawg 2]

This is odd, I have the material setup for 110c for the buildplate in cura, but when in operation it only goes to 80c?  Any suggestions?

 

[Smithy 1,144]

Do you have an enclosure for the printer, a front door or something similar?

[SpaceDawg 2]

Hi,

 

Yes I have the enclosure on and now an Avery sheet.  I have just manually set the bed temperature to 110c, looks like its not set in the cura software although the material setup is 110c.  It was only going to 80c.

 

 

[Smithy 1,144]

I am not sure what's the maximum of the UM2+ heated bed, probably not 110, but should be higher than 80.

 

Sorry, I have no more idea....

[dxp 23]

Maybe you want to look here:

Change Max heated bed temperature to 120 deg

On 12/19/2016 at 3:07 PM, ultiarjan said:

Think  the answer is yes, you can go higher than 100c, but I never heard anybody doing 120c.

But NO IDEA IF IT'S SAFE, nor any idea what it'll do to the life expectancy of the bed.

I never use higher than 95c (ABS) as even reaching 100c takes ages, even enclosed.

[SpaceDawg 2]

Ok, so looking at the printer the bed and head temperatures are set when you select the type of material when you load it up and are not updated during the print using the cura file.

 

So, I have fiddled a little and now have half the print ok, I'm going to very carefully level the bed and see if this affects the print, using the UM2+ default setting.

 

[Smithy 1,144]

Good luck and give us some feedback, please.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Ultimaker brand ABS is a bit different than most ABS, in general most brands need a higher print temperature than the default Ultimaker profiles. The UM2 bed can reach more than 100c but it takes a long time, when printing ABS it saves time, but more  importantly increases layer adhesion, if you cover the machine.  Use a front  cover at minimum.

 

example of cheap DIY options....

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel

 

[geert_2 557]

I found that when setting the bed temp to 90°C (for PET), it only reached 80°C in the area where it was printing. But it did reach 90°C in the other corners, where it was not printing (it was small model).

 

The cause was that the air from the nozzle-cooling fans cooled the glass too much. And glass being a poor conductor, it seems the heat can not keep up traveling upwards from the aluminum baseplate fast enough through the glass.

 

This was measured with an infrared thermometer gun, which I found in a hardware shop for ca. 35 euro if I remember well.

 

I am not saying that this is your problem, but it might be worth checking if you have an IR-thermometer available.

 

[SpaceDawg 2]

Hi,

 

Quick update, I gave up with trying FilaPrint.  Ive put back in Ultimaker Black ABS and it adhered ok and produced a print (not as good as white ABS though).  It's a bit disappointing.

[Powerflip 0]

Try PolyMax PLA. Its better than ABS. 

PolyMax PLA has an impact resistance of up to nine times that of regular PLA, and better overall mechanical properties than ABS.

It's much easier to print and a heated bed is not necessary.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

No material is "better" than another in general. Polymax PLA is uncomparable to ABS as it has a glass transition temperature of only 60 celsius, while ABS is around 85 - 105 celsius (depending on the brand).

[Powerflip 0]

But that's the only disadvantage. 

 

I have not really problems with ABS.  I use Hairspray and turn off the fans.

Is it possible to turn on the fans and lower the speed in special areas?  For example first layer for bridges. There I need the cooling and lower speed to get better results.

My Cura/simplify3d experience is not really high to solve the problem.

[dxp 23]

Cura has some experimental bridge settings. Maybe it helps.

 

[SpaceDawg 2]

So, has anyone here used an Ultimaker 2+ with ABS which is not Ultimaker?  The irony I have is my old cheap 3D printer did work with other ABS products :(

[Smithy 1,144]

Which adhesion methods have you tried? Only glue will not help with ABS or not with all brands.

So try the UM adhesions sheets, Dimafix Sprax, hair spray, 3DLac spray, .......

 

I got good adhesion with the UM adhesion sheets and Fillamentum ASA which is like ABS. Without the sheets, it was not sticking at all to the bed.

[SpaceDawg 2]

Do you use non Ultimaker ABS?

[Smithy 1,144]

5 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Fillamentum ASA which is like ABS

 

Yes....

[SpaceDawg 2]

Hi,

 

Ok so that's FASA on an UM"+?  I just read the specs on it and its 80-100c bed temperature.  I might get some to try, I use the UM2+ cover and adhesion sheets, as well as a glue bed.  I was just looking for something a little less costly than UM ABS.

 

Thanks for letting me know.

[SpaceDawg 2]

Just ordered some, lets see how it goes.

 

 

[Smithy 1,144]

Fillamentum materials are good in my opinion and they are cheap compared to other brands. I printed some parts in ASA for outside use and they come out without warping with the UM adhesion sheets.

 

Normally I try to avoid ABS because of the bad smell of the fumes, but I haven't found an alternative for UV resistant materials other than ASA so I gave it a try. Smelled a little bit but was not too bad.

[SpaceDawg 2]

the UV is the issue I have, see antenna design attached.

[Smithy 1,144]

Then you should use ASA which is more UV resistant than ABS which will get discolored after some time.

 

My parts are out in the garden for 2 months, so too less to say if it is really UV resistant, but theoretically, it should.