Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
trevox

Printing with XT

Recommended Posts

Hi!

Me and my buddy have had our ultimaker working for a week now, and it's really hard to quit printing with it because there are tons of things we want to do with it!

The problem we have now is with the green transparent xt filament we are testing. It starts out fine, then it shoots out too much material on the surface which seems to "crack". We are printing straight on non-heated glass.

The general settings we have are:

speed=50

temp=234

layer height=0.1

See pic here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u315au57mdr80vo/bild.JPG

Why is this? We have tried to level the bed properly, but this thing happened 3 times in a row.

thanks!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Trevox,

I noticed you are based in Stockholm.

We (3DVerkstan) are the official Colorfabb resellers in Sweden and I'd like to help you if possible.

The XT is not available in green yet, might you have the ordinary transparent green?

It sounds/looks like there might be underextrusion if you have the nozzle a little to close, but that's just a theory.

Please give me a call on +46 708 980 985 and I'll see how I can help you.

Cheers,

Daniel

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like your bed is warped. You have a really thin area in the middle there where pressure is building up, further up in the print it looks like there's more room under the nozzle and all that built up pressure is squirting out excess plastic.

What is your first layer height?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Trevox,

I noticed you are based in Stockholm.

We (3DVerkstan) are the official Colorfabb resellers in Sweden and I'd like to help you if possible.

The XT is not available in green yet, might you have the ordinary transparent green?

It sounds/looks like there might be underextrusion if you have the nozzle a little to close, but that's just a theory.

Please give me a call on +46 708 980 985 and I'll see how I can help you.

Cheers,

Daniel

 

Haha, funny that you replied Daniel - we were at 3DVerkstan a couple of days ago and got this sample of transparent green from you. :) It's a small 3d world. Thanks, we'll call you.

But it makes sense if its PLA/PHA and not XT, the temperature we set is way too high, isn't it?

 

It looks like your bed is warped. You have a really thin area in the middle there where pressure is building up, further up in the print it looks like there's more room under the nozzle and all that built up pressure is squirting out excess plastic.

What is your first layer height?

 

We have successfully printed with blue pla and Laybrick, so it would be weird if its warped.. but we'll try to level the bed again. First layer height was 0.3 mm.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What Robert is writing seems plausible. Glass usually is very flat but if this is a brand new standard Ultimaker it is not glass, but acrylic plastic. And they can be bent.

Furthermore you should avoid printing directly on unheated beds, you can use painters tape like 3M 2090 instead.

We might have a spare acrylic bed if you are in a hurry...we do not yet carry Ultimaker spare parts for purchase, but will soon since we are now official Swedish Ultimaker resellers :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Robert is correct. It is very common for acrylic plate to be warped a little bit. You have a few options:

1) If you don't care how pretty the bottom layer is you can either ignore what is happening or you can just lower the bed a little.

2) You could purchase a piece of glass - have it cut smaller than the area where the 4 leveling screws are. Any glass store will do this very inexpensively. Get very thick glass if you can - something like 6mm if possible. Then clip the glass to the acrylic with paper clips. You can add blue tape or print directly on glass. When printing directly on glass the first layer should be 20C hotter than normal and then you can lower the temp after the first layer. Alternatively heat the glass a little with a hair dryer just before starting the print. You only need to heat to about 30C. Coating the glass with glue stick or hairspray also helps parts stick to glass.

Experiments on printing on COLD glass are here:

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy