Converted UM2+ to UM3+ with Mark2

[superdave42 13]

I was able to successfully convert my UM2  to a UM2+  then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head.

 

Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !.  cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores !

 

I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol.   I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired"  the CORE connections to the main cable header lol.

 

LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though.

Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware.

 

I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc.   then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had.    at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's  etc.

 

Anyway,  this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head  😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂

 

Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket.

Mark2 Print core swap

 

Enoy,   Dave

[Torgeir 289]

Hi superdave42,

 

A great way of updating an "old" UM2!!!

Very impressing, -this should be an upgrade Ultimaker could offer?

 

Thanks.

 

Torgeir.

[superdave42 13]

1 hour ago, Torgeir said:

Hi superdave42,

 

A great way of updating an "old" UM2!!!

Very impressing, -this should be an upgrade Ultimaker could offer?

 

Thanks.

 

Torgeir.

Cool,   Ultimaker would not offer this as an upgrade.  It's a super hack lol. just fun for the sake of modding.

 

[artistebot 3]

Looks great. Could you describe what mods you made to the UM3 head? Pictures? I am wondering if a 3D printed head with 3rd party cores would work?

 

Cheers

 

 

[superdave42 13]

27 minutes ago, artistebot said:

Looks great. Could you describe what mods you made to the UM3 head? Pictures? I am wondering if a 3D printed head with 3rd party cores would work?

 

Cheers

 

 

Hello,  the pic above is the only modification I did to the head assembly.

I just removed all the chips ( black IC's)  and all the SMT resistors,  then added some jumper wires between the CORE connectors and the main head cable header.

The sheet of paper in the pic above shows the pin mapping. 

 

It works good !

 

You can totally 3D print a head etc.   I chose to use the OEM head and PCB because of the mechanical design  for the Cores to sit properly, raise up and down etc.  i.e  I did it the expensive way lol.

[3DukeEngineering 2]

@superdave42 I was contemplating this last night and found this post now seeing you have done it! I have 2 x UM2s I’m planing on converting to this setup

 

do you have any further info on wiring... I’m wondering if you managed to retain the white 10wire print head cable? Or if you managed to utelise a common power supply or ground between any individual heaters and temp sensors?

 

would be nice being able to use the 10pin connector to interface everything with no more than 10 wires.

[PrintMonkey 1]

Has anyone done this mod recently, to share more details? Having two heads that retract is essential. There's no information on how the retraction part worked - its a shame SuperDave isn't active still.

 

My aim would be to mod UM2+ to UM3 as per SuperDave and have one head extruded by direct drive - a modded version of the awesome Flex3Drive https://flex3drive.com/product/g5-flex-extruder/. This would allow 60A flex materials to be printed very fast with PLA supports - something event the Ultimaker S5 struggles with.

 

With a small redesign it should also be possible to have a single Flex3drive direct drive move between extruding each head, as only one head prints at a time.

 

Any one interested in teaming together to support and develop this?

Edited April 16, 2023 by PrintMonkey

[3DukeEngineering 2]

Are you talking about the lifting action of the secondary hot end?

 

it’s a standard function of the UM3 print head, there is a little plastic dock attached to the right side panel of the printer, and a mechanical lever protruding out the print head, the print head moves to a position which engages the lever in the teeth of the dock, then by moving the print head fwd/backwards the lever is actuated which lifts/lowers the second print core. 
 

I imagine it would be quite hard to incorporate the flex drive extruder, as it would likely have interference with hot end 1’s bowden tube (the nozzles are very close to one another). That and the x/y movements of the print head are actually not ideal for a flex drive unless the flex cable can be positioned at 90deg (like the zesty nimble). The orientation of the flex drive’s cable means the filament is constantly advanced/retarded depending on the print heads position. The effect will be minute but print artifices can usually be observed.

 

IMO, doing the MKII conversion is probably a more affordable solution, unless you happen to have access to a full um3 print head and print cores. Or better yet, put the money towards a new printer.

 

 

[ansonl 20]

@PrintMonkey If you aren't set on direct drive, but need the offset nozzles, the DXU mod may work for you. 

 

Edited April 26, 2023 by ansonl