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saroneh

Build plate heating wires melted

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi

My Ultimaker 2 build plate suddenly stopped heating. I heavily suspect the issue tot be related to the wiring to the main boards. The wires are almost all melted and the same with the connectors to the board.

 

I recently printed approx 4x1hours with a temperature of 70degree celcius. I don't suspect this should be an issue when the software allows me to set the temperature this high. 

Have anyone else experience the same and shouldn't this be prevented by some safety feature? I see a clear risk of the printer self igniting. 

 

I bought the printer for 4 year ago, so I don't think that the warranty is applicable anymore. Can anyone guide me to where I could order the green connectors? 

 

 

 

IMG_4288.jpg

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

It's not about what temperature you set the bed at. What has happened here is that the wires were no longer held firmly in place, this leads to a poor connection with a high resistance. When the printer then powers up the bed that leads to heat being generated in the point where the wires connect to the board and it causes them to melt.

 

You should be able to get a new board from any local Ultimaker reseller.

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi Robert

 

Thank you for the reply!

Would it really be necessary to replace the entire board? 

I was hoping for a fix that didn't cost above $100.

 

Why not just replacing the connectors on the board or using the temp2 outlets? Of course, the later will require recoding the software. 

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Posted (edited) · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi saroneh,

 

This screw terminal consist of two blocks and each have 3 terminals.

 

Here is the manufacturer (Phoenix) P/N: 1888690

Also Digi-Key P/N: 277-6062-ND

 

Here is a direct link:

https://www.digikey.no/product-detail/en/phoenix-contact/1888690/277-6062-ND/2511095?utm_adgroup=Terminal

 

Edit: Digikey is located all around world, there might be one close to your place.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

Edited by Torgeir
Additional info.

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

hı guys

ı have a ultimaker original plus .my nozzle heating system works very well but heated bed not working.nozzle temperature increases but heated bed temperature not increase which is same room temperature.Actually when ı was start to printing.suddenly ultimaker electric cut off and start again.But ultimaker not print the part.

 

what can ı do?could a person help me?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,

 

Welcome in here!

 

So first question, did you see any error or any other message on the printer display?

 

The printer will stop if you have a bed temperature probe failure.

Also if the temperature did not respond/increase it will stop and third if you loose your 24 VDC power.

Ultimaker "logic" can work with only 5 VDC present.

 

Any more observation will help.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

teşekkürler Mr.Torgeir.

 

ilk olarak, ıt is my screen photo.

 

20200412_224147_1586720598090.thumb.jpg.914a47f9f2857017c25372b822221e50.jpg

Secondly, I want to set up bed tempeture and select it.

20200412_224201_1586720597979.thumb.jpg.47cde24dac2a025246d512cba7b65868.jpg

Thirdly, for example ı select this value is 30.Ultiimaker cut off electric and start again.

20200412_224210_1586720597706.thumb.jpg.4aa53a7856ff4c5a1fa20bf1fd89ced3.jpg

20200412_124236.jpg

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Posted (edited) · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,

 

This is an Ultimaker printer that I do not have (UMO+), however I can see (if I'm right) that this main PCB is an UM2 board..

So I'll know this on for sure, -but not the firmware used here. This might be Marlin, -well Marlin for Ultimaker original+, right?

 

I cannot see any error in your display, so I'm thinking this is some sort of power supply failure..

 

Next question; did this happen during printing? Or did it happen when starting the printer, -or a new print?

 

Edit: Sorry, I just realized it happen during start on a new print.

 

Normally, when you switch on the printer, you can hear a clicking sound from inside (below) the printer, this clicking sound is from the 24 VDC power relay. Can you hear this?

 

If this relay do not switch 24 VDC to all the servos and the heaters, your printer would not start printing even if it seems to work OK..

 

Edit: Conclusion, your 24 VDC is working Ok.

Edit: We will need to measure the resistance in your heat mat and your PT100 temp sensor.

 

Please comment here.

 

As it is very late here, I'll need to be back tomorrow.

 

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

 

 

Edited by Torgeir
Essential issue.

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Mr Torgeir

 

I want to upgrade to ultimaker so ı loaded ultimaker cura. I Will load marlin after ı check the ultimaker.

 

I wish it works.

 

Thanks your Best advice 

 

See you later

 

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Posted (edited) · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,


 

I understand that you have upgraded your UMO to UMO+.

