Help with large print that just won't work.

[Graham-becs 0]

Hello from a complete newbie. I have a Creality 10S pro V2 and other than a single print (via Ultimaker) of my model I can't get anything to work.

 

I've tried both PETG and ABS using various suggested settings and recently changed slicer software to Ultimaker from manufacturers. Tried with Brim and Skirt and various temperatures. spent forever levelling bed to approx. 0.009 between all 4 corners. 1 Issue is bed in middle is 0.025 - 0.035 higher than rest.

 

I've even printed this face down, but the words were lost and a small 0.5 recess all around inner section was totally stuck to support i couldn't tell difference.

 

Pictures show latest print in PETG (i'm just trying again with the PLA that came with printer). The prints just seam to warp off the bed after about 30-40%, I've even tried taping them down as in the last print just so I can try get something out and check measurements etc.

 

Is there anyone can help me as I've been on this for weeks now and ready to pack it all in and throw either myself or machine out of the window.

Lid_Mk2V12 med.gcode

[gr5 2,167]

It's hard not to get warping without an enclosed chamber to get the air temp up to 35C.  But it's possible.  People were printing ABS long before heated beds.

 

Does your printer have a heated bed?  If not I'd consider giving up now.

 

Know that PETG is a much easier material to print.  I assume you don't like PLA because of temperature reasons?  ABS is probably the worst material for 3d printing when you look at it's physical properties versus other materials that don't smell so bad and are stronger and tougher.

 

So stick with the PETG.

 

Put a little piece of PETG on your heated bed with a blanket over it and try to find where it starts to get soft (like clay).  When it is "soft" and you bend it and let go it will stay in the new position.  Below a certain temp if you bend it and let go it will go back.  You want the heated bed above that temperature.  About 5C hotter.  I forget but I think for PETG that is around 80C but I'm not sure.  Maybe it's 70C?

 

And squish - you need to squish the first layer really well to get it to stick.  And fan - you want very little fan - play with fan settings until you find a setting where it sounds like about 1/3 as loud.  That's a good fan speed.  It's different for every printer.

 

I talk about more details and show you how much to squish and why prints warp off the bed and the history of things to try (e.g. raft) in my video here.  It's a bit long but I expect it will save you lots of time:

 

 

[gr5 2,167]

Assuming you do have a heated bed (I looked up your printer on google but couldn't tell) then consider getting a chamber for your printer.  Or stick with easier plastics like PLA.

[Mari 36]

The Creality CR-10S Pro has a heated bed, so that should be no problem... PETG & Glass Bed are not the best combination because PETG can stick so good to the bed that it will damage it! Friend of my experienced that with his Ender 3 Pro (changed from flex mat to glass bed, I warned him to be cautious)...

 

I recently ordered a roll of PETG, my first print with it was a CHEP Calibration Cube... Print temperature 235 degrees, bed temperature 50 degrees, print speed aprox. 50mm/s, still trying out the best fan-speed... (used 100%, but my friend told me 60% is better). Must say I use lockbuild on a flex steel plate on my Ender 3 Pro, and everything sticks-like-hell to it!

 

If I'm afraid of object warping I use a brim to get better adhesion to the printbed....

 

 

[gr5 2,167]

@Graham-becs did you use a brim?  I thought you did but now I'm thinking not.

@Mari yeah I have missing glass on both sides of all 5 of the glass of my most commonly used printers.  But for the most part the missing slivers are only paper thin.  Most of those were from PETG or CPE.  I'd say one print in 50 cause that problem (but pretty much never PLA - another reason to love PLA).

[geert_2 557]

For PET, I need to heat the glass bed up to 80...90°C, for best bonding. And turn fan off or very low if you do not have too big overhangs. (You can't turn it off with big overhangs, otherwise they don't print well: the string snaps and curls up into a ball, instead of making a bridge. At least with the PET that I have.)

 

I also had PET tearing a part out of the glass once, when I was using glue. So now I don't use glue anymore, but I wipe the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water prior to printing. For PLA, this greatly increases bonding, but for PET it seems to slightly reduce it, so no damage anymore.

 

But my parts are mostly long and flat, not very much height.

 

Never printed with ABS, except for a quick try, so no suggestions here.

 

If you would print in PLA, be sure not to leave it in your car in the sun, even not in spring or autumn. It won't warp during printing, but it will warp in a car in the sun. Don't ask how I know.   :-)

 

[Graham-becs 0]

Thanks for all the help everyone. 

 

I finally manged to get a single unit to print in PLA and have now just received a 1kg roll of it (instead of the 200g supplied with printer). The manufacturer has also finally sent me some settings to use with PETG that I will try later this week.

 

I've also now ordered some 3DLAC that's arriving Wednesday, so will try again with that.

 

Now I just need to find how to get a better quality last layer as that's the top flat surface that's visible.

 

P.s. The bed is Heated and is metal plate with mat stuck on top.