Did you read all the posts above? Did you add oil? Bed should be at 60C. If it still doesn't stick well to bed move the bed closer to the nozzle by turning the 3 leveling screws an equal amount.
Use oil. I think I said this above somewhere but take some thin oil like sewing machine oil or 3-in-one oil (any petroleum oil). Not wd40! Put one drop near the end of the filament before inserting and then slide that through the bowden in and out a few times until you can see small amoutns of oil all along the bowden. Then add one drop of oil per meter as the filament prints. I put the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unwind the filament until the loop almost touches the floor, then add a drop of oil. Every 30 minutes or so I check back on it and uncoil more filament and add more oil.
Use oil then add a drop of oil.and add more oil.
I use Iroberti's filament cleaner with a bit of oil on it (in the UK 3in1 dripping oil) which smears a thin layer of oil on the whole printer.
Not too much oil though or it can 'drip' so really really thin.
hi guys.
Ill try and find the STL files for my Extruder and add it to thingiverse.
But it only works with the old ultimaker 2.
Ian
I have printed some models with ninjaflex on my UM2. Yesterday i printed a model of a lysozyme molecule, which is probably the most complex printing, since the shape needs a lot of support due to overhang, and the shape is so organic and with tiny details.
I print at 220-235 °C depending on the model type and sice, 50 °C bed, from 5-10 mm/s, 0.1 mm layers. 0.8 walls and 0.6 top/bottom.
I have swapped the bowden tube with a 1 mm wider ID tube, and don't use any oil.
The feeder is Roberts modified feeder.
Retraction is a big no-go since any clogs caused by the retraction will just stop the material. If the temperature is too high, the material will carbonize in the hotend and cause a clog, so i would recommend you try to start at 220 °C and go as slow as possible.
You should do the atomic method with PLA for cleaning the hotend until the PLA material comes out completely clean, and change the PTFE coupler for a new one before starting.
If you begin to clog up in the start, just stop and do the atomic method again until you get a smooth start.
Other than that, just go slow and at as low a temperature as possible.
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Edel 5
OK i also need you help i have bad problems with ninja
Printing Temperatur 220 - Bed Temp 40 ------- nothing
Printing Temperatur 230 - Bed Temp 40 ------- nothing
Printing Temperatur 235 - Bed Temp 40 ------- no sticking
Printing Temperatur 235 - Bed Temp 45 ------- stinking of frist layer but the scound does not stick to the frist
240 and Bed 50 the some
does someone has advice :(:(
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