Ultimaker 2 firmware bug (ABS temperature 280 degrees)

[gadgetfreak 7]

Hi,

I'm constantly finding new bugs/improvement points on the Ultimaker 2.

I just noticed that ABS is set to 280C but there seems to be no way to change it (?).

I just reported this bug to the new ScretMarlin firmware github place:

"In the Ultimaker 2 menu structure, you can select ABS as material.

From MATERIAL->SETTINGS->ABS

The temperature is then set to 280C.

 

However, the firmware seems to have a limit (I'm guessing at 260C since that is the official highest in specifications in User Manual) whenever heating the printhead.

So when you do MATERIAL->CHANGE it first brings up:

"Heating printhead for material removal"

as it comes up in temperature (to 260C I guess)

it eventually stops with an:

"ERROR - STOPPED Temp sensor contact support@ultimaker.com"

I'm guessing this is simply about changing the ABS temperature to a lower value?

(It would of course be extremely useful to be able to add other materials and also change temperatures for both ABS and PLA)"

 

 

[gadgetfreak 7]

I'm not really using ABS, but as I use Colorfabb XT a lot which needs at least 225-230C to flow easily in my Ultimaker 1 and 2, I would really like to use the ABS profile.

Even better would be to be able to add new materials for the "Change" procedures.

I can change a temperature setting in "Customize" however that gets overwritten whenever I select PLA again.

Also, I'm not sure the "Customized" temperature setting is used when doing the "change procedure". It's hard to tell as the temperature is not displayed

 

[Daid 306]

The customized temperature is used during the filament change.

The 280C is indeed an oversight, good catch!

 

[geeks 1]

Hello,

 

Does that mean that we will then be forced to change the firmware of the UM2?

 

If this is the case, is that the new machines will be sent already upgraded?

 

In any case, we will be able to make this change by ourselves?

 

So many questions to solve!

 

Thank you for your clarification.

 

Alex.

 

[Daid 306]

You could install this fix yourself. But I will release a new Cura update with new firmware soon. And then you can install this firmware with the "Install default firmware" in Cura. There are some minor bugs in Cura and the firmware that need fixing. This being one of them.

 

[geeks 1]

Ok, I understand!

 

For cons, the firmware, it is in the Ultimaker? No?

 

If this is the case, it would then say:

1 / Put Cura updated in a PC under Windows.

2 / Connect the printer

3 / Start update

 

If I'm not mistaken

 

[Daid 306]

Yes, will be easy. Put printer near computer. Connect printer to computer with USB cable. Start up Cura. Choose "install default Marlin firmware" from the "Machine" menu, watch the magic happen.

 

[geeks 1]

Ok, great

 

[gadgetfreak 7]

Daid, will it be possible to change the max 260 degrees setting manually somehow to have a higher limit?

I have a memory of you saying you tested the new hotend up to 350 degrees (or was I dreaming?) and it would open up more materials to print with...

Thanks

Daniel

 

[Daid 306]

260C is the safe limit for the teflon in there. If you want higher temperatures you need to compile the firmware yourself, and you'll most likely risk damaging the teflon. (I have heated up a printer to 500C, which it survived with minor damage, but that was a safety test to make sure your house dose not burn down)

 

[naz72 0]

The temp setting can be changed under Customize, it's the same menu where you choose ABS and PLA, just scroll down, but before you customize you need to select ABS than go back to the menu & choose customize or you will change the PLA setting.

And yes the default setting is too high for both in my opinion, ABS set @ 280c and I think PLA is 240c.

210-220 is more than enough for PLA.

[naz72 0]

(I have heated up a printer to 500C, which it survived with minor damage, but that was a safety test to make sure your house dose not burn down)

 

Dhaid, at 500C the fans will melt, the frame would expand & the whole room would feel like a volcano erupted, lol

[IRobertI 521]

That tiny heater can't heat up an unlimited amount of matter. If something that tiny could make a change to the room temperature I don't know how I could be soldering at 280C for an hour with my hand just a few centimeters from the tip...

Or how about candles? They easily reach 1000C.

 

[nachokaos 0]

260C is the safe limit for the teflon in there. If you want higher temperatures you need to compile the firmware yourself, and you'll most likely risk damaging the teflon. (I have heated up a printer to 500C, which it survived with minor damage, but that was a safety test to make sure your house dose not burn down)

 

what about print with nylon y really love it, what do you thing about change the limit to 280 or 290 cud be safe in off.

this was going to be one of the first changes on the firmware i want to made.

 

[Daid 306]

what about print with nylon y really love it, what do you thing about change the limit to 280 or 290 cud be safe in off.

this was going to be one of the first changes on the firmware i want to made.

 

You are free to change the firmware if you want. But the 260C is a safety limit we set, as we cannot guarantee that the printer stays operational above those temperatures.

 

[nachokaos 0]

thats quick...!!!!

i think if yours decide to put that limit of course was for some reason...but also its normal to set the limits a bit less then the real ones.

all the ways i dont want to melted my brand new jewell.

thanks Daid!!

 

[gadgetfreak 7]

Daid, did you try to develop an all metal hotend?

Is it in the works?

Would be nice to print Nylon and other hotter materials.

[Daid 306]

We tried, none of the designs worked reliably with PLA. I think the current UM2 design can be used at much higher temperatures if you replace the teflon with some metal bit, but then PLA will jam up.

 

[gadgetfreak 7]

Thanks for sharing

Did you try the E3D hotend or "only" with you own design? The Delta Tower is using this among others.

[Daid 306]

We tried the E3D, with 1.75mm it worked, with 3mm pla it also jammed. And it was too late in the game to change to 1.75 for the UM2. (Hotend was one of the last bits we finished)

 

[nachokaos 0]

Iam allready have the e3d mount on a solidoodle 2 and it change totally the result prints but the original one leaves much to be desired as well.

All the ways prefer to print better with PLA its almoust the 90% of the prints.

[vinay 1]

will the Dual extruder upgrade kit be 2.85mm too?