Nozzle stuck, broken, what happened?

[gauthier 0]

I got a nozzle stuck in my Ultimaker 2+'s Olsson block. 

 

I broke my nozzle tool trying to remove it. 

 

I then wore off the hex shape of the nozzle with a wrench. Still stuck.

 

I decided the nozzle was dispensable and tried with violence to get it out of the heater block.

 

The nozzle head came off, but the tail remained in the block.

 

Looking closely at the remains and the nozzle hole in the heating block, I'm still not sure how the nozzle could get stuck this hard.

 

Do you see anything strange with these? I mean the nozzle was quite worn out, but so much that the head would come off? Did I do something wrong/didn't do something I should have done?

 

As for replacement, I found this 3D solex block, I'm not sure if I should get that instead of the standard Olsson block. What would be your recommendation?

 

( <- I don't know why this picture shows up once more in my post. I can't seem to be able to remove it.)

Edited August 5, 2020 by gauthier

[UlrichC-DE 114]

In practice, the original Ultimaker Olsson block would be the better option.

Simply buy and convert. Without tinkering.

 

Although I once converted my house to the solex. It's nice and polished and chrome-plated. (but also not more)

At that time I was also allowed to change the heating elements and sensor on the Solex. For the heat coupling I had designed a part for myself that fits. That was a while ago, but I am afraid that it is still an extensive rebuilding today.

Solex is not Ultimaker quality. Although they have good ideas, they are negligent in their implementation.

[gauthier 0]

Do you mean that the solex isn't a pop-in replacement, but requires additional modifications? 

[gr5 2,234]

It's too bad you went this route of doing more force.

 

All you had to do was heat the nozzle to 200C (or probably 150C would be enough) to get it out.  What happens is some plastic can get in the threads and hardens in there like loc-tite.

 

Anyway at this point you can either get a new Olsson block or you can try to get that piece of nozzle out.  I'd take it out while hot (at 200C).  I'd use a thread extractor.  Search for "thread extractor" on the internet.  I don't know what size is best so I'd get a few.  But if you want this working again quickly just buy a new Olsson block.

 

As far as the Ruby nozzles are concerned, Ulrich is talking about the 3dsolex product.  It's just as good (better?) than the Olsson ruby and it costs less and is MUCH stronger because of the way it is built.  The Olsson Ruby can dissentegrate at 2-3Nm if I remember right.  The 3dsolex won't break until somewhere around 4-6Nm of torque.  It's because the Olsson ruby is double walled in the threaded region - the inner cylinder holds the ruby in place.  3DSolex went a completely different route to hold the ruby in place.

 

disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex rubies (aka Everlast) in my store - thegr5store.com

[gauthier 0]

Oh, but the nozzle didn't buldge either when it was at 210 degrees! I didn't try as hard (only with the nozzle tool, and a little with the wrench) though. I suppose I might have had better luck if warm, I'll never now. 

 

Anyway, I have thread extractors on the way already, I'll make sure to heat the block before the next attempt. 

 

When you mention ruby, do you mean the nozzle? This is (was) a brass only nozzle. I have no intention to get a ruby nozzle, only a new heating block. 

[gr5 2,234]

Oh!  Well that looked like an Olsson ruby wrench in the photo.  Yeah brass nozzles are cheap.  You can get a chinese olsson block with 4 nozzles for about $20.

 

If you couldn't get that nozzle out while hot with 4Nm torque (brass nozzles break around 4 to 6 Nm) - then I would just give up now.  That sucker is in there good - I have no idea how that is possible (to get a nozzle that stuck in there).

 

Where you printing ABS?  Unlike PLA, ABS can turn in to a gummy gunk that is REALLY hard to clean up in threads.  This happens at lowish temps (around 240C but it only takes 5 or 10 minutes and faster at even higher temps).  Whereas PLA at normal printing temps (<220C) will never do this.  Even at 240C for 10 minutes, PLA won't gum up like ABS does.

[UlrichC-DE 114]

I was just trying to explain that 3DSolex does not always fit.

 

My conversion to 3DSolex was three years ago. Since then I print with steel nozzles because I can't use brass. (Ultimaker doesn't have steel nozzles until today)
Back then, 3 years ago, I only needed a lathe to adjust the Ultimaker spacer ring to the Solex size. (Maybe it was also because I really rebuilt every part from end to end.)

 

You have to be a product expert like maybe @gr5 to make sure that everything fits afterwards.

 

The right questions would be:
Does the 3DSolex (version 3?) fit into the UM2+ without any modifications to Ultimaker parts?
Will the Ultimaker nozzles fit into the 3DSolex afterwards?
Do I have to replace other parts when I buy the 3DSolex (heating cartridge, sensor, PTFE coupling, insulator, spacer ring)?
And the most important. Does the 3dSolex affect the printer's properties. Do I have to print differently?
(For my old printer, I would answer the questions differently than YES. But after all, it's not the year 2017 anymore)

 

With Ultimaker spare parts it is different. What is defective is simply replaced.
The functionality and quality is maintained. Everything fits together.

[gauthier 0]

You both make sense. 

 

Is the Olsson nozzle tool the ruby wrench? I didn't know it was called ruby. I bought it separately, still using the stock nozzles that came with the printer. 

 

I'll get the real Olsson block as replacement part, thanks for the hint. 

[UlrichC-DE 114]

Probably "ruby wrench" is a tool that is also supplied with the ruby nozzles.

 

Generally to the ruby nozzles.
If you like to print abrasive materials, you can get such nozzles.
Normal brass nozzles grind out fast with abrasive material.
The nozzles have a gemstone pressed into the tip.

 

I bought the 3DSolex Ruby and Sapphire nozzle for the UM2+ for testing purposes. (But that is another story.)
Just this much: I only use the CC red 0.6 from Ultimaker as ruby nozzle. I simply prefer printing to screwing.

 

Disclaimer: I don't work for Ultimaker and don't have a shop. I only print with it daily.

[gauthier 0]

So, I purchased a new heater, it was on my desk 20 hours after the transaction 😮 That's quick.

 

However, I cannot screw the new heater onto the hot end isolator. Looking closely, it seems that the threading is the issue.

 

The new heater is on the left, the threading has the correct spacing but it thicker. This is tiresome.

Edited August 11, 2020 by gauthier

[UlrichC-DE 114]

The thread is not cut deep enough. The threads are nowadays milled or turned. This can happen quickly.

 

Is this an original Olsson block from the land of smiles or that of original Ultimaker?

[gauthier 0]

10 hours ago, UlrichC-DE said:

Is this an original Olsson block from the land of smiles or that of original Ultimaker?

 

This is an Olsson block from the land of fjords (Norway). I'm not sure where they manufacture though. I've got a threading tool, I'll get to work on it right now.

[gauthier 0]

The threading tool did not remove anything from the block! Maybe it's the original piece that is threaded too tight? (comparing to standard).

 

The manufacturer (3D Solex) recommended through their retailer that I'd force the hot end isolator on the new block. I was afraid that I'd break the isolator, but I hadn't many other things to try.

 

After an hour, I could screw the two together. The thread looks more like the original now.

Edited August 12, 2020 by gauthier

[UlrichC-DE 114]

Actually, that was a stupid question I asked. Somehow everything comes in CN these days. The correct idea is that there is one factory that produces for different manufacturers.

 

But I am glad that it worked somehow.