Printed objects are curved in corners

[owen 19]

Hi Joergen

I have had prints that are totally bonded to the tape and the tape remaining stuck to a glass bed and when I peeled off the print it curled up then.

I think if you printed this same thing with 100% fill you would get warping.

[joergen 2]

I have had prints that are totally bonded to the tape and the tape remaining stuck to a glass bed and when I peeled off the print it curled up then. I think if you printed this same thing with 100% fill you would get warping.

I've seen similar effects, but it turned out that the tape came off the glass locally... but yes, more infill can cause more warping... my point originally was to encourage the OP to not give up yet.

[zmaster 0]

Ok, so today i got the PLA90 from OrbiTech and printed the same object again.

It seems that the warping is the same as standard PLA. Here is the comparison:

The first print warped 4-5mm from ground.

The second print warped 3-4mm from ground, i pressed the blue tape to the platform to make it stick better and it proved to be a (little) improvement.

The third print is incomplete and is a previous attempt with the metal gray standard PLA which came with the UM. It has a bit less warp but i'm sure that once completed it would have been like the second print.

One idea would be to use a bigger nozzle so that less layers would be needed and so less warping would occour. But that does not solve the problem completely and also means worse finishing.

I don't know if i should keep the UM or sell it.

[rock500 0]

What is the size, depth and fill of the square we are trying to print without warping ?.

I would like to give it a go as i am using the faberdashery pla and a different platform tape.

[Daid 306]

How about printing with a raft?

[micha 0]

In my experience, you will ever have tension due to the difference in cooling from the bottom, to the higher part.

If you dont want to use a heated bed, to even out the cooling, the only option is to force the part to stay in shape by spreading out the surface the part sticks on. This will not reduce the tension, but it will reduce warp significantly.

If you mill cetrain plastics, as acrylic for example, that hasn't tempered properly, then this tension warps the part like hell, when you take off a few millimeters from the surface.

As Daid said, a raft would help... personally I dislike the rafts, as it takes ages to print them and they are a real waste. That's why I prefer the discs in the corners.

[didero 0]

Hi everyone ! it's been a while !!!

So I finally gave a try to the disc trick advised by Micha. It is for a box I'm trying to make for the snootlab LCD and SD card reader kit I implemented on my UM. See the result below :

Assembly_Manual_-_Heated_Bed_Update_kit_1.1_(1).pdf

So I would say +1 for the disc trick it works quite well !

[joergen 2]

Hi everyone ! it's been a while !!!

So I finally gave a try to the disc trick advised by Micha. It is for a box I'm trying to make for the snootlab LCD and SD card reader kit I implemented on my UM. See the result below :

[attachment=1]DSC06256.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]DSC06258.JPG[/attachment]

So I would say +1 for the disc trick it works quite well !

great that this is working out now... another strategy is actually cooling the print very slowly (similar to what a heated bed would do), by printing multiple copies of the box at once, so the per layer time is quite high, and then turn off the fan completely (unless you are dealing with overhangs and bridges)... the slower cooling seems to keep the plastic more in a thermal equilibrium, and therefore reducing the contraction due to rapid cooling.

[didero 0]

Thanks Joergen for your reply !

So I guess if I don't want (or don't need) to print multiples copies, I could also reduce the print speed at least for the first layers (and also turn off the fan ) ?

[owen 19]

Hi everyone ! it's been a while !!!

So I finally gave a try to the disc trick advised by Micha. It is for a box I'm trying to make for the snootlab LCD and SD card reader kit I implemented on my UM. See the result below :

[attachment=1]DSC06256.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]DSC06258.JPG[/attachment]

So I would say +1 for the disc trick it works quite well !

That's quite a difference. I keep forgetting to try this trick myself but I will have to give it a go now.

[didero 0]

That's quite a difference. I keep forgetting to try this trick myself but I will have to give it a go now.

Sure ! Try it and tell us ! The only inconvenient thing was to remove the circles ! I used an end cutting plier and a nail file (a disposable one), it worked great !