Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

FilaPrint ABS Settings, Ultimaker 2+

Recommended Posts

Hi All,


Firstly I have been very happy with the Ultimaker filaments.  However, I need to produce a lot of ABS prints at a lower cost therefore I decided to buy some FilaPrint ABS (natural colour).


I've tried it, but the initial layer does not like sticking to the print bed.  So I'm wondering is anyone else has used this material and if so what your settings are.  I will be using a .4MM print head onto Glass with Glue.


If you can help it would be great.

Edited by SpaceDawg
forgot the printer

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have no experience with FilaPrint ABS, but ABS and also PETG generally don't stick very well to my bed only with glue.

So I used for the last prints the UM adhesion sheets, works very well and I recently also bought 3DLac and Dimafix spray which should be also very good. I tested 3DLac with PETG and the adhesion was very good.


Additionally, you have to heat your bed to 90-110° (I assume you do) and you should level your bed very well.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe you want to look here:

Change Max heated bed temperature to 120 deg

On 12/19/2016 at 3:07 PM, ultiarjan said:

Think  the answer is yes, you can go higher than 100c, but I never heard anybody doing 120c.

But NO IDEA IF IT'S SAFE, nor any idea what it'll do to the life expectancy of the bed.

I never use higher than 95c (ABS) as even reaching 100c takes ages, even enclosed.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, so looking at the printer the bed and head temperatures are set when you select the type of material when you load it up and are not updated during the print using the cura file.


So, I have fiddled a little and now have half the print ok, I'm going to very carefully level the bed and see if this affects the print, using the UM2+ default setting.


  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ultimaker brand ABS is a bit different than most ABS, in general most brands need a higher print temperature than the default Ultimaker profiles. The UM2 bed can reach more than 100c but it takes a long time, when printing ABS it saves time, but more  importantly increases layer adhesion, if you cover the machine.  Use a front  cover at minimum.


example of cheap DIY options....





Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found that when setting the bed temp to 90°C (for PET), it only reached 80°C in the area where it was printing. But it did reach 90°C in the other corners, where it was not printing (it was small model).


The cause was that the air from the nozzle-cooling fans cooled the glass too much. And glass being a poor conductor, it seems the heat can not keep up traveling upwards from the aluminum baseplate fast enough through the glass.


This was measured with an infrared thermometer gun, which I found in a hardware shop for ca. 35 euro if I remember well.


I am not saying that this is your problem, but it might be worth checking if you have an IR-thermometer available.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Introducing Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Beta
      Ultimaker Cura 3.6 | Beta is available. It comes with new features, bug fixes, and UX improvements. We would really like to have your feedback on it to make our stable release as good as it can be. As always, you can download the beta for free from our website, for Windows, MacOS, and Linux.
        • Like
      • 92 replies
    • Print Core CC | Red for Ruby
      Q: For some users, abrasive materials may be a new subject matter. Can you explain what it is that makes a material abrasive when you are not sure which print core to use?
      A: Materials which are hard in a solid piece (like metals, ceramics and carbon fibers) will generally also wear down the nozzle. In general one should assume...
        • Like
      • 30 replies
    • "Back To The Future" using Generative Design & Investment Casting
      Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts the energy usage of the product during it’s service life.
        • Like
      • 12 replies

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!