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SpaceDawg

FilaPrint ABS Settings, Ultimaker 2+

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Hi All,

 

Firstly I have been very happy with the Ultimaker filaments.  However, I need to produce a lot of ABS prints at a lower cost therefore I decided to buy some FilaPrint ABS (natural colour).

 

I've tried it, but the initial layer does not like sticking to the print bed.  So I'm wondering is anyone else has used this material and if so what your settings are.  I will be using a .4MM print head onto Glass with Glue.

 

If you can help it would be great.

Edited by SpaceDawg
forgot the printer

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I have no experience with FilaPrint ABS, but ABS and also PETG generally don't stick very well to my bed only with glue.

So I used for the last prints the UM adhesion sheets, works very well and I recently also bought 3DLac and Dimafix spray which should be also very good. I tested 3DLac with PETG and the adhesion was very good.

 

Additionally, you have to heat your bed to 90-110° (I assume you do) and you should level your bed very well.

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Maybe you want to look here:

Change Max heated bed temperature to 120 deg

On 12/19/2016 at 3:07 PM, ultiarjan said:

Think  the answer is yes, you can go higher than 100c, but I never heard anybody doing 120c.

But NO IDEA IF IT'S SAFE, nor any idea what it'll do to the life expectancy of the bed.

I never use higher than 95c (ABS) as even reaching 100c takes ages, even enclosed.

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Ok, so looking at the printer the bed and head temperatures are set when you select the type of material when you load it up and are not updated during the print using the cura file.

 

So, I have fiddled a little and now have half the print ok, I'm going to very carefully level the bed and see if this affects the print, using the UM2+ default setting.

 

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Ultimaker brand ABS is a bit different than most ABS, in general most brands need a higher print temperature than the default Ultimaker profiles. The UM2 bed can reach more than 100c but it takes a long time, when printing ABS it saves time, but more  importantly increases layer adhesion, if you cover the machine.  Use a front  cover at minimum.

 

example of cheap DIY options....

 

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-top-cover-clips

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-minimalist-front-panel

 

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I found that when setting the bed temp to 90°C (for PET), it only reached 80°C in the area where it was printing. But it did reach 90°C in the other corners, where it was not printing (it was small model).

 

The cause was that the air from the nozzle-cooling fans cooled the glass too much. And glass being a poor conductor, it seems the heat can not keep up traveling upwards from the aluminum baseplate fast enough through the glass.

 

This was measured with an infrared thermometer gun, which I found in a hardware shop for ca. 35 euro if I remember well.

 

I am not saying that this is your problem, but it might be worth checking if you have an IR-thermometer available.

 

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But that's the only disadvantage. 

 

I have not really problems with ABS.  I use Hairspray and turn off the fans.

Is it possible to turn on the fans and lower the speed in special areas?  For example first layer for bridges. There I need the cooling and lower speed to get better results.

My Cura/simplify3d experience is not really high to solve the problem.

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Which adhesion methods have you tried? Only glue will not help with ABS or not with all brands.

So try the UM adhesions sheets, Dimafix Sprax, hair spray, 3DLac spray, .......

 

I got good adhesion with the UM adhesion sheets and Fillamentum ASA which is like ABS. Without the sheets, it was not sticking at all to the bed.

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Fillamentum materials are good in my opinion and they are cheap compared to other brands. I printed some parts in ASA for outside use and they come out without warping with the UM adhesion sheets.

 

Normally I try to avoid ABS because of the bad smell of the fumes, but I haven't found an alternative for UV resistant materials other than ASA so I gave it a try. Smelled a little bit but was not too bad.

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