Since it seems you have the Marlin firmware for UMO+, I think you should check that you have the right type of heat bed. Your heat bed must be the 24 VDC type.

I know there is a 12 VDC version of this heat bed, this was the first heat bed for UMO.

So if you have got a 12 VDC version, this could be the reason why you printer made a reset when you tried to increase the temperature for the heat bed.

This reset may happened because your power unit cant deliver enough power for such setup, so the voltage will drop and the controller reset!

I just advice you to be sure that your Heat Bed is the right for your printer.

The only way to check this is to measure by using a relatively good multimeter.

The resistance for a 24 VDC heat bed should be not less than 3.29 Ohm.

 

(The 12 VDC heat bed resistance is just 1.36 Ohm. So such bed cannot be used in your setup.)

 

Heat_Bed_12_And_24_VDC.thumb.jpg.b9b7a6b7ca0289a2e3e9155fd0d2bca5.jpg

 

What you see here is two heat bed, one is the 12 VDC version, there is no way to identify them, unless you measure the resistance between point (A and B).

 

 

Good luck

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

Edited by Torgeir
Wrong picture.

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Mr Torgeir,

 

Now ı dont measure this value.But ı tried to change Q1 and Q2  ohm perhaps ıt will work.

 

Thank you my bro.

 

 

 

 

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hello Mr Torgeir,

 

ı changed Q1 and Q2 ohm so ı can ıncrease the temperature value of heated bed but not increased.heated bed temperature is same 20 degree.

 

ı have heated bed which is 3.4 ohm.

 

 

ı dont understand why ı take an ıssue.

 

 

 

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,

 

So you did repair the connection to the heath board circuit.

 

Why did you change Q1 and Q2 ?  Did something happen here?

 

When you try to heath up the heath bed, did the red LED (light emitting diode) light up?

 

This happen when Q1 turns on will make the ground for the bed and the LED.

 

Did you install the safety links, there is two on this board?

 

What firmware version did you install to your new UM2 PCB?

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Mr Torgeir,

 

I thought perhaps Q1 has a fault so cut off the electric.Q1 change to Q2 now we dont have an issue.

 

the red led light up no problem.

 

ı added photo about connection of my electronic card.

 

ı have ultimaker marlin  firmware 

 

thank you for your answering.

 

keep in touch.

 

 

 

20200424_184623.jpg

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,

 

That's great news.

 

Thanks

 

Regards

 

Torgeir

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Mr Torgeir,

 

you understood to me wrongly.Now ı have an issue about not increase the temperature of heated bed.

 

ıts temperature value is same everytime.ıt is 19-20 degree.

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Posted (edited) · Build plate heating wires melted

Hi plasticman,

 

Did not get that one, -so then some more:

 

Ok., if the red light (Led D10) light up, it mean there is power at the two pins for the heath bed. So there is an open connection in your wiring going to the bed, this as there is no current in the bed to heat it up.

3.4 ohm is fine for your heat bed as you are using 24 VDC power supply.

I'm sure you have measured both wires going from the PCB to the Heat bed terminal, right?

Also, if you measure the resistance from the two wires at the PCB (this time not connected to PCB) you will read 3.4 ohm, right?

If all of the above is right, your failure might be in the "spring clamp" connector, those connectors normally work ok., but can also fail badly..

Make sure this clamping contacts are in good condition, I can see some marking on them, any problem here?.. 

So check this carefully.

If you look at the clamp connectors, it appear not to be very much clamped, are you sure that the cable is on the right side of the clamp hole? Look at the two for the nozzle, they are a little bit into the housing.

On the two heat bed connections the should be a bit more into the housing, as this cable is bigger.

 

Have a look at the second nozzle, not in use, try to press one of them and look into the connector hole, then you will see where the cable should go.

 

Edit:

You know that, before you insert the wire you have to press down the amber square then the wire and then release the pressure. Now you will have a good connection.

 

Thanks

 

Torgeir

Edited by Torgeir
Maybe this help..

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Posted · Build plate heating wires melted

Mr Torgeir,

 

Before fix the cables and i saw the voltage.but connected the cable the voltage decreased.this value is zero.ı think probably my connector has a fault.

 

ı will change and try again.

 

thank you.

 

see you later

